Jump to content
esteban-pacheco

Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD,

Recommended Posts

Posted · Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD,

I've had similar issues with "roofing" and here's my solution.

1. Get a new coupler.. well actually get a bag of them. My underextrusion issues dissappear once I change a new coupler... The old ones are always hollowed out from inside and burned.

2. For difficult surface closings I drop down the temperature to a miniumin where it still comes out nicely and put fans to 100%. I also lower the build plate a bit manually on the fly. This way the nozzle doesn't travel against the uneven surface and end up scraping the previous layer and destroying the new one. Rather it cools down on top nicely as a string which then gives a great support for the next layers. On 0.1 I usually do 0.8 tops and bottoms. For a nice finnish I rise the buildplate again (for last 2 layers ) to get a really nice "squeezed" surface.

I know its lots to do but that's often the only way to get good surface quality on UM2.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD,

Hey ! i got a Coupler a few months ago! come on, who will be buy a car that you Need to Change the tires each 400 km? is there a way to buy a bag of em? to be sincere, i never managed to print smth that you can Show the Clients above 35 mm/s... i think the ultimaker has to be quicker....

is there a way to get nice surface result with out so much human influence?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD,

you should be able to print at up to 70mm/s no problem. I printed a lot like this and it looks fine if you're no gonna paint it. but it doesnt work with my acetone method as it creates bizzare subtle surface patterns due to the speed so i dont bother anymore and do everything at 35, mind you with my new method of loading the filament i might actually give it a go again!!! If you want to print at 70mm.s then crank up the temp to 230 thats it! Go for it. But dont expect the overhangs to look any nicer.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD,

To improve overhangs if you need more speed print on cold plate with bluetape. Or focus an airconditioner with a tube to the fans (I did this for a weird print job it worked but it was too much the trouble).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD,

I just split the model, as i have a lot of modelling experience, joining the halves is not really a problem. But more of a time thing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD,

This is why i dont print off the roll anymore......may want to double check youre nozzle too. but more likely the snagging issue.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD,

7, 8, 9, look good though, so i doubt its a faulty nozzle. blocked i reckon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD,

I could print with abs just fine with a blocked nozzle, but NOT PLA. Thats the day i realized i needed to do the atomic method properly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD,

mailto:info@cp3d.co.uk

@Fracfalco:

A) im trying that right now, ill let the printer working over night and see what happens.

b) about the file, how can i share it?

C) you say that cura cannot coupe with surfaces???? so all this issues im having with the bottom top (surfaces) is an software issue?

 

Been away for a few days - doesn't seem like the problem is solved or even close?

Sorry to revisit if all this has been tried but just checking...

So the following didn't improve anything,

1. 26% infill

2. Changing filament

3. Using a different version of Cura.

In my experience Cura (so far) is okay at fine resolution, but not great at 2.0 and above. Z scarring, blobbing, top layer often under extruded and the z wall ridges you have shown are all common - for me anyway. And judging by the multiple posts here, for others also. I've experimented with other slicers to see if its hardware or software and S3D can improve certain aspects so i guesstimate its a slicer issue, but i appreciate there are challenges to the UM Bowden/drive configuration that can also cause issue.

I use Makerware slicer at work on a MB Rep 2 and that can produce better infill, surface results, at 0.2 - 0.3mm, but i struggle with it at .2 and higher - i just wish i could test Makerware on my UM2!

I still didn't see if you had uploaded your file for others to test and show it can be printed?

Or please send me the file via email: info.co.uk

Can you do that please, i would love to test it on my UM2 - there is a way to upload and make available files - i believe (but never done it myself).

keep me posted please

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...