You want a little more room than the spool diameter... just look at the original drawing of um2 (the .step file in github) and take the measurement from that....
Just curious. Did you draw the extended files in 2.5D (is that the proper term?) So holes not cut all the way through the material like on the real um2 ... or did you adjust the drawings to 2d?
minivipers 25
Process is
1) download github's "ultimaker 2" STL files
2) opened in 3ds max and by selecting edges of sides, i send it to autocad as 2d (dxf files)
3) I put ultimaker 2 extended picture into autocad. I aligned with the "ultimaker 2" drawings and find the measurements (approximately) ( UM² extended is 10 cm longer than UM²)
4 I import dxf files to CNC router program and I adjust the blade thickness. CNC process is crucial. You have to know CNC router well ( for example when Plexiglass is cutting, direction of the mill is crucial etc...
Edited by Guest- 1
minivipers 25
Looks real nice in wood!
i'm about to make my frame next week for ultimaker 2, I see that you used plexiglass for the sides, I will make mine form mdf, is that wrong?
minivipers 25
i'm about to make my frame next week for ultimaker 2, I see that you used plexiglass for the sides, I will make mine form mdf, is that wrong?
MDF is not rigid material. You can use but i suggest you to use plywood. plexiglass or perpex is durable than mdf...
- 1
minivipers 25
this is the place a hobbyist ultimaker² builder suggested me to buy 6mm dibond but it cost a lot for clone at least 100 euros for a frame...plywood is cheap...
I want to paint it now, what color should I use ? Black or White?
I had a bad day :(
I almost finish my printer, but the hotbed temperature sensor didn't work... and I can't do anything until I change the termisor, if anyone know where I can get a thermistor for the ultimaker 2 hotbed, let me know
The temp sensor of the um2 bed is a pt100. Just like in the hot end (without the housing). Just Google. You can buy them in many places...
- 4 weeks later...
You'll need a cartridge sensor that fits into the hotend. Not any PT100 sensor will do. While they all measure temperature the same way, you still need one in the correct shape and size.
https://shop.ultimaker.com/product/62/PT100-B-sensor
The original one is very expensive. You might find a compatible part (for around 25$ - estimate) and also the correct connectors on Mouser, but you'll need to put the wiring together yourself.
E3D-online.com & 3Dsolex.com both sell the PT100 complete with connector.
And if you need other stuff, at Ultimaker.com it's also part of the hot-end pack these days
Edited by Guest
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minivipers 25
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minivipers 25
If someone who needs the original "ultimaker 2" or "ultimaker 2 extended" frame in a 6mm aleminum dibond, please send me materials and i will manufacture and send you back free.
I am unable to find 6mm dibond in cyprus.therefore, if you just send a additional frame material for me i will do yours free of charge
If someone's original frame also broken...send me front panel or any frame part and i will do it...This is the Ultimaker friendship ( note: after I have 2 frame i will not ask additional dibond and continue to make it free
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ultiarjan 1,223
Just one tip... if you make the extended I would advice to place the spool holder lower (from the bottom just as low as on the um2) for more straight fillament going into the feeder....
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minivipers 25
it should be adjusted according to the diameter of spool circle...do you know the diameter of it???
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