Thanks for the tip danilius... at risk of sounding obsessive... which I probably am...
'Tiz the only way to get things proper reet...
the idea behind using 'muck' as you call it enables me to retain consistency regarding my finish. I have to coat/seal/varnish my prints due to the bashing and adverse conditions that a speargun necessarily/normally endures.
Then you are sorted. With UHU stic if you apply it to a hot bed, you get a nice smooth - but not glass - finish. As it is, when gluing parts together you want a roughish surface anyway, to get a greater surface area for the glue to adhere to.
What glue do you use, BTW?
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Catlord
Your are cumulating lots of oproblems. - STOP printing at these T° with your stock printer ! As you have already done it, your bowden tube must be replaced. remove if and you
Catlord
Hi, Is your CR-10 stock or did you make some upgrade on it ? If it's stock, don't waste your time : XT-CF20 needs to be printed around 250 /260 °C and your bowden tube will start melting
Catlord
Ok lets begin then :) Stock mean you didn't make any upgrade on your printer. you didn't change the bowden tube by a quality one (like capricorn), you didn't change the hot end.
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Artiz 27
Are you sure this is not just a plot to get you to buy more filament
tis probably true... when I tried 100% it was far too much and I had to keep pausing the print to get rid of all the access... at 75% infill its pretty much solid anyway.
I do think an increased infill helps though...
When you back off on the flow it tends to produce tails and minute holes which then just seems to get worse... if you leave it you then start to get poor overall layer adhesion.
Its definitely a fine tuned balancing game you have to play with this material but if you get it right the end print can be superb... and I don't mean straight off the build plate... I have never had that... I mean after sanding down etc.
This material is definitely not everyone's 'cup of tea' but it is the best so far for making a strong, durable, rigid working part and a speargun really is pushing the limits of current consumer 3D printing... I for one am very impressed so far.
(apologies for poor quality phone photos)
The accuracy of the print for me is essential... to be able to fit the trigger mechanism perfectly is a revelation (above)... its around 0.2 of a mm accurate. That goes for the 25mm bore carbon barrel too which just slides straight onto the handle assembly which I sized at 24.6mm in my CAD model... nothing else I've tried even comes close to the print accuracy of XT-CF20.
Lastly... I think printing at finer layer heights such as .1, .08 and even .06 offer the best results from this material... it then takes very little sanding down to completely remove all printing lines from your model which in turn produces a finish which is both smooth and incredibly accurate.
If you are looking for fine surface detail for your Gnomes, Wizards and monster aliens straight off the build plate and within the hour then this is definitely not the right filament for you
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