35watt heater heats up in half time.
please forgive me if I am asking a dumb question Carl, but is there anything special about the installation of the 35W heater i.e. do I need to make amendments to the firmware or will it just work. For the moment I am only printing in PLA and XT so nothing too exotic
It will just work!
Make sure it is fully inserted, and tighten with provided (intentionally) flimsy screwdriver with the force of a female, so as not to overtighten. Overtightening can disfigure the cartridge making it impossible to remove.
with the force of a female.....
This is customer support rep for 3d printer sales company in Nederland?
I think she's the person who tightened the 4 thumb screws on my Ultimaker2ext! Those were hard to unscrew!
2
OK, lets talk about Retraction versus Vertical Lift.
I am using Simplify 3D and it gives me the option to do a Vertical Lift while retracting.
You guys mentioned that the I2K insulator helps prevent damage to the PTFE Coupler from direct contact with the Hot End Isolator. But during retraction, hot plastic can be pulled up past the I2K and contact the PTFE Coupler directly.
Retraction is used to help prevent stringing and ozzing, right? Especially when crossing open areas, right?
So.... Would it be to best to turn off retraction for closed, single body objects? Does retraction have any benefit in these situations?
When there are voids to cross, would it make sense to set the retraction distance short and add a vertical lift? I think by default the retraction is set to 4mm.
I am learning a lot. Thank you everyone.
I think the retraction default is 4.5mm
Yes on closed body's the retraction can be off with no issues.
I guess vertical lift is the same as Z-hop in cura. I find this not the best solution. It does work but you can still get blobs or fat lines where the z hop first ends and starts.
Most models only call for a few retractions per minute so it wouldn't be to bad. only when you have models where its retracting every few seconds for a long time. in this case you would be want to print quite cold to help eliminate defects.
I just pulled my printer apart to try the 1.75mm conversion and the PTFE coupler and I2K was just like new with many hours of printing at 260deg.
with no retractions i2k cools the bottom surface of the ptfe part to 100C versus 250C (assuming nozzle at 250C). This is huge.
Remember that 4.5mm retraction at the feeder may translate to zero retraction at the head. Possibly. Most of that 4.5mm is coming from the bowden - if you have tons of retractions you can watch at the top of the arch of the bowden as the pla moves up to the top and down to the bottom of the tube. The actual retraction inside the head is... I don't know. Zero? Probably more than zero.
So you are correct that heat gets transferred to the ptfe but how much? I really don't know.
Yes @gr5: Not much movement upwards inside block/teflon, som "half-melted" slush gets into the teflon at retract. Main thing is, pressure is off to prevent dripping and drooling...
BTW I got an extremely interesting looking writeup from @ultiarjan just now.. he can spill it himself.. belongs somewhere else in here.
I'll start a new topic on the dual olsson block setup for easy switching between abs/pla once I get the parts from @swordriff and ultimaker... should be no more than a few days...
EDIT, here it is:
Edited by GuestDid already a quick temperature test, think it's safe to go for the 2 olsson block setup.
I mounted an old UM2 nozzleblock+hot-end-isolator+teflon into the 2th hole, and put a pt100 in there all the way down to touch the unused nozzle, using my Chinese fake UM2 board as an expensive thermometer 
Fan was set to 0%.
Results: (print temp vs measured in the 2th nozzle)
205 - 46
220 - 57
230 - 66
235 - 66
240 - 66
So it seems to stabilize at 66 degrees, will do another test at higher temperatures once I get all components in.
A simple solution could be installing a Nomex paper (400C heat shield) between the two blocks. I been using it to stop the heat from the heater block from hitting the fancaps (printed on carbonfil) and so far almost a month the paper stays without any brown sign and the fan cap hasn't 'warp'. Isn't cheap, but it can be cut with any scissor and with some stick to anything with some kapton.
Ok, shifting gears a little bit here.
What coupler set up do you recommend for CPE? Should I use the IPM coupler?
What about XT?
IPM doesn't like XT so I guess CPE would be the same. I2k washer works good though.
Edited by GuestIt will just work!
Make sure it is fully inserted, and tighten with provided (intentionally) flimsy screwdriver with the force of a female, so as not to overtighten. Overtightening can disfigure the cartridge making it impossible to remove.
damn, that's why I can't move it anymore 
Which cartridge cant you move?
Did you use a powertool?
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swordriff 119
35watt heater heats up in half time.
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No parts from Ultimaker tonight, so I just placed an order for some parts at Ultimaker support.. will take a few days extra...
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