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Can't print with ABS 3mm Original +

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Hello, guys. Hope you're all having a great day!

I have an Ultimaker Original + which was working pretty well with PLA. I ended off a whole wheel of this filament.

Now that I'm trying to print with ABS, it just doesn't work.

I've tried changing temperature and cleaning the nozzle, but i can't make it work.

It would be so nice if someone can help me, thank you so much!

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You have to give us more information, instead of "it doesn't work" :)

Post some images of the problem, your settings and speeds, and brand filement

Place of birth, printing location, temperature outside, inside, humidity, shoe size, name of girlfriend, brand smartphone..... :)

Edited by Guest
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Hahahaha.

Oh, well, I've tried with 230, no fan, 110º temperature, 40 mm/s speed and 107% flow. And the filament is coming very, very, very slow... i don't even think that can call "coming". The feeder is doing his job. Even when i tried to feed it manual, stills going out very, very, very slow.

Then, i changed to 250 with all the same settings, didn't work neither.

Changed to 260 thinking of temperature sensor fail... didn't work neither.

I cleaned the nozzle too, i don't know what else i can do with the original stuff of the printer.

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Perhaps the filament isn't 2.85mm - try measureing it with a micrometer. If the filament is 3.0mm it's probably clogged in the bowden tube. Your nozzle may be clogged - you might want to stick some kind of thin metal thing in there to clean it out.

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I have cleaned and reassembled about twice FAN testing with 25% and lowering the temperature to 245 ° C, it did not work either.

If the filament outside 2.85mm rather than 3.00mm, can I do something about it with the original stuff or will I need something extra?

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Another possibility is there may be dust in the nozzle - see if PLA still works. If not you probably have a nozzle clog.

There are many techniques for cleaning the nozzle - "atomic pull" or "cold pull" is the most popular. A second method involves using a hypodermic or acupuncture needle going up into the nozzle. A third method involves burning everything out:

Consider unscrewing it (while at 180C - yes that is hot enough for ABS to unscrew) and then burn out everything in there with a gas flame. Be careful not to melt the brass but there is a large margin (100C?) between burning all the ABS and PLA and the temperature where brass melts. Just be careful to not go any hotter than "burn temp'. After burning clean everything out with a toothpick while still hot. Let it cool a bit and try sending some PLA through it to make sure it isn't clogged anymore.

You can buy new nozzles also - they cost between $5 and $15 on ebay and other places.

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There was dust in the nozzle, we removed it and it started to work again.

After that, we try to print again and the figures didn't stick at the hot bed, so we put some glue and it didn't work neither. After it, we set the bed temperature at 70°C, and it started to have good adhesion but the nozzle suddenly stopped printing. The nozzle temperature was at 250°C. Flow at 100%, print velocity at 50 and travel velocity at 150 and Fan at 127%.

What could it be?

It's pretty hard working with ABS and it's all we have for now

Edited by Guest

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ABS is definitely hard!! But if you are an expert at ABS and switch to PLA then you will think *that* is hard.

First of all try to keep all dust off the filament - make sure the room is somewhat clean that you print in.

Also if you print at 250C it's easy to get a clog even with no dust - ABS cooks/bakes somewhat quickly around 250 or 255C (your temp sensor can be off by 5 degrees either way also). So you need to print fast (e.g. .2mm layers will help you keep the volume up).

Your issue with sticking to the bed is confusing - if you mean while it's putting down the very first layer it is not sticking? In that case your glass is too far from the nozzle. Just rotate the 3 leveling screws about 1/2 turn the first time. 1/4 turn each time after that until the bottom layer is squished.

If you mean after about 10 layers it starts to peel off the bed then you should make your glue much thinner (water it down and let it dry) and make sure you use the brim feature and also make sure the bottom layer is squished into the glass nicely like in my previous paragraph.

Regarding bed temp for ABS - hotter is better. 110C is ideal if you can get it that hot. I have to cover the front and put a box on top to get up to 110C. This also helps with warping issues. 100C is hot enough but 70c is definitely not!

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