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esteban-pacheco

Closed TOP surfaces

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

Please post a photo.  This is a pretty easy problem to fix so it's not that interesting.  I'm more interested in the strange issues people have.  Anyway please post a picture.

 

5a331004c63ca_Photo05-08-15101338.thumb.jpg.a31942ce4d94cf6410e7c00fc7878634.jpg

This is printed at 50mm, 0.1 layers, sliced in Cura. Temp was 215, Ultimaker PLA. To me, it looks like the same issue a user Nicolinux (and others) have. Underextrusion isn't visible on the sides of the object. Also, first 3-4 layers are usually perfect.

5a331004c63ca_Photo05-08-15101338.thumb.jpg.a31942ce4d94cf6410e7c00fc7878634.jpg

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

I don't think that's underextrusion but just that the number of top layers it's too low to properly make a solid cover. How thick was the top layer and what infill did you use? Also did you measure the filament?

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

I don't think that's underextrusion but just that the number of top layers it's too low to properly make a solid cover. How thick was the top layer and what infill did you use? Also did you measure the filament?

 

I did measure the filament and the diameter was OK, also tried another color from UM as well as Colorfabb PLA. Infill density on this object is 25%, the number of the solid layers is 6 on the sides and 12 solid (0.1mm) layers over the cutout in the middle. That should be plenty, right?

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

I forgot to add, this effect is visible even on the bottom solid layers, it starts at around layer 4 to 6 when printing a object.

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

If everything from the guide about this fails http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

I would try 26% since the infill pattern changes from 25 to 26 on cura (at least on old versions).

 

The problem is that i get this effect on the bottom, solid layers as well. The printer doesn't even get to printing the infill and the surface looks just like this. I tried all the relevant things from the guide (checked the short belts, pushed the motors down, also one axle showed the "Protruding axes" effect a bit, so i fixed that, nothing helps)

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

Ptfe coupler in good condition? Also if you printed abs or other material than the current one, try some atomic pulls to leave all nice and clean. Apart of that I don't know...

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

PTFE was like new last time i checked, i have never tried ABS, but i did the atomic pull many many times. Doesn't seem to help. What troubles me is that i'm not the only one (from what i've found out while lurking the forum waiting for someone to figure out that's wrong.)

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

try dropping the temp to 210? I get this not closed surface business all the time when printing 0.2 mm layers and from what i've read there is no cure, but i'm not sure if i still got it with 0.1?

I definitely dont ever get it with 0.06 if that helps?

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

There's a think I do for my prints, apart of changing filament size before printing etc etc etc etc. That make's me close the top layers, specially ones with many curves and not 'perfect'. I make simplify3d print it simulating a 0.39 nozzle. This way it makes more lines (tiny bit slower ofc) but well.. it works for me. I print all 0.2 3 top layers and my layers do get nice closing (I won't be able to sell this unless it looks ok). I know you might not trust me, but ofc, it's my personal experience. I don't know how you can make this effect on cura, but I suppose it's just a matter of changing the nozzle size and placing the correct amount of extra flow. Sorry, just dropping ideas.

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Posted (edited) · Closed TOP surfaces

I need to see it to believe it, lol. I've not see anyone do this successfully and post a pic close up to prove it, so if you could sort it out it would solve that issue nicely. Im quite willing to try different flows even though i'm pretty sure i tried that, and the filament size thing, well, i think i tried that, but if you post screenshots of what you are doing ill give it a shot and report back.

Im not that bothered though as I mainly use low res 0.2 for signage and office stuff that looks fine from a distance. Its of no use to me whatsoever for printing actual models.

Edited by Guest

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

Youcan check the post I did the other week about the nozzle 'simulation' that makes simplify3d. There's photos of how it really makes the lines thinner (to maximum of 0.28-0.32). It makes more lines and thinner details (but isn't magic) and robert comments that he posted something like that on the printing guide to help thin walls. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16881-really-tiny-little-details-with-04-nozzle-s3d-umo-

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

Thanks, I think ill just give up on this topic though i have alrady changed the way my printer printes already too much. I just did a print using my usual settings and it seems as if there was a tiny gap between the layer walls like 2 shells, before it would just make it solid but now its not....as long as the surface is ok i dont mind now. Ever since i changed my coupler things are different...? oh well. I dont use slicer so will not use that method, unfortunately. My workflow is complicated enough using 3 separate programs to do what I need regarding wall thickness and surface quality.

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

 

If everything from the guide about this fails http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

I would try 26% since the infill pattern changes from 25 to 26 on cura (at least on old versions).

 

The problem is that i get this effect on the bottom, solid layers as well. The printer doesn't even get to printing the infill and the surface looks just like this. I tried all the relevant things from the guide (checked the short belts, pushed the motors down, also one axle showed the "Protruding axes" effect a bit, so i fixed that, nothing helps)

 

I have exactly the same problem here with my U2... this issues are so erratic and random, sometimes happens, sometimes don't, so i think theres a solution that fits all. when i rise the flow rate to 110% it seems to get better, but that is also not a solution, i also have changed all you can change in the printer, (and by all i mean ALL belts, nozzle, temp sensor, heater cartridge, PTFE, Stainless Coupler, bowdentube, feeder) it is quite disappointing...

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

Hi everyone.

I'm in the same situation as Esteban, getting pretty frustrated after trying to fix every single issue I could think of.

I changed my ptfe coupler a couple weeks ago, along with a new electronic board, so I updated to the latest firmware included in the last Cura's release (the most unstable one I've seen in a long time, but that's not the issue now), and from then, nothing ever worked properly again.

I'm getting the same kind of random underextruded lines on top infill, no matter the amount of layers. I tried different temp, different speed, double checked the filament diameter, tried different feeder pressure level, re-leveled the bed something like a thousand times, oiled every possible moving part, and ... nothing ! Well it prints, but with these random issues showing up here and there. I'm using toybuilders white pla, which I've used for several month now, never had an issue like this (does get brittle around the end of the roll but no enough to be a real issue), and no matter which roll I try the issue is the same, over and over again ..

Couple of questions :

- could it be something linked to the latest firmware ? Should I do a factory reset ? I was told when I received the board to update it as it was still a pretty old one on there, if I do a factory reset it will come back to this version right ?

- how are there so many people having this same issue (apparently about at the same time), with both completely new and "used to work" printers, without any solution appearing ?

- What could explain that the first layers/small parts print fine, but then suddenly it starts having issues during the infill ?

Anyone able to provide any help would be much appreciated !

Thanks,

Max.

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Posted (edited) · Closed TOP surfaces

Also, a couple of other "maybe linked" issues I've had so far :

- Playing with the feeder tension. Took me a while, but I think I finally have the right level of tightness (and as soon as I'm printing reliably again I'm printing Robert's feeder and throwing this  insanely designed one away ! )

- My belts seem to be tight, however I 've noticed an increasing amount of "black dust" beneath some of them. At first I thought that it was because I increased the traveling to 250, but it seems to be still going on. I can't see any obvious "use" on my belts, the teeth are still here and pretty sharp, but I'm not sure how bad they can get before becoming an issue.

- Every now and then, I get a clog right at the beginning of a print. After investigation and an significant amount of filament wasted, I found out that the "tip" of my filament would make a "blob", which seems to force its way through the bowden tube when being retracted and still a bit hot, but that won't slide through when being pushed back and cold. What could this be coming from ? I'm worried that the answer is going to be "Teflon coupler", that I replaced way less than a month ago...

Could that explain some of the under-extrusion with this blob slowing down the extrusion after retraction ? I can post a picture of the way the filament tip looks when this happens.

I can post pictures of my failed print, but the issues are very very similar to the ones already posted here. A bit more less regular, more random I'd say, but the very same looking failed lines, and the same frustration in the end ...

Edit; just tried a new print, and lucky me, I get this issue from the very first layer now, before any retraction, so I'm guessing my blob issue is not related ... Any suggestions ?

Blobbing.thumb.jpg.82a40350221b1e9d552fe7e852bcf589.jpg The blob I mentioned (I usually only have the upper part, the lower one staying inside the nozzle ..)

First_layer.thumb.jpg.f4ed07ae72640ca44a79b8e47501d2c8.jpg First layer, and the issue is already there ... "yeeah" ..

Infil_issue.thumb.jpg.7161bb97c2ddcc74665f72e72273d386.jpg And keeps going on, after 5 bottom layer, a couple of infill ones, and 7 or 8 of top infill

Blobbing.thumb.jpg.82a40350221b1e9d552fe7e852bcf589.jpg

First_layer.thumb.jpg.f4ed07ae72640ca44a79b8e47501d2c8.jpg

Infil_issue.thumb.jpg.7161bb97c2ddcc74665f72e72273d386.jpg

Edited by Guest
Adding details+pics

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

So just couple more people with the same problem, but without a real solution - or at least an acknowledgement from UM if this is a known issue or what. Should we contact the support? This is quite frustrating.

I just tried a new spool of Colorfabb orange, printed it at 210C and i still get the line-separation-top-not-closed whatever issue.

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

Thats weird, as i found that flat surfaces are what this printer does really well, heres an example of a raft i had laying about done in red ABS 0.1 layer height, I also print many faces and i lay them flat as they print better than if they are printed vertically due to all the striping. I only really had issues at 0.2 but i feel for you mate. you want something like this.

20150807_160926.thumb.jpg.e7af0a17a63f6420c7326c56ea0dd99e.jpg

Either way I hope you sort it soon, as it means you cant print a damn thing. Can you print any stock supplied models with closed surfaces, i.e. the robot and all that stuff. If it cant then you have a proper hardware problem rather than a software related problem or some other variety.

20150807_160926.thumb.jpg.e7af0a17a63f6420c7326c56ea0dd99e.jpg

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

While I was crying watching my printer staying idle, I stumbled upon this post : https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/9513-underextrusion-need-help-with-this-one?page=2

The answer Illuminarti provides shows an assembly of the printhead/nozzle different than what I have going on now. I just dismounted everything yesterday and cleaned it out and reassembled it, so I'd like some confirmation before going ahead, but could that gap between the nozzle/nut make a difference ? And generate the kind of issues we've been having (like putting a gap "somewhere" inside that assembly, in which the melted plastic would go, slowing down the flow from time to time, randomly, explaining what's our problem ?)

When I first changed my Teflon coupler about a month ago it seemed to make sense to me to re-assemble the nut screwing it all the way down (without forcing) into the nozzle, but I could very much be wrong, I was thinking more in an "Ikea assembly" kind of logic, and maybe that's not a good fit in 3D printing :)

Anyone has some info on this ? On new/untouched printer, how far into the nut does the teflon coupler sits ? I think my old one used to sit a bit further into the nut, so maybe that's the issue, but because I just dismounted the whole head yesterday, I'd like some confirmation before getting into this again.

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

Feels a bit stupid to rewrite the whole thing, and I haven't tested it yet, but this issue COULD be caused by an improper teflon coupler mounting, putting too much spring pressure on it, creating way premature use in the teflon coupler, generating the issues we've been experiencing ...

I'm working on it right now, and will post the results if I get any, in the meantime you can check page 56 of the assembly manual (am I the only one discovering the very existence of that holy grail of a manual only now?!) on the head assembly, don't know how you did it, but I replaced my teflon coupler the other way around (nut screwed into the nozzle first then teflon slide into it .. ). This could be the cause of our problem ....

Will update as soon as I've been able to try out my theory !

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Posted (edited) · Closed TOP surfaces

I just replaced my coupler and had this exact same issue. Plastic oozed out but it didnt even print unlike yours. I had to un screw it 1mm at least i was from pictures i saw, i forgot which thread, but there was a close up of the assembly with the screw not quite touching the base. I think i need to either screw it more or less as im getting less flow than before. You are getting too much. Check out the closeups on the change coupler thread instructions. This wont cure the top surfaces at 0.2 as that is the problem that has no solution. You loosen the screw and you should have solved your problem.

Edited by Guest

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

From what you're telling me, it seems like you had that issue but the opposite way (you had the teflon sitting too low instead of too high). So you may have had issue with the bottom of the teflon heated too much or not having enough pressure applied to it rather than the spring putting too much pressure on it ..

I usually don't print at 0,2, but when I did (and the teflon was mounted the right way) I never had issue of infill lines not touching, so I'm not sure what problem you're talking about that is specific to ,2 layers.

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

This is printed at 50mm, 0.1 layers, sliced in Cura. Temp was 215, Ultimaker PLA. To me, it looks like the same issue a user Nicolinux (and others) have. Underextrusion isn't visible on the sides of the object. Also, first 3-4 layers are usually perfect.

 

I had a printer that printed just like that @mja. I never figured it out but solved the problem by increasing flow to 110%. It worked fine like that. I had to return the printer (it wasn't mine) and I haven't seen this problem since. But that flow change worked great and I stopped worrying about it.

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

im still having issues with my coupler, lol. it moves waytoo much and makes atomic pulls nearly impossible now? have no clue. i need to push it down before any print now. whatever...as long as it prints i guess.

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Posted · Closed TOP surfaces

Sounds like you want to use korneel's "Ultimaker 2 Spring Replacement" (on youmagine) you want to make it 1mm shorter for use with the olsson block.

It works for me! (Exept for my dual head machine as you loose the hight adjustment on the hot end isolator)

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