Closed TOP surfaces

[IRobertI 520]

I assume you mean three decimals on the imperial range? I think you'd have to pay quite a bit of cash to get three decimals on the metric scale. And it would be overkill as it's very easy to skew the result even at two decimals by putting a bit too much pressure on the filament.

It's an excellent tool to have regardless. Also, the cheap ones can usually be modified to give faster readings and access to the min/max function that is usually hiding in the firmware but has no button.

[cloakfiend 995]

Could you recommend any good cheap ones in particular?

[neotko 1,417]

I assume you mean three decimals on the imperial range? I think you'd have to pay quite a bit of cash to get three decimals on the metric scale. And it would be overkill as it's very easy to skew the result even at two decimals by putting a bit too much pressure on the filament.

It's an excellent tool to have regardless. Also, the cheap ones can usually be modified to give faster readings and access to the min/max function that is usually hiding in the firmware but has no button.

 

Indeed. Edited it just after posting :DI got mine on amazon for 40€ or so.

Edit mine was 24€ on amazon not super but just good enough

Edited July 15, 2015 by Guest

[esteban-pacheco 33]

 

I assume you mean three decimals on the imperial range? I think you'd have to pay quite a bit of cash to get three decimals on the metric scale. And it would be overkill as it's very easy to skew the result even at two decimals by putting a bit too much pressure on the filament.

It's an excellent tool to have regardless. Also, the cheap ones can usually be modified to give faster readings and access to the min/max function that is usually hiding in the firmware but has no button.

 

Indeed. Edited it just after posting :DI got mine on amazon for 40€ or so.

Edit mine was 24€ on amazon :)not super but just good enough

 

yeah, im getting mine also in amazon

[gr5 2,170]

Could you recommend any good cheap ones in particular?

 

I see you are in the UK. Someone else in the UK have a recommendation?

To clarify - on UMO you enter the diameter of filament in Cura.  On UM2 (assuming you are printing ultigcode mode) you enter the filament diameter on the printer in material settings.

Edited July 15, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Someday stuff like this will be something to remember nostalgically if stuff like this it's well integrated http://owi.storenvy.com/products/10451151-filament-sensor-kit

Edited July 15, 2015 by Guest

[gr5 2,170]

 

Could you recommend any good cheap ones in particular?

 

I see you are in the UK.  Someone else in the UK have a recommendation?

To clarify - on UMO you enter the diameter of filament in Cura.  On UM2 (assuming you are printing ultigcode mode) you enter the filament diameter on the printer in material settings.

I have to tell you - the micrometer is the most useful tool I have when I design prints in CAD.

[cloakfiend 995]

Thanks, and yes im in the uk. I was curious where to enter it, as i did not see it in cura.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

well, yesterday i made some measurements on white Filament from colorfabb... i#ve got an average of 2.86, thats not so much, how to explain the diference between black and white materials, taking the print Quality as reference?

[danilius 118]

well, yesterday i made some measurements on white Filament from colorfabb... i#ve got an average of 2.86, thats not so much, how to explain the diference between black and white materials, taking the print Quality as reference?

 

No, I suspect that your filament either needs much higher temperature than the black (maybe as much as 20C more) or that you have the misfortune to have bought a roll from a bad batch.

[DidierKlein 729]

I think it comes from the pigment to color the filament. It's not unusual to see some underextrusion problems only with white filaments

@danilius is correct about the temperature, most of the time you'll be able to print every color at the same temperature but sometimes you need to increase it

[danilius 118]

 

@DidierKlein, now that you mention that, I have a roll of white PLA, and so far nothing has managed to keep it stuck to the bed. I'm going to try ABS juice which seems to stick almost anything together (currently I'm using it to hold the front passenger side wing of my car while the propellers dry), and comes off the bed relatively easily once the glass has cooled.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

well, i've tried with faberdashery Filament... Arctic White... just perfect... since im using an Olson block, i needed to rise the temp a Little bit (217) and it just came perfectly, tonight ill post some Images of it.

no Need of turning up the flow rate...and so on.

[francfalco 37]

Yep, Faberdashery PLA has always worked for me.

Glad you got the issue sorted!

Edited July 21, 2015 by Guest

[esteban-pacheco 33]

Yep, Faberdashery PLA has always worked for me.

Glad you got the issue sorted!

 

i guess i Need to Switch to Faberdashery...

[jonnybischof 60]

 

Yep, Faberdashery PLA has always worked for me.

Glad you got the issue sorted!

 

i guess i Need to Switch to Faberdashery...

 

Definitely not a bad idea. You pay the premium price, but you also get the premium quality

By the way, I found faberdashery PLA to be only a tiny bit (0.01 CHF per meter) more expensive than Diamond Age, which is also premium grade PLA, and a bit cheaper than Colorfabb XT which is my preferred filament for technical high-strength parts.

Faberdashery ships all orders above 200£ for free. That's a lot of money, but shipping costs can make a big part of the total cost (especially if you live in Switzerland...)

Edited July 21, 2015 by Guest

[danilius 118]

Or you can try http://www.shop.3dfilaprint.com/pla-black-3mm-596-p.asp which is black PLA. It's the only colour PLA I have ordered from them, so I have no idea if the other stuff is any good or not. But this filament is of finest PLA I have used, as good if not better than Colorfabb, although that's not a very scientific opinion, merely my personal observation. At £17 a kilo, it's very reasonable.

[mja 1]

I have the same issue, too. Got my ultimaker last year, been lurking the forums for a solution. Nothing from this thread, or the other one (https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/6375-top-layers-not-touching-um2?page=38) seems to help. Is guys at ultimaker aware of this?

[neotko 1,417]

Today had this problem with a new colorfab orange roll. But this time I remembered so I pop out my new caliper (the cheap just died) measured the filament and was 1.72-1.73 placed the diameter and all solved.

[danilius 118]

@neotko, while printing with 1.75mm filament is doable the Ultimaker is built for 2.85mm only.

If you are having problems already, then using 1.75mm filament is simply heaping another set of problems on your existing steaming pile.

[neotko 1,417]

@neotko, while printing with 1.75mm filament is doable the Ultimaker is built for 2.85mm only.

If you are having problems already, then using 1.75mm filament is simply heaping another set of problems on your existing steaming pile.

No no sorry I modded hardware to print 1.75 and I print a lot. I just wanted to share that even with reliable filaments a caliper can help you fiz this issue. Unless the problem it's the coupler/feeder/lowheat/toofast

[DidierKlein 729]

Do i understand well that you changed the diameter parameter in Cura and that it solved your closed surface problem?

Actually changing the diameter in Cura, kind of acts the way changing the flow percentage acts.

[neotko 1,417]

I changed the diameter on simpify3d. And I use umo+ iso if I remember correctly on um2 it must be changednon the little screen? But yes it fixed the problem. Measured the filament on 3 points and entered the round number. With some chinaplas the changes are each meter but this colorfab it's very stable at 172-173 at least as far I can measure.

[gr5 2,170]

I have the same issue, too. Got my ultimaker last year, been lurking the forums for a solution. Nothing from this thread, or the other one (https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/6375-top-layers-not-touching-um2?page=38) seems to help. Is guys at ultimaker aware of this?

Which issue?  There are a few issues mentioned in this thread - for example "part not sticking to bed".  The closed top issue is pretty easy to fix but there are many causes.  There's the pillowing issue discussed nicely here:

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

You might not have enough infill (I recommend 20% if you are having trouble filling in the top) and you want at least .6mm thick top surface setting in Cura and layers thinner than .1mm are also more problematic but I'm guessing your issue is underextrusion and you just need to increase flow to 110%.  Please post a photo.  This is a pretty easy problem to fix so it's not that interesting.  I'm more interested in the strange issues people have.  Anyway please post a picture.

Edited August 4, 2015 by Guest

[danilius 118]

No no sorry I modded hardware to print 1.75 and I print a lot. I just wanted to share that even with reliable filaments a caliper can help you fiz this issue. Unless the problem it's the coupler/feeder/lowheat/toofast

 

Oh, I got you. I tend to find that diameter is far less critical than, say, temperature.