First of all the printer is tough as hell and even though it makes that horrible sound it should be fine. I think everyone has experienced this at least once.
Also the stepper motors work fine at 60-70C. Even when they aren't moving, if they are powered, they get hot. I've been told that they get equally hot whether they move or not. I'm a little skeptical but I *do* believe they get almost as hot.
What should have "given way" was the stepper itself, but occasionally the belt will skip a tooth. You should check that both sides of the long belts are equally tight. If not it might be a good idea (but doesn't matter that much) to loosen the 2 pulleys for that belt so that the tension can equalize but if you do this make sure both long belts are in the same position such that the metal rods going through the head are perpendicular.
Be aware that if you cut power it's fine to push the print head around manually - in fact a good habit for you to do. Same is true with feeder - you can just pull the filament out when the feeder power is off (which is almost always when not printing). Of course if the filament is in the head and the head is cold it won't come out but if you are half way through a "feed filament" you can pull it out to start over, or push it all the way into the head manually also.
The most troubling thing is your limit switch issue. I would fix that when you get some time. I would hook up pronterface to the UM2 through a USB to a laptop or desktop and play with those switches. See if they are stuck on or stuck off. I would push them dozens of times and see if maybe the cabling is pinched, broken, or shorting out somewhere - particularly near those LED power wires and also particularly sometimes the motor covers (those white metel covers in the corners which can come off by removing only one screw) are pinching the endstop/limit switch wiring and shorting it out.
Or maybe the limit switch is never closing - maybe nothing is reaching it and you simply need to slide one of the smaller rods over a bit or adjust the position of the limit switch by a mm or two.
Thank gr5 for your fast and detailled answer, you really helped me a lot! I did not dare to print again since the problem occured, awaiting the comunity's opignion. I was thinking that this issue was way more serious (I knew that the printer was strong and well build, but it's an incredibly precise machine, I tought that this incident would have critically affected the mecanism...).
It's good to know that those parts (the feeder and print head) can be moved manually when powered
I will try to find out what's going on with those switches (thanks for telling me the critical places)
All your tips are really helpful (I will check every point you mentionned, but the struggle seems to come from the switches). it's good to see that we're not all alone with this - complex- product
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gr5 2,071
First of all the printer is tough as hell and even though it makes that horrible sound it should be fine. I think everyone has experienced this at least once.
Also the stepper motors work fine at 60-70C. Even when they aren't moving, if they are powered, they get hot. I've been told that they get equally hot whether they move or not. I'm a little skeptical but I *do* believe they get almost as hot.
What should have "given way" was the stepper itself, but occasionally the belt will skip a tooth. You should check that both sides of the long belts are equally tight. If not it might be a good idea (but doesn't matter that much) to loosen the 2 pulleys for that belt so that the tension can equalize but if you do this make sure both long belts are in the same position such that the metal rods going through the head are perpendicular.
Be aware that if you cut power it's fine to push the print head around manually - in fact a good habit for you to do. Same is true with feeder - you can just pull the filament out when the feeder power is off (which is almost always when not printing). Of course if the filament is in the head and the head is cold it won't come out but if you are half way through a "feed filament" you can pull it out to start over, or push it all the way into the head manually also.
The most troubling thing is your limit switch issue. I would fix that when you get some time. I would hook up pronterface to the UM2 through a USB to a laptop or desktop and play with those switches. See if they are stuck on or stuck off. I would push them dozens of times and see if maybe the cabling is pinched, broken, or shorting out somewhere - particularly near those LED power wires and also particularly sometimes the motor covers (those white metel covers in the corners which can come off by removing only one screw) are pinching the endstop/limit switch wiring and shorting it out.
Or maybe the limit switch is never closing - maybe nothing is reaching it and you simply need to slide one of the smaller rods over a bit or adjust the position of the limit switch by a mm or two.
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