Printing Issue - Under-extrusion

[danilius 117]

Sander, a wiki is definitely the way forward, if the input comes from the community as well as Ultimaker. So many of these questions are repeated in so many different parts of the forum which means valuable answers scattered all over the show, and one central place for answering a question like "how do I keep my prints sticking to the plate" would allow users to find 10 different solutions in one place. 10 solutions are great. All in one place - awesome.

Currently Ultimaker are probably the best people to host such a wiki. I am quite happy to host the wiki, but I'm just one user. There is no real continuity in that, responsibility and oversight, prevention of spam etc.

Another great tool would be a wizard to help anyone in these forums who would like to assist in triaging the problem. In this way the specific issue can be guessed at by the wizard before we even look at the problem. So before w try to solve the issue, the wizard eliminates as many variable as possible. It will also encourage the user to enter as much info as possible.

[cloakfiend 990]

This is how i print now, 7 mins not too bad, i repeat myself a bit, but it sheds light on a few issues people may have with the PFTE coupler. Now ill admit i dont really know if im right in saying whats actually wrong but doing things this way bypasses any problems i would normally have kicking off a print with my visibly deformed coupler.

 

Edited June 23, 2015 by Guest

[danilius 117]

I had this issue. Ultimaker GB replaced the coupler (actually sent me a whole nozzle kit) and I took 20 minutes to replace the coupler with my heart in my mouth.

Fortunately although it is really fiddly, I succeeded without any mishap, and all your problems disappear. So I urge you to do likewise!

[cloakfiend 990]

I received my new PFTE coupler yesterday! Yay! ( lucky you though! It would have been nice if i got a whole nozzle kit though!)  but to tell you the truth, i will carry on using my method to print for the following reasons:

1: I do an atomic pull before each print anyway so the bowden tube is already off.

2: If the prints are still looking good, then why replace what is not causing visible problems to my print. (i.e. if its not broken why fix it even though its on its way to being broken)

3: It doesn't take any longer doing it my way time wise as opposed to everything working as it should as the bed and head have to heat up anyway.

4: I can get more prints out of my printer without replaceing parts so often compared to swapping something out when it has not yet completely failed. (save a few bucks that coud be spend on a roll of filament or a few pints, lol.

5: Its not that big a deal (not difficult at all to do once you've done it a few times) and Its probably actually quicker and as you are in control of the temps you are likely to get the result you want as opposed to hoping filament will come out of the nozzle. As the nozzle is too hot at the start it will mean the first layer will be stuck nicely to the base.

6: This method works flawlessly even with the damaged PFTE coupler so why not get the most out of it as long as I am not causing damage to other parts?

This is in my opinion the beauty of open source, feel free to disagree though....

Edited June 23, 2015 by Guest

[gr5 1,843]

By the way - I don't remove the bowden to do atomic pull anymore. I just pull it out through the feeder. When the feeder power is off (most of the time when you aren't printing) it's easy to just pull it out. The extra resistance is small.

[cloakfiend 990]

What do you mean? the feeder is miles away.

hmmm... so then you heat up the nozzle, move material in and then lower the temps, and then pull it out from all the way at the back?

Interesting, I admit i do like looking down into the nozzle to check if its clear, but print regardless of whether its clear or not, as once the main block is gone, then it doesn't really matter.

I don't mind doing the direct method. I kind of enjoy it and have no other option at the moment. Besides there is a certain satisfaction in cleaning the nozzle, however retarded it may seem, lol.

[swordriff 119]

I just change the nozzle

[gr5 1,843]

What do you mean? the feeder is miles away.

hmmm... so then you heat up the nozzle, move material in and then lower the temps, and then pull it out from all the way at the back?

 

Yes.  Well, I heat to 180C, when it gets there push the material in using my fingers just under the feeder, then lower to 90C and leave for 5 minutes.  Come back and pull it out - hard.  If it's easy then it was too warm and I don't get a good "pull".  The tip should be perfectly shaped like the inside of the nozzle including the thin .4mm channel.

Then if I change color there is zero mixing of colors.

Edited June 23, 2015 by Guest

[cloakfiend 990]

Interesting? but unfortunately not an option at the moment, lol. Moving material past the coupler is just impossible at the moment as bits would keep on separating from the head and break off in the bowden tube or the area near the print head. I will try to go to 90 and leave it before I pull instead of 85, as if I leave it at 85 for more than a few seconds, when I pull it, it just snaps and I have to start over and that gets VERY annoying as i often tire of waiting for it to cool and end up walking away momentarily only to find when I come back its already reached 85 and has cooled too much. major bummer!

[cloakfiend 990]

I just change the nozzle

 

Fair enough but I'd like to keep tinkering to a minimum as I think its all working nicely now apart from the coupler. Its coming up to a year soon with no replacement parts, so I'm happy with that result considering how many objects I have printed, as I print high res, I have the printer on for much longer, but lower temps (208-210) due to exclusively printing with my two favourite PLA brands. I dont bother printing 70mm/s at 230 anymore as the shell quality does not smooth well in acetone compared to 35mm/s at 210.

[cloakfiend 990]

 

What do you mean? the feeder is miles away.

hmmm... so then you heat up the nozzle, move material in and then lower the temps, and then pull it out from all the way at the back?

 

Yes.  Well, I heat to 180C, when it gets there push the material in using my fingers just under the feeder, then lower to 90C and leave for 5 minutes.  Come back and pull it out - hard.  If it's easy then it was too warm and I don't get a good "pull".  The tip should be perfectly shaped like the inside of the nozzle including the thin .4mm channel.

Then if I change color there is zero mixing of colors.

 

Just tried putting the filament in as i did before but rather than 260 like i normally do i did it at 190 and dropped it to 90 for the pull and it worked great so thanks for that! Ill be doing that from now on. much quicker and 90 doenst seem to break the filament as 85 does.

Seems like even one pull is enough. i did two just to see what the second would look like.

Edited June 24, 2015 by Guest

[gr5 1,843]

cold pull porn! Those are perfect!