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Posted (edited) · Wolfbite

I was wondering if anyone has used "Wolfbite" or "Wolfbite Nano" from "Airwolf 3D" on there printer and if so how did it work compared to traditional methods. The following two links are to the products I am asking about.  

For ABS

Wolfbite

For PLA

Wolfbite Nano

*** I am having no issue at all with PLA Have never used ABS so not sure if it would be useful l^_^.

Edited by Guest
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    Hi Nothikins,

    I have never tried them so I can't really say much for it.

    But are you in need for a better adhesion for your Ultimaker 2?

    For PLA just the heath should be sufficient, and to really seal the deal you could also use the glue stick.

    If you still need a better adhesive there is something else going on, which you probably also won't solve with wolfbite.

    If you need any help, let me know so we can sort it out!

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    • 4 weeks later...
    Posted (edited) · Wolfbite

    I have only printed with PLA and am a total noob ....

     

    With PLA, on UM2, if you bed is leveled properly, just set the bed temperature to 55/60°, use Brim and ...

    ... no problem at all ! :)

    Guglielmo

    Edited by Guest
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    Posted (edited) · Wolfbite

    I am currently trying Wolfbite MEGA with polycarbonate (Polymaker's PC-Max) and initially it did not perform well.

    However after putting up the bed temp to 100C and putting at least 3 layers on it seems to be working at last. I also tried a couple of prints without a raft and that definitely does not work well. It is still extremely expensive for the amount you get (£20 for 60ml-delivered UK)... particularly regarding the amount you have to use to get it to work.

    Having said that as you can see from the image below there is clearly no lift or warping of the Raft or indeed regarding this very large print itself... impressive so far but the real acid test will be the removal from the glass build plate after I have annealed the print... it's a 2 piece handle for a speargun by the way.

     

    WP_20161005_11_01_12_Pro.thumb.jpg.c712ae510a70de06d2610f9899685ba6.jpg

     

     

     

    WP_20161005_11_01_36_Pro.thumb.jpg.73a807318c76b9ebbe46da05e46c56b8.jpg

     

     

    WP_20161005_11_01_12_Pro.thumb.jpg.c712ae510a70de06d2610f9899685ba6.jpg

    WP_20161005_11_01_36_Pro.thumb.jpg.73a807318c76b9ebbe46da05e46c56b8.jpg

    Edited by Guest
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    If you would ever have an issue with PLA not sticking well to the glass plate, try my "salt method" first: dissolve some table salt (NaCl) in water, and use that to wipe the glass plate. Let it dry into a thin mist of salt stuck to the glass. This gives an excellent bonding when hot (60°C), and no bonding at all when cold (20°C). Salt and water cost you nothing.

    - For Ultimaker and colorFabb PLA: excellent bonding, no corners lifting at all, no need to use brims or whatever.

    - For ICE-PLA: still good bonding, but not perfect: occasionally corners of difficult objects (big, 100% filled) do lift a bit.

    But it only works for PLA, not for ABS. I have not tried any other materials.

    See the PDF manual and pictures also:

    https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/

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