XTC-3D and casting

[yellowshark 153]

Hi Cloakfiend, it takes a bit of practice but you can get a great finish with XTC 3D (i.e. not lumpy). I guess the model size/geometry comes into this also. I make an automotive part for a client and the part goes straight to the paintshop for spraying so it has to be ultra smooth.

The one problem I had was the occasional "run" but with some practice I got rid of these. I also use the colour dye so that the layer lines are completely disappeared

[cloakfiend 995]

Yeah, i guess its resin, so the same reason why some resin paint hide the lines. but it also fills in tiny details, like crease lines and small details, i cant really comment as ive not used it. I made try it out of boredom.

[qmaker 29]

Cloakfiend,

Did you ever find a workflow, or solution to this? I too would like to metal coat, cast or something to take the prints beyond plastic toys. I find that it is really difficult to get anything taken serious outside of 3d printing circles without making things larger and from a traditional material.

I am currently talking with a company here who uses CNC mills to enlarge and cut foams for something that might be turned into a large sculpture or whatever. I would love to hear what experience anybody has with this or other methods.

[cloakfiend 995]

I might get some just to try, cant hurt. Ill see if i can pick some up cheap from somewhere. Ill do an in depth review if i do.

[cloakfiend 995]

I have made larger stuff and made silicon molds and cast resin casts, and painted metal paint on them which was very effective. it also means you dont need to sand as much or be that acurate with clean up as the paint is much thicker and covers the lines easily, much like the xtc stuff i guess. I use metal powder in varnish and after some experimentation found that it works very well, but you need to try to avoid drips the most due to the viscosity. I never got round to getting the electroplating machine as the price was higher than advertised and felt that maybe i could just devise something myself, diy style.

Its very easy to cast something in a resin metal powder mix, and a few ways of doing it to save on metal powder or else you end up using alot, but it add weight which makes the object feel better. if you coat the inside of the mold with metal powder first and only pour in resin second then you only use a bit.

But silicon and resin are way more expensive than just painting your models in the metal varnish mix. Ive posted photos in the prints section, feel free to have a look and ask me anything if you want. If you paint with metal, patinas will also be available to add effect.

Edited November 8, 2015 by Guest

[qmaker 29]

Is there a way to navigate directly to a members prints? If I go to the print section I don't see a way to search directly for someones prints. Additionally, shouldn't there be a link if you view someones profile directly. Am I missing it.

Thanks,

[cloakfiend 995]

Just for you! i pulled them off my print section but if you just go through my acetone thread i have many more there. I'm sure if you search in the prints section for my name it will bring up my posts.

just to prove its not a cast and just painted. warm red colorfabb as usual. I use traffic red now as it acetones a little better.

Ill do a tutorial how to get this effect as is is very easy but i have not seen any tuts around, only people talking and being vague about how its done, so ill show you how i do it.... stay tuned, but ill do it in another thread.

Edited November 9, 2015 by Guest

[WiseOldOwl 7]

^^^ Very good. Looks much like the excellent water-based Sculpt Nouveau. You can apply it by brush, spray, roller etc. It is really good stuff. You put on a few coats and the last coat you can apply an acid patina to make it appear rusty, green etc. I have used it for over 10 years.

I would avoid the metal plating. It just isn't practical for this work. To do it properly, you want to find a plating company that does vacuum deposition for plastics. Let them handle the NASTY chemicals. So that you aren't surprised, the model needs to be absolutely perfect or they won't plate it.

In regards to the XTC coating, this is epoxy resin. It is nearly the same stuff useed to laminate carbon fiber, and woven structural fiberglass cloth (NOT stinky polyester used with random strand mat). It is good for what it is, but it should enver be considered as part of the hot metal casting process since it can cause a moisture induced explosion. "Lost PLA" is a hack and not what a pro would do.

There are a few ways to create real metal and faux metal parts. A few have already been mentioned:

1) Print your master model. Use it as a sand casting pattern. Remove model & cast real metal into the special sand mix.

2) Print master & create silicone rubber mold. Remove master. Mix polyurethane resin & metal powder and cast into mold. Remove and polish. This is often called 'cold cast' bronze, brass, etc.

3) Print in Brass or BronzeFill filament and tumble to polish.

4) Smooth the part, coat it in XTC and coat it in Sculpt Nouveau.

[qmaker 29]

Thanks I will have a look into the sculpt Nouveau. Do you have some samples to post?

[WiseOldOwl 7]

Thanks I will have a look into the sculpt Nouveau.  Do you have some samples to post?

 

Direct site for SN metal coatings (not paint): http://www.sculptnouveau.com/Details.cfm?ProdID=42&category=6

Google Image search "Sculpt Nouveau" and see if anything catches your eye...

[cloakfiend 995]

The one thing i really like about sculpt nouveau paints is that they are very easy to apply and the patinas rock, tiffany green is great and the bottle goes a long way. I still will try the metal coating thing out, it just looks too interesting to not investigate and was one of my childhood curiosities!

[qmaker 29]

Does the 3d print have to be coated with XTC before applying sculpt Nouveau?

How thick does it build up? My concern would be losing detail by the addition of the XTC as well as a second product on top of that. I guess the solution would be to really emphasize any textures or details so that they don't get lost.

Thanks,

Q

[cloakfiend 995]

I've never used XTC but ill assume it will lose a bit of detail as you are adding an extra layer regardless of what it is. In my opinion if you print high res (60 microns+), then the sculpt nouveau paint is thick enough to conceal most of the lines. I just dip my models in acetone for a set amount of time depending on the colour. Then a light spray of undercoat is needed as the sculpt nouveau paints don't grip that well but two layers of SN paint is plenty. patina if you want, with SN paints you need to do it when still wet.

Done.

Edited November 21, 2015 by Guest

[qmaker 29]

Thanks Cloakfiend,

What undercoat are you using? Something specific from SN, or just a general auto paint primer?

I will have to give the acetone dip a try as well. Do you wash the print after the acetone dip and before the undercoat or paint after drying from the acetone dip.

I am going to order some of the SN Paint/ patina

Are these guys the same as Brick in the Yard? Sounds like the same guy in the video.

[cloakfiend 995]

Any plastic or multi purpose primer is fine, but remember its just for grip so don't go too heavy as some spray cans push out too much paint. Just as long as its covered you'll be fine, but again, doing a few layers extra can conceal the layers to your advantage, just depends on how much detail you want to keep.

[WiseOldOwl 7]

SN recommends 2 coats, so I wouldn't put on the XTC. What I would do is use a light coat of primer as a barrier/bite coat onto the plastic to transition between plastic and SN/top coat.

If your part has a lot of detail, SN may not be right for what you are doing. This is where printing a master & doing cold cast metals + buffing makes more sense.

[qmaker 29]

Thanks Guys, I appreciate all the great information.

[WiseOldOwl 7]

No problem...The ONLY way to tell for sure is to try a sample for yourself.

[qmaker 29]

Sure, its in the works as we speak. I will let everyone know what my experience and outcome is.

[TheRealJoost 5]

The XTC-3D is really not that bad and can be worked with good results although it highly depends on the model.

I only do pre-production electronic enclosures i.e., no artsy stuff with lots of nooks and crannies. Large flat surfaces sometimes look good when prepping with XTC-3D but show patches when dry (apparently I am too stingy with that stuff). Also, your dimensions change slightly so holes and threads should be avoided or expect to put in some elbow grease afterwards.

That said, I have seldom gotten a perfect result that could fool anyone into believing it was the actual production part. But again, that may just be my lack of patience to do it right. If you have no experience with it, I would at least give it a try - it is only 40 bucks or so on Amazon.

[yellowshark 153]

XTC-3D rocks. One of the earlier posts said you can still see the layer lines. Of course you can, XTC=3D is clear. Rub your finger over those "lines" and is s smooth as a baby's bum. If you not want to see the lines then use one of their colour additives e.g.