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Making your own Ultimaker - What not to buy on china stores (personal experience)


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Posted · Making your own Ultimaker - What not to buy on china stores (personal experience)

and you keep buying it?

 

Shhhhhh. Let him buy everything. He's like the Mythbusters: he buys things that no one would buy just to show the world what they should or shouldn't buy (just change buy with blow up to see how Savage our friend Neotko is).

BTW, Neotko, I have a question. How much would it cost to transform an UM2/UMO+ to 1.75mm filament? Everything considering I got everything from China, of course. ;D

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Posted (edited) · Making your own Ultimaker - What not to buy on china stores (personal experience)

Umm. A umo to 1.75 probably (if you don't add the e3d nozzles because china nozzles sucks) around 20-30€ tops with the bowden. It's copper barrel + ptfe coupler + bowden + time to install everything.

For a um2 that would be around 30-40 for the blockI would not get the olsson at china, it can work but I had to do some internal cleaning on the threads for that, so you need extra tools. And 5-10€ extra for the bowden (you can use 4-2mm bowdens that work perfectly with some printsd mods) and a new nozzle.

Lol @flowalistik XD mythbuster niahahahaa!!

Edited by Guest
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    Posted (edited) · Making your own Ultimaker - What not to buy on china stores (personal experience)

    How much would it cost to transform an UM2/UMO+ to 1.75mm filament? Everything considering I got everything from China, of course. ;D

    Ahem. Big brother Ultimaker and especially small brother 3dSolex are seeing this... ;)

    Edited by Guest
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    Posted · Making your own Ultimaker - What not to buy on china stores (personal experience)

    How much would it cost to transform an UM2/UMO+ to 1.75mm filament? Everything considering I got everything from China, of course. ;D

    Ahem. Big brother Ultimaker and especially small brother 3dSolex are seeing this... ;)

    The truth it's that if you have the tools and know-how you can fix almost any china crap. I love to have some clones to do weird experiments. For example to try to short the resistor of the steppers I won't do that on my precious real um2 boards, but on a china clone that isn't even sure to last long? Or to try to drill a olsson so I can fit a umo barrel inside so I can have easier nozzle change on umo (aluminium sucks for that). Yeah, I would use a china clone for that not a perfectly crafted olsson. So yeah, I buy china sometimes.

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    Posted · Making your own Ultimaker - What not to buy on china stores (personal experience)

     

    How much would it cost to transform an UM2/UMO+ to 1.75mm filament? Everything considering I got everything from China, of course. ;D

     

    Ahem. Big brother Ultimaker and especially small brother 3dSolex are seeing this... ;)

     

    Arrrghhh. I want to apologize with anyone (Ultimaker, 3dSoler, users...) who may feel I've betrayed them. Shame on me. :p

    After that GoT style moment, just say that I get regularly asked by people that know that I have an Ultimaker about the compatibility with 1.75mm filament. I know it's possible to adapt the Ultimaker to 1.75mm filament, but I don't know the price and the complexity of the process. And for sure, I know @neotko has spent A LOT of time tweaking with his printers to get them work with that filament.

    It would be really useful to have a list of materials needed to transform it as there's some people who already have 1.75mm printers and they want to add a beautiful Ultimaker to their collection.

    tumblr_noj6k2H3r31qa5io5o1_500.gif

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    Posted · Making your own Ultimaker - What not to buy on china stores (personal experience)

     

     

    How much would it cost to transform an UM2/UMO+ to 1.75mm filament? Everything considering I got everything from China, of course. ;D

     

    Ahem. Big brother Ultimaker and especially small brother 3dSolex are seeing this... ;)

     

    Arrrghhh. I want to apologize with anyone (Ultimaker, 3dSoler, users...) who may feel I've betrayed them. Shame on me. :p

    After that GoT style moment, just say that I get regularly asked by people that know that I have an Ultimaker about the compatibility with 1.75mm filament. I know it's possible to adapt the Ultimaker to 1.75mm filament, but I don't know the price and the complexity of the process. And for sure, I know @neotko has spent A LOT of time tweaking with his printers to get them work with that filament.

    It would be really useful to have a list of materials needed to transform it as there's some people who already have 1.75mm printers and they want to add a beautiful Ultimaker to their collection.

    tumblr_noj6k2H3r31qa5io5o1_500.gif

     

    MIj6o.gif

    Nice point.

    There's the 1.75mm recipe list to mod a 2.85mm UMO/UMO+ to 1.75:

    x1 E3D Nozzle 1.75mm : £4.50

    x1 Cloned Hot End Isolator Tube for 1.75 with 2mm día inside: 9,66€ (for 2 units at aliexpress, some sellers sell bad size ones, read the 1.75mm conversion kit for photos)

    x1 PTFE Coupler for 1.75mm with 2mm día inside Hot End Isolator Coupler. At aliexpress 11€ (for 2 units) and superb TFT version at 3dsolex distributors 17.80 CHF (for 1) (listed at http://shop.dim3nsions.ch/tft-umo-isolator.html)

    The bowden, you can get a 4-2mm bowden and print clipts to adapt it, or get a 6-2mm bowden, or insert a 3-2mm inside the 6mm bowden and glue it... That's the part that has many and 'ok' ways to do it.

    The extruder, just need's a good mk7 and IRobertI feeder with a printed guide.

    I think that's about it. The other details are on https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20556-ultimaker-original-175mm-filament-conversion

    For 1.75 on UM2...

    Hotend: Around 30-40€ for a china olsson. That you will need to clean the threads with some m6 tools (that the good ones are quite expensive). Or 66€ at 3dsolex (less troubles and it's know to work).

    PTFE couplers: The 'ok-ish' ones from china go around 11€ for 2, they don't last much, so you will spend time replacing them. Or around 16€ for a real good one TFT/TFM coupler.

    Bowden, that's just like on umo+, there are many ways to do it.

    So I must admit that for umo+ the china route it's ok if you are able to find a good seller for the most critical parts (barrel + ptfe) since many sell them at the wrong sizes. For um2 route, you can get a china olsson that works with some cleaning, but also sometimes it's just beyond any fixing. Also on um2 the tolerances are quite more problematic and aliexpress/ebay isn't the place to find good quality (generally speaking).

    I must admit I bough a lot of stuff to china, but in the end to have me 3 machines working all day for what I print on my shop I ended going to reliable sources. Ofc you can get cheap couplers at china that can work, but also you spend a lot of freaking time doing maintenance to the machines. With the 'real stuff' it just works better and for more time.

    And that's the problem of the china route, you must really spend a lot of money to find 1-2 reliable sources, and by reliable I mean 'almost ok'. And when you order from europe from china you need to wait a month and a half until they arrive, so...

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    Posted (edited) · Making your own Ultimaker - What not to buy on china stores (personal experience)

    Do not buy a weak linear rod, bearings or lead screws, I did and it bent. Do not buy cheap hotends like an E3D Clone or some random hotend.

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    Posted (edited) · Making your own Ultimaker - What not to buy on china stores (personal experience)

    Everyone, you need use 2.85 on a Ultimaker unless you have a modified hot end because the Lulzbot can accept it as 1.75 and its hotend cannot it jams and clogs until you use 2.85 mm. I would just get a whole extruder and hotend direct drive.

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    Posted · Making your own Ultimaker - What not to buy on china stores (personal experience)

    So, in the end it's not that much of a problem! You just need to know where to buy things, and definitely China is not the best place to find Ultimaker compatible produccts.

    And based on my experience with couplers, it's much better to spend more on 1 good coupler than buying 20 from China, because you will end up breaking some cables (fan, heater, sensor...) while changing them. :angry:

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