Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited) · Wolfbite

I was wondering if anyone has used "Wolfbite" or "Wolfbite Nano" from "Airwolf 3D" on there printer and if so how did it work compared to traditional methods. The following two links are to the products I am asking about.  




Wolfbite Nano

*** I am having no issue at all with PLA Have never used ABS so not sure if it would be useful l^_^.

Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Hi Nothikins,

    I have never tried them so I can't really say much for it.

    But are you in need for a better adhesion for your Ultimaker 2?

    For PLA just the heath should be sufficient, and to really seal the deal you could also use the glue stick.

    If you still need a better adhesive there is something else going on, which you probably also won't solve with wolfbite.

    If you need any help, let me know so we can sort it out!

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    • 4 weeks later...
    Posted (edited) · Wolfbite

    I have only printed with PLA and am a total noob ....


    With PLA, on UM2, if you bed is leveled properly, just set the bed temperature to 55/60°, use Brim and ...

    ... no problem at all ! :)


    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted (edited) · Wolfbite

    I am currently trying Wolfbite MEGA with polycarbonate (Polymaker's PC-Max) and initially it did not perform well.

    However after putting up the bed temp to 100C and putting at least 3 layers on it seems to be working at last. I also tried a couple of prints without a raft and that definitely does not work well. It is still extremely expensive for the amount you get (£20 for 60ml-delivered UK)... particularly regarding the amount you have to use to get it to work.

    Having said that as you can see from the image below there is clearly no lift or warping of the Raft or indeed regarding this very large print itself... impressive so far but the real acid test will be the removal from the glass build plate after I have annealed the print... it's a 2 piece handle for a speargun by the way.











    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    If you would ever have an issue with PLA not sticking well to the glass plate, try my "salt method" first: dissolve some table salt (NaCl) in water, and use that to wipe the glass plate. Let it dry into a thin mist of salt stuck to the glass. This gives an excellent bonding when hot (60°C), and no bonding at all when cold (20°C). Salt and water cost you nothing.

    - For Ultimaker and colorFabb PLA: excellent bonding, no corners lifting at all, no need to use brims or whatever.

    - For ICE-PLA: still good bonding, but not perfect: occasionally corners of difficult objects (big, 100% filled) do lift a bit.

    But it only works for PLA, not for ABS. I have not tried any other materials.

    See the PDF manual and pictures also:


  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • Talking additive | The 3D printing podcast
        Why should we be the only ones asking questions? Join us and ask Jabil all your questions on September 22nd 5pm CET
          • Like
        • 3 replies
      • Ultimaker masterclass: Optimizing your Ultimaker Cura workflow
        Save your seat for either broadcast on September 23.
        What will you learn?
        · Best practices for iterative print preparation and every lesson you should learn from each print
        · The right way to use per-object settings and when they are most useful
        · Easy-to-use resources for anyone who wants to develop their own printer definitions, plugins, or print profiles
        · How to optimize print profile settings and whether to “keep” or “discard” changes
        · When is the right time to export your drawing from CAD? (Based on Ultimaker Cura’s surprising power as 3D control software)
        · And a whole lot more tips and tricks!
        How can I join?
        This free masterclass will take place twice:
        1. 11am CEST (5pm SGT, 5am EDT)
        2. 5pm CEST (11am EDT, 8am PDT, 11pm SGT)
          • Like
        • 0 replies
      • Do you use 3D printing at work? Let us know
        It doesn't matter if you are using 1 Ultimaker or 10, there is inspiration in everything. We're looking for ...
        • 1 reply
    • Create New...