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lukem96

Nothing is sticking! Even PLA!

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Hello community,

Okay for some reason the last few days my ultimaker 2 has been playing up, nothing is sticking to the build plate and its driving me crazy.

What i have tried:

re leveling (like a hundred times)

cleaning the build plate

using the glue stick/hair spray

The Normal/high quality/ ultra quality settings on cura

build plate at 50 - 60 degrees

a few different types of PLA (which have worked fine previously)

Basically what is happening is it isn't sticking and everything is just getting dragged by the nozzle, i don't know what else to suggest, anyone have any ideas?

Thank you very much!

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what did you clean the build plate with?

Make sure you use isopropyl alcohol.

What nozzle temp are you set at. some times if its to low its to gummy and drags with the nozzle

 

Would this be good?

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Super-And-Glass-Stainless-Steel-Cleaner-750ml/p/114455

And between 200-220 with no luck:(

Thanks for the reply! Apreciate it

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I use window cleaner brand 'cristasol' typical here in spain and it's components are Isopropul alcohol 5-15% + ethyl alcohol 5-15% + perfume... It works great and I had zero problems so far with pla/carbonfill (it what I print most). Also every now and then I scratch the glass with a metal spatula or took it out and clean it with hot water and a sponge.

Edited by Guest

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touch the plate and see if if feels warm, if not then you need to sort that, otherwise maybe the model is floating in cura from unknown reason, or the glue is not holding or the nozzle is not close enough. with the glue i use, the heated bed doesnt really make much difference to be honest. heat up the pla too hot at the start to ensure it melts a bit on the first layer as well.

And do some atomic pulls for luck, in case a tiny jam is preventing the right amount of pla from leaving the nozzle.

Edited by Guest

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Sorry, pressed enter too soon...

Pla doesn't need heat to stick. The best and cleanest way to make it stick well every time is to use painter's tape. Any brand will work... Change it once in awhile to keep it clean. Make sure you remove any dust before printing. For abs, the best method is to use an abs / acetone slurry. I use kipton tape on the glass if I use a slurry... It makes it easier to clean.

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For PLA the hotter the first layer the better. once you got that down youre good to go cooler for the rest. I've never used the tape and imagine it a hassle. I also rarely change the glue on my bed, so i think just find what works for you and your workflow. If your always in a hurry like me the tape is a no go as it needs to be replaced and also means the bottom is not as smooth as on glass/thin glue, its no deal breaker if you a desperate, but its not need at all in my honest opinion. The main issue with the Ultimaker is that the heat varies during the first layer as it equalises and goes hotter and cooler quite drastically so sometimes is laying down too cool, which is why i always turn the heat up for the first layer.

Just practise and you'll get the hang of it. If you have trouble with it sticking, try again starting hotter and hotter until it does, then just dial it down slowly.

Edited by Guest

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My experience with pla without glue on heated bed it's that each pla sticks to different temps. Of course you need to keep it well clean (I use window cleaner before each print). For BQ cheap filament I go with 50-55 for colorfabb I stay at 60-65 and for Faberdashery I use highter first layer temp or set the bed to 70. No warping on large surfaces so far unless I forget to adjust the settings.

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The info about their plastic:

http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/4043D-PLA-Material-info.pdf

It's one of the best pla makers, I think the other best it's DiamondAge, but that one it's hard and expensive to import to europe. I use them very much because the colors for my stuff and the quality of the filament it's really one of the bests out there. On 3mm the price it's like colorfabb I think. And they sell by meters, only a few colors are on spool.

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My experience with pla without glue on heated bed it's that each pla sticks to different temps. Of course you need to keep it well clean (I use window cleaner before each print). For BQ cheap filament I go with 50-55 for colorfabb I stay at 60-65 and for Faberdashery I use highter first layer temp or set the bed to 70. No warping on large surfaces so far unless I forget to adjust the settings.

 

Is the dependence you found only between brands or also between different colors of the same brand?

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Not much for colors but brands. I print with 5 different faberdashery colors and 3 colorfabb. BQ cheap also sticks like glue even at 50. Faber to keep the speed 70 goes fine but reading my notes I have a warning for bubblegum pink faber to slow down the first layer 5%.

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I did looooong ago a small acetone test, nothing like the baths you use to polish them, it was with Peppermint Cream and it did show a bit of de-coloring, some cracks, and on a minor point some cleaning on the lines. But I did bath a piece for a night on only 1 cm of acetone and didn't show anything special. Again, my experience with acetone it's just that experience :DI was trying to make it look like old plastic, was an epic fail.

Edited by Guest

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Actually the tape doesn't need to be replaced. It takes a minute or so to put on, and rarely need replacing because you do not need to remove the tape to remove print. It is much cleaner than using glue and the bottom is actually very smooth. Maybe you should try it before making a judgment... ; )

cheers.

 

For PLA the hotter the first layer the better. once you got that down youre good to go cooler for the rest. I've never used the tape and imagine it a hassle. I also rarely change the glue on my bed, so i think just find what works for you and your workflow. If your always in a hurry like me the tape is a no go as it needs to be replaced and also means the bottom is not as smooth as on glass/thin glue, its no deal breaker if you a desperate, but its not need at all in my honest opinion. The main issue with the Ultimaker is that the heat varies during the first layer as it equalises and goes hotter and cooler quite drastically so sometimes is laying down too cool, which is why i always turn the heat up for the first layer.

Just practise and you'll get the hang of it. If you have trouble with it sticking, try again starting hotter and hotter until it does, then just dial it down slowly.

 

Edited by Guest

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Maybe i should! Thanks for the advice, im going to be using an ultimaker original for the first time and and worried the lack of heat bed may not hold my objects down, but also worry that the tape wont render a perfect flat bottom that needs to join onto another perfectly flat bottom. I guess ill find out, i just cant imagine tape being as smooth as glass. But ill find out soon enough...

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Maybe i should! Thanks for the advice, im going to be using an ultimaker original for the first time and and worried the lack of heat bed may not hold my objects down, but also worry that the tape wont render a perfect flat bottom that needs to join onto another perfectly flat bottom. I guess ill find out, i just cant imagine tape being as smooth as glass. But ill find out soon enough...

 

I have 2 UMOs and no HB and have not used tape for a year with PLA - just dilute PVA glue on glass. I do keep tape under the glass for when I need to print XT which I think prefers a HB

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I just used the tape for the first time, and if im honest, i feel sorry for anyone using it. Its like living in the stone age, and the umo, well.... the um2 is like a dream compared to that convoluted madness of a machine with so many pointless settings and random controls in the control panel even the guy showing me how to use it forgot where simple things like change filament was or how to stop it extruding filament, lol. Printing on that tape SUCKS compared to heated glass btw, as its not my printer i didn't do the PVA, but will maybe ask someone to print a thing or two for me online as i'm so far behind on my project. If you have a umo the UM2 kicks its ass hands down start saving to upgrade. heated bed is a fricking dream compared to the umo which seems to simply stop printing when there is not enough filament from the layer before underneath it (the um2 prints great in thin air saving a failed print). Total nightmare if your trying to print tons at once, i can only imagine a high failure rate on multiple object prints.....and im not even gonna go into the bed leveling nightmare....lol. Never what to use that machine again.

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