Jump to content
frederiekpascal

Something went wrong again... what exactly?

Recommended Posts

Posted · Something went wrong again... what exactly?

Now that's a very clean print congratulations :)

What are the settings? And what is the filament brand i like the color!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Something went wrong again... what exactly?

Nice print, but i noticed you made your travel speed 150? and print speed 30, thats quite a big difference, now i cant be sure of this (as i dont touch those settings) but i've read that making travel speed differ from your print speed is not a good idea. I would assume especially on complex models. The skull does look good though. i notice some holes, but i assume thats the 0.8 shell, for some reason i cant print in 0.8. i get awful holes in the tops and bottoms forcing me to go up to 1.2. I guess all our problems are different, lol. Good luck and hope the complex prints go well, if not try and make the travel speed the same. If not try some different filaments, maybe that silver one shrinks somehow over time leading the latest layer to not quite touch the layer beneath it leading it to print a bunch of clown hair as i call it. or mess as others would call it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Something went wrong again... what exactly?

Nice print, but i noticed you made your travel speed 150? and print speed 30, thats quite a big difference, now i cant be sure of this (as i dont touch those settings) but i've read that making travel speed differ from your print speed is not a good idea. I would assume especially on complex models. The skull does look good though. i notice some holes, but i assume thats the 0.8 shell, for some reason i cant print in 0.8. i get awful holes in the tops and bottoms forcing me to go up to 1.2. I guess all our problems are different, lol. Good luck and hope the complex prints go well, if not try and make the travel speed the same. If not try some different filaments, maybe that silver one shrinks somehow over time leading the latest layer to not quite touch the layer beneath it leading it to print a bunch of clown hair as i call it. or mess as others would call it.

 

The travel speed can be really fast. I have mine set to 250

Its the infill speed along with others that you want to keep the same as the print speed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Something went wrong again... what exactly?

Oh ok, thanks for the info, good to know! i can play with that setting now! lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Something went wrong again... what exactly?

Just to explain why - the extruder is not good at speeding up or slowing down (or stopping) so you want very fast travel moves because... it's going to leak no matter what.  So the faster you move the less will leak.

That's why you want infill at the same speed as outer shell - if you have a speed change with the extruder it takes a little time to catch up (less than a second but that's still much too much) and the next 10mm of printing will be over or underextruded.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Something went wrong again... what exactly?

UPDATE : another serious try to print the iron throne.

A lot better than the first spider's web print though. :D

Still many small threads I had to remove with a pincet afterwards, but I'm getting there.

Also, as you can see in the 3rd photo, the plateau did bend at the end of the 45 hours printing, any reasons for this?

Any other tips to improve my throne a bit more? :)

Wq9oTbf.jpg

uBZQmzh.jpg

mtrh8Vp.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Something went wrong again... what exactly?

Probably not strong enough glue or not enough glue. I get that when i forget to put it on. I now dont get this problem, as i coat my plate in an ultra thin glue that i only need to re-apply after like 15-20 prints, so the texture keeps any PAL stuck well, and it comes off nice and easy too, although i do need to do the old upside down airduster trick to take stuff off that covers the entire plate as the surface area is just too large to come off easily.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Something went wrong again... what exactly?

yes theres no avoiding the glue in my opinion unless you like leaving things down to chance, and defo for large flat stuff. but one glue is not as good as the other. you need to find a god one that works for you.i use one but ill do a tutorial about it explaining why its better than most so you will understand. the glue i use stays onthe glass even after i remove the object and survives sratching and a lot of abrasion. so it lasts many prints. other glues i used wore off very quickly.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Something went wrong again... what exactly?

 

It doesn't look like it detached from the glass

 

yes it was, on both sides even :s

 

Oh, couldn't tell on my phone screen.

If you post your print setting then it will help us help you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Something went wrong again... what exactly?

cut and paste response:

lifting corners, curling corners, part sticking to glass

1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics.

2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed.

3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough).

4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim.

5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome.

6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print.

If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Something went wrong again... what exactly?

Ill show you a very easy way to remove it off the plate without damaging it as well ;)

But you need to let it cool for a few minutes after it finishes, or else it will bend when you remove it and stay bent if it is still too warm.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Our picks

    • Ultimaker Cura 4.0 | Stable available!
      Ultimaker Cura 4.0 is mainly focused on the improved user interface and cloud integration.
      As always, we want to collect your user feedback for this release. If there are any improvements you can think of, feel free to mention it here and help us to shape the next release.
      • 65 replies
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!