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kerberg

new to utilimaker questions, second print no extrusion

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I got my utilimaker 2 yesterday and am pretty excited. I got it carefully unpacked and set up and ran through some test prints that came on the SD card, the robot and the heart. things went great. I finished and had some lunch and turned the machine on to print something of my own design from cura and now no filament comes out. I went back to test the robot again thinking it might have been something I did in cura but that also results in no filament extruding....? I was worried about the clogging issue and the nozzle being hard to undo but imagined I would get plenty of prints out before this became an issue. any advice? Thanks -E

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thanks for you reply R - this forum is odd, it doesn't show me your reply unless I click on your name and then it wont even show me full reply it cuts off after ... for 12 hours making... anyway . Its frustrating. the hole is completely shut with abs. i cant even get a pin in there after heating it to 260c for 5-10 min... I tried your solution.  I removed the material and cut the end off and reloaded it but still same issue... :(hope i dont have to go whats called "Atomic" after one print... that would suck

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so i tried to remove the material again from the feed line, the clear plastic tube and it seems that the abs retracted but only a little and was hot enough to glue itself stuck in there... so now when i hit "change material " the motor cant pull it back out... hmmm. this is not the exciting printing filled weekend i planned for .

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Yeah the clear tube it's pfa a teflon based plastic. Maybe a part got expanded bellow the bowden it expanted to 3,2mm (becuase that the size of the white teflon coupler) and when retracts it can't go through the 3mm bowden. I would just take the bowden out, remove the filament and reinsert everything. Also check that the small fan behind the head it's running when printing. On new um2 it starts at 40C and on the models before it starts all the time when the machine it's on.

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thanks for you reply R - this forum is odd, it doesn't show me your reply unless I click on your name and then it wont even show me full reply it cuts off after ... for 12 hours making

That was because Raky0311 was not yet approved (brand new member). You shouldn't even have gotten a notification about the post until I approved it. This forum software is custom made very recently and there are... some... bugs.

 

silver abs bought with machine

 

Ultimaker does not sell silver ABS so you must have PLA. It's important to know the correct material type to help you in the best way. (also silver PLA is the plastic that is usually delivered by default with the printer)

 

Also it can't be stuck to the bowden pfa since almost nothing sticks to teflon plastic. Maybe it's someting not perfectly assembled. I would just call tehm asap before they get on weekend mode :)

 

Oh it ca get jammed in there pretty good. I've had to pound out a bit of scrap PLA with some other PLA once or twice.

 

and upon closer inspection one of the bolts that holds the back feeder motor assembly thing. seems to be stripped... so the alan wrench wont even turn it. this is a lot of drama for a new machine...

 

Yes, unfortunately I've seen this on a few machines. If you have access to a Torx-driver instead of a hex-driver that can often work better as it bites into the screw better.

 

how do i remove the material from the bowden? i took out the blue collar and pushed doen on the white sleeve to remove the part by the printing head and but it seems more difficult to do by the motor which feeds the filament. Thanks so much for your advice . frustrating start for sure

 

To remove the bowden at the head you do as you said, remove the shoe and push down. However, since filament is already loaded you need to heat the print head up so that the filament isn't cold and locked in place.

Before doing that you can also try "Maintenance -> Advanced -> Move material". Let the printer heat up and then turn the menu knob to advance or retract material. At the same time, manually pull hard on the filament at the back of the machine to help the motor. It will likely go "tock tock tock" and not move, or it might grind the material down, but it's worth a shot.

Also, now that you have let the PLA sit at 260C for a while (I don't like that Ultimaker recommends this...), it might be cooked and you should probably do an Atomic, just for good measure. You should learn how to do it regardless as it's a good thing to do from time to time. I've written some instructions on it here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the

I wonder how many notifications you'll get because of this message... (another forum bug).

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man - to do something called an atomic on the 2nd print is not inspiring... will give it a try. cany more advice now on how to get the filament out of the bowden. the feeder has spun without moving it so that it has ground the filament down and wont grip it and on the other end there is a melted glob that I cant seem to move by poking... stuck from both ends :( also i cant seem to get the bowden out of the feeder as easy as i got it out of the print head even though i tried same process. im hesitant to really yank on it... though i did try pulling pretty hard while pushing the white sleeve down to release. thanks for your advice

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Call it a "cold pull" if "atomic" sounds scary ;) Both terms are widely used. And yeah, you shouldn't have to do it after just one print but don't consider it something extreme or strange. I equate it to having to sharpen a knife occasionally or scrub the toilet, it's just part of basic maintenance. Personally I do the "lazy" version every time I switch colour.

Oh yeah, now that the feeder has eaten the filament a bit, make sure you blow the dust off the little metal wheel that drives the filament forward so that it grips properly.

And make sure that you have chosen the "PLA" material profile on the printer so that you don't cook it. I'm just mentioning that because you called it ABS in one of your previous posts.

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ok i tried this cold pull method following your guide. i got it hot and pushed the filiament in there and let it cool at which point it got pretty stuck... i had to heat it up again just to get it out and even that took a bit of effort. is the white piece with the spring on it supposed to move...? Because as i pulled it out that was moving ... I might just go ahead and take the head apart at this point... damn

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No it shouldn't move. That might be the root cause, maybe the isolator wasn't properly seated which allowed plastic to leak between it and the block, once the plastic cools it locks in place. Even after heating it's possible that it would still be stuck because of this.

This should help with disassembly:

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/56-replacing-the-ptfe-coupler

Look at it on the bright side, you're getting intimately familiar with the printer. This is a good thing :) It's an advantage us old timers that built our own printers (and new guys buying UMOs) have, we know where every piece goes so it makes it easier to visualise what might be wrong :)

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I tried that. i even guided the filament into the isolator as it was caught for a split second as you describe. and still the nozzle is closed shut. no extrusion. I took the head apart again this time going further to even isolate the brass nozzle and heater piece. The heating element comes out easy but the temp sensor is impossible to remove... they really need to work out a design where the nozzle removal is easier. anyway the nozzle is clogged and nothing i seem to do can open it. i am going to hunt now for a pin tiny enough to get through the hole when its hot. super super SUPER frustrating experience on a brand new and pretty pricey machine.

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1) kerberg - you *still* haven't confirmed if we are dealing with ABS or PLA as there is a big difference. But leaving either material in the hot end at 260C for a full minute or two will pretty reliably create a plug in the nozzle. But most especially ABS - that gets extra gunky/waxy like cold chewing gum even though it is hot.

2) Also what coutnry to you live in kerberg - advice varies depending on the country as there are different support centers around the world and different suppliers of parts and different kinds of chemicals are found at different kinds of stores depending.

3) Getting temp sensor out. This is kind of important as to clean out your clog you probably have to heat that brass to something like 500C and burn everything out as at this point you seem to have a pretty good clog in there. If it's abs you can soak the whole thing in a jar of acetone for 24 hours but that won't work well with PLA. So anyway - getting that temp sensor out - make sure the threaded thing is removed as that holds the temp sensor in. It's very common for the temp sensors to be crimped such that they are oversized at the tip and can get stuck inside the nozzle block. I fixed my block by routing it for 30 seconds with a smaller drill bit. It's very delicate so be careful. I've broken 2 temp sensors already. It helps to add a drop of oil to try to get it to penetrate. It also helps to heat the head and pull it out while the head is still hotter than the sensor. But sometimes you have to take a small drill bit and drill in from the other side until you feel it hit the temp sensor. Then stop quickly and remove the drill bit and then push out the temp sensor with a paper clip. Sometimes you will end up destroying the temp sensor. I sell them but only if you live in USA. Ultimaker will for sure send you a free one if you damage it and create a ticket at support.ultimaker.com. 3dsolex.com sells them also.

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