Silicone Heat Pad For UM2go

[Labern 774]

I had done a few small prints on my UM2go with CPE and it worked ok till i printed one with a bigger base.

So I found a $15 silicon heat pad that's 24v 10w and the perfect size.

So my question is, If i plug this in with a flat PT100 on it, will this work or kill my UM2go?

Some concerns I have are is the power supply big enough to handle another 10w?

am i able to tell the firmware that a heat pad is present?

Or will the main board just release its smoke?

[tinkergnome 926]

am i able to tell the firmware that a heat pad is present?

 

At least this part should be pretty easy - it will need a tiny bit of reconfiguration and a recompile,

but i'm sure you can do it!

(Or send me PM if you need help with this...)

[Labern 774]

 

am i able to tell the firmware that a heat pad is present?

 

At least this part should be pretty easy - it will need a tiny bit of reconfiguration and a recompile,

but i'm sure you can do it!

(Or send me PM if you need help with this...)

 

Thanks, I have ordered the parts and give it a try so I may ask you in the near future to point me in the right direction..

[SandervG 1,519]

I'll be keeping an eye on you Curious to see where you are taking this!

[ultiarjan 1,222]

Except for the power supply (no idea what kind is sold with the "go") I think you can safely do this, I just checked and the resistance of an UM2 heated bed is about 110 ohm same as an PT100, so I assume it's pt100 in there.

I had to heat an E3D block I had around cause I needed to get the nozzle out of it (don't use the E3D), so I just connected it's heater to the heated bed output and the pt100 to the heated bed sensor input, it works fine ... (used a Chinese copy UM2 board I have to play with...)

Only thing is it overshoots a lot (10 degrees..) before you get a stable temp in this setup but I assume thats because a small block heats much more quick. If you have a very small heatpad it may also heat a lot quicker than a full UM2 heatbed so you may need to tweak settings...

Just curious, where did you find the small heat pad?

[Labern 774]

It's just one from eBay. 120 mm square. I have seen that some people use them on reprap printers so should be good for a test.

Thanks for the info, I ordered a small slim PT100 so will try that.

Power Supply is 125W so from my reading 5W more then UM0. Seeing it's a 10W heat pad I'm hoping it won't struggle to much. I will try to test it while printing to see what it's drawing.

[gr5 2,071]

I have done some analasis on what the power supply can do. 10 Watts will be fine as far as power consumption. You can go a bit higher. But you won't be able to print ABS - not sure if that is even enough power to get to 60C unfortunately.

yes it's just a pt100 on the bed also. And you can use normal solder (unlike the temp sensor in the head) as it will never get above 200C (of course!).

Labern - I need to talk to you offline... will message you.

[tinkergnome 926]

I have ordered the parts and give it a try...

 

@Labern - any news about this? Is it working?

[neotko 1,417]

@Gr5 now has a heater bed kit for um2go. Just found it by passing by.

Btw this might not be the place, and migt not be posible because the advertising policy of the forum (that makes perfect sense indeed), but could it be posible to have a ticker/tag/sticker on the posts, something like 'advertising' for sellers and creators of mods that they want to sell. This way readers know that isn't a independent post and they can get information from sellers about t new, probably interesting, stuff.

[SandervG 1,519]

Hi @Neotko,

That is a grey area. Have you read the house rules?

Our main objective is to keep the forum fun, educational and informal. The way we handle promotion or advertising from third parties now is that it is not allowed to plainly promote your/another product. That is neither informal, nor inspiring or fun.

It is allowed tho if mentioning an upgrade, hack or mod does contribute to the conversation.

Hope this makes sense.

It requires a tight shift in moderating, but we think that is best for everyone.

[neotko 1,417]

Makes sense indeed.

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

 

@neotko: The heated bed kit you saw: That's actually a 3dSolex product...

[neotko 1,417]

@neotko: The heated bed kit you saw: That's actually a 3dSolex product...

 

Yes indeed. That's why I said that would be nice to know when third parties make stuff like this.

[gr5 2,071]

Every product made by 3dsolex has been mentioned by now on the forum I think. This um2go heated bed upgrade was the only thing not mentioned... until now. "swordriff" who owns 3dsolex and I ("gr5") both started selling those about a week ago. You can always go to 3dsolex once per month - there's usually something new there every month or two and only about 25 things to look through that are for sale. Swordriff is always coming up with new products to fill needs. Let him know what you think he should sell next - maybe plexiglass covers for UM2? dual printing kit? safety shutoffs? It's sometimes easy to get him to work on your own pet project.

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Although I'm running a flagship store for 3dSolex products as @gr5 I have to say that I actually prefer not having direct ads here on the forum. As @SandervG pointed out it should be a source where people find (relatively*) independent information.

*as far as it is possible on a manufacturer-run platform - so far, Ultimaker was very open about critical statements...

[ultiarjan 1,222]

With so many people/moderators on this forum being 3dsolex resellers, maybe one of them can tell us a bit more on the "go" heated bed. I think it's a good thing it's here and I never understood why it's not in by default ....

I feel specially moderators should be restrained in linking to there own webstore's. Nevertheless we should be able to discuss all the great stuff that @swordriff brings us!

So what I hear/know sofar about the heated bed:

- it's a silicon heater with adhesive to stick under the bed.

- it has the PT100 build in (stick to it)

- it uses a firmware trick to be able to keep using the underpowered PSU, by alternating between heating the head and the bed.

- this requires a more powerfull heater in the head.

Some questions.

-Will the temperature of the head be just as stable as before with the new firmware?

-What's the max temp of the bed?

-Is there some sort of cable management in the kit? braided sleeve?

[DidierKlein 729]

Here is a picture of it

I didn't install it yet. From what i know you need a 35w heater (it's shipped with one) if you want to print ABS (thus heat up to 110 - 120°c).

There is a version of the firmware based on the excellent one by @tinkergnome

No Braided sleeve

@gr5 can probably tell more about the rest

[Labern 774]

 

I have ordered the parts and give it a try...

 

@Labern - any news about this? Is it working?

 

I received all the parts, found the the heater pad interfered with the 2 front clips. I cut sections out but had to patch the element. I installed it all ready to wire but found out about the 3D solex one. So I never progressed further.

[gr5 2,071]

Some questions.

-Will the temperature of the head be just as stable as before with the new firmware?

-What's the max temp of the bed?

-Is there some sort of cable management in the kit? braided sleeve?

 

Regarding the 3dsolex kit. There is no braid or any kind of cable holder. Maybe IRobertI will design a cable guide for us some day.

The bed can easily get to the same temp as the UM2 when the UM2 is at 100C. The UM2 sensor is near the edge which is a bit cooler which means the center of the bed in both cases can get to about 105C just fine which is good for ABS. The 3dsolex kit bed actually heats much faster than the um2 heated bed. Especially when going all the way to 100c.

The temperature of the head is just as stable because it gets priority in the new firmware.

[Labern 774]

So I just received my Heat bed kit yesterday and have Installed it and so far its awesome.

So much nice printing straight onto clean glass.

Got sick of sticking tape on all the time.

Didn't take long to install and was really easy to do. Just stick it on and plug in the wires.

I Put on some Braid as it doesn't come with any just to keep it tidy and looking like a factory UM2

[valcrow 144]

Nice! fully loaded UM2go.

What's that blue thing where the spring is suppose to be ontop of the PTFE?

[Labern 774]

Spring replacement spacer. To stop the spring tension pushing on the PTFE coupler and deformity it. It's also good to stop the nozzle pulling up during atomic pulls and any movement during retractions.

I normally have my fan shroud on there but it's being used elsewhere

[ultiarjan 1,222]

Nice! fully loaded UM2go.

What's that blue thing where the spring is suppose to be ontop of the PTFE?

 

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-spring-replacement

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-spring-replacement-for-i2k

If you use Korneels original version with the olson block print it about 1 mm shorter (print upside down and sink 1 mm in cura)

[ultiarjan 1,222]

So I just received my Heat bed kit yesterday and have Installed it and so far its awesome.

So much nice printing straight onto clean glass.

Got sick of sticking tape on all the time.

Didn't take long to install and was really easy to do. Just stick it on and plug in the wires.

I Put on some Braid as it doesn't come with any just to keep it tidy and looking like a factory UM2

 

I was thinking it might be a good addition to also add a clip to fix the wire to the back of the main bed plate to avoid tension on the tape it's covered with, not sure if its needed but I would keep an eye on it...

[Labern 774]

 

So I just received my Heat bed kit yesterday and have Installed it and so far its awesome.

So much nice printing straight onto clean glass.

Got sick of sticking tape on all the time.

Didn't take long to install and was really easy to do. Just stick it on and plug in the wires.

I Put on some Braid as it doesn't come with any just to keep it tidy and looking like a factory UM2

 

I was thinking it might be a good addition to also add a clip to fix the wire to the back of the main bed plate to avoid tension on the tape it's covered with, not sure if its needed but I would keep an eye on it...

 

Yeah. I was going to have the wires come out the back and have a clip but the wires come out in the center where the spring is for the rear adjuster. I will come up with something though