Hey Sander, totally right - I will add that. Thank you for the contribution!
D is just a connection point, i should call it P in the future for "pressure".
So, if you reach D, you continue at "Have you checked the distance between the nozzle and the printbed?"
At the moment I try to understand how to distinguish between an overheated driver and losing steps. I think that's not totally corret in the chart at the moment.
Lovit!
Hey Sander, totally right - I will add that. Thank you for the contribution!
D is just a connection point, i should call it P in the future for "pressure".
So, if you reach D, you continue at "Have you checked the distance between the nozzle and the printbed?"
At the moment I try to understand how to distinguish between an overheated driver and losing steps. I think that's not totally corret in the chart at the moment.
Thanks for your reply. I editted my reply a little bit because I missed part of your chart and my feedback wasn't completely relevant.
Doesn't a heated driver usually lead to losing steps?
This summer without a fan hitting the board area of my umo+ I got missteps on all the drivers specially z and extruder.
I wonder if one of those infrared/laser temperature sensors would be accurate enough to measure the print head temperature?
They don't always work on shiny objects do they?
And not everyone has one of these, so I was thinking of something down the lines you could easily measure with just a string of filament.. or a water boiler (water always boils at 100ºC for example).
I added the suggestion about the flattened filament. If the markings are too deep it instructs now to reload a new piece of filament and, if it comes to checking the bowden tube, it says "use a new piece of filament to test".
I also thought about a technique for testing the temperature but didn't found any feasible without too much equipment. I will try your idea, I like it! The only problem is, the glass transition temperature is not the same for every type (producer) of filament (as fas as i know).
As much as I know the polulu drivers shut down if the temperature is too high, this leads to losing steps too for sure, but I think thermal overload differs a bit from mechanical overload in how it looks like - anyway - I will tell you as soon as I tested it 
thank you! do you mean the electronic mainboard or the printbed? I also heard that too much heat can soften the filament in the bowden tube.
Edited by Guestthank you! do you mean the electronic mainboard or the printbed? I also heard that too much heat can soften the filament in the bowden tube.
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16256-weird-z-movements
This is the post I did when I got the problem. It solved very fast by turning some air on. The room at that time was at 29C but this summer in spain without any air system the room could reach the 38C. Also it doesn't help the fact that the board it's just at 2cm of the Z motor and that the stepper chips are the ones more exposed to the heat... (Umo+)
Edited by GuestOn 9/8/2015 at 3:51 PM, ataraxis said:Hey,
I had a hard time fixing my extrusion problems. It works now, but for the future I created a flowchart.
It is - for sure - not complete and not perfect (endless loops, inconsistent structure etc.), but I think it may help some beginnners. I would also appreciate it, if someone contributes a bit of his/her experience to complete/extend/unbug the chart
Cheers!
WONDERFUL! Other problems can be:
1) If the hotend temperature is too high for the capacity of the heatsink, the filament will increase its diameter near the hotend and get stuck in the PTFE tube.
Symptoms: click of the extruder motor, noozzle clean, the filament is stuck inside the PTFE tube because it has widened (it is better to disassemble the extruder and remove the filament from there, so that the enlarged part of the filament makes a shorter path to go out and does not risk breaking inside)
2) Coil rolled up badly
Symptoms: extruder motor clicks, clean noozzle, worn filament where the extruder knurled wheel is (I think, this has never happened to me)
3) If the wheels of the extruder carriage are worn out because they are too narrow, the carriage will no longer move in a linear but sinosoid way. The noozzle will therefore be too close to the plate in some places and too far in others. To solve the problem, the wheels must be replaced.
Edited by iacoposk8
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SandervG 1,521
Hi Thank you for creating this chart!
I will run it down our tech department too, to see what they think of it.
Is it based on the Ultimaker 2 or Ultimaker Original?
Because the Original usually doesn't 'click' (the feeder) but the Ultimaker 2 doesn't have an electronics fan.
For the Ultimaker 2, I don't believe the reason of the clicking is the driver becoming to hot.
The current on the motor is on the low end of the spectrum, so instead of grinding (when the friction increases) it starts skipping. Cause: somewhere down the line friction increased.
Can be because the speed/temp is out of balance, or friction increased in the bowden, or the ptfe/teflon deformed, or your nozzle has dirt in it.
What does 'D' mean?
Maybe we could expand this with pictures, like.. what are clear markings on the knurled wheel etc?
Another plausible cause when the filament is difficult to move through the bowden tube, is that it got flattened and became to wide. So another step should be; try another piece of new filament.
Potentially you could also add a technique to test if your PT100 works accurately, to test if 100ºC is actually 100ºC. This can be done for example pushing a piece of filament against the heaterblock at 80ºC, it should start to deform due to the heat.
Does anyone have a better way of testing the PT100 without fancy equipment?
Edited by GuestLink to post
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