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Labern's Fan Shroud made by a Stratasys

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Alright. So I've been working on upgrading my printer with various items. I've recently added the Olsson Block and recently after I added it I also added a new fan shroud designed by @Labern. I printed it with ColorFabb XT and it turned out great. Pretty soon I came up with an error for the heater. After some asking around on the chat room, and a close inspection of my new hothead and the area around it, I found that that material from the XT had melted and was actually in contact with the heater block. Now, I don't know if this new one will solve the issue, but at school we have 2 Stratasys printers (a Dimension 1200es and a Fortus 450). After I asked my 3D CAD teacher about the issue I asked if I could use one of the Stratasys printers to print a fan shroud, same model from Labern, with a material that could withstand the heat from the nozzle. After a small payment for the material used I now have the same model, and man... It looks AWESOME! So here are some pictures of the old fan shroud (red - ColorFabb XT) and the new one (tan - Stratasys Ultem 9085). If you all want me to keep you all updated on this let me know. It's been a great learning experience!

Error... :(Sad day

IMG_2147_zpsvicvghdq.jpg

Hmm... Issue

IMG_2177_zps5kyk2ihx.jpg

IMG_2176_zpsib9wqg7g.jpg

Comparison

IMG_2178_zpsm7bswihb.jpg

Stratasys Ultem 9085 fan shroud

IMG_2179_zpsmuqjsn5m.jpg

Installed

IMG_2180_zpses1s1wlu.jpg

Edited by Guest

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Cool, Looks good. Would be good to see how it goes.

I have printed mine in XT-CF20 and have a layer of thick Kapton tape on it and have found that it works well without deforming. But its good you have something better that should withstand the heat.

Good that there are still people in the chat room. Im still waiting for @SandervG to put one on the new forum :p

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1) Try to make sure the shroud is blowing on the part and not the nozzle - you don't want it to cool the nozzle or block.  A few tiny pieces of kapton tape may help with this - they can be found at pretty much any electronics soldering station - it's a brownish, yellowish tape.  aka polyimide tape.  It can handle something crazy - I think 600C ?  300C?  I forget but it can be right on the block.

2) Maybe get a more powerful heater - I sell a 35W heater also.  I haven't had to go this route.

3) Turn fans on slowly over at least 1mm.  If they come on from 0% to 100% the PID controller panics.

4) The way this error is actually created is as follows - understanding it helps you fix the problem - basically having the fans come on slowly is probably all you need to do:

 

You get an error if the heater can't move a certain amount in a certain time while driving full power (when it is close to goal temp it typically runs well below full power):

Firmware

Version

14.09                - does not have the feature

14.12   oct 16, 2014 - feature introduced. 20C in 20 Seconds

14.12.1 dec 15, 2014 - from 20C to 10C (still in 20 seconds)

15.01   jan 14, 2015 - from 20 secs to 30 secs (now 10C in 30 seconds)

 

So basically it would help to make sure you have firmware 15.01 and not older.  And also bring fans on slowly, lol.

Edited by Guest

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1) Try to make sure the shroud is blowing on the part and not the nozzle - you don't want it to cool the nozzle or block.  A few tiny pieces of kapton tape may help with this - they can be found at pretty much any electronics soldering station - it's a brownish, yellowish tape.  aka polyimide tape.  It can handle something crazy - I think 600C ?  300C?  I forget but it can be right on the block.

2) Maybe get a more powerful heater - I sell a 35W heater also.  I haven't had to go this route.

3) Turn fans on slowly over at least 1mm.  If they come on from 0% to 100% the PID controller panics.

4) The way this error is actually created is as follows - understanding it helps you fix the problem - basically having the fans come on slowly is probably all you need to do:

 

You get an error if the heater can't move a certain amount in a certain time while driving full power (when it is close to goal temp it typically runs well below full power):

Firmware

Version

14.09                - does not have the feature

14.12   oct 16, 2014 - feature introduced. 20C in 20 Seconds

14.12.1 dec 15, 2014 - from 20C to 10C (still in 20 seconds)

15.01   jan 14, 2015 - from 20 secs to 30 secs (now 10C in 30 seconds)

 

So basically it would help to make sure you have firmware 15.01 and not older.  And also bring fans on slowly, lol.

 

Ok. I'm not sure what the latest version that's out now, but I have it. Where would I get the different firmwares?

 

Hi

I really like lay burns check out my Nylon version5a331052e5cb7_FanShroud.thumb.jpg.7be2ab31fad1f23d17262c8c60e9ad98.jpg

 

Thank you for the image!!! It helps out a ton!

The issue that I'm having now is that, I can't tell where it's touching. Going off of my XT print it seems to be the right side, based off of Bob's photo. But with my Stratasys print, it's still giving me issues.

*Update* I know that it is something to do with the fan shroud. The printer works fine without the fan shroud attached. I was able to get a couple layers down. Whereas before I couldn't get an entire layer down.

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Your printer should be able to tell you what version is has - it's in one of the menus.

The marlin version (marlin is the firmware) matches the version number of the Cura that contains it. You can get older versions of cura at the same place you get cura - there is an "see all versions" link. Start here:

software.ultimaker.com

Cura doesn't overwrite other versions so you can install 5 different versions of Cura and run them all at once or one at a time or whatever. They are treated as separate installations of *different* products.

Hook up a USB cable to the printer to update the firmware. The version you have now is probably fine as long as it isn't version 14.12 or 14.12.1.

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Your printer should be able to tell you what version is has - it's in one of the menus.

The marlin version (marlin is the firmware) matches the version number of the Cura that contains it.  You can get older versions of cura at the same place you get cura - there is an "see all versions" link.  Start here:

software.ultimaker.com

Cura doesn't overwrite other versions so you can install 5 different versions of Cura and run them all at once or one at a time or whatever.  They are treated as separate installations of *different* products.

Hook up a USB cable to the printer to update the firmware.  The version you have now is probably fine as long as it isn't version 14.12 or 14.12.1.

 

Ya. It's 15.02.1 on my printer and Cura is 15.04.2...

Edited by Guest

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So I just started another print.

I had the same error pop up, but something that I noticed this time, and I don't know if this happened on the other times, but my dial wheel is changing colors... I've never noticed that before. Any ideas? I updated the firmware as was suggested by @gr5.

Correction... I'm still over 15.01. Going to do that now. :)

Edited by Guest

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It changes colour when the machine has an error and this is normal.

Did you try to change the height the fans reach full? So they come on more slowly? Some versions of Cura have it set to 0.5mm this can make it very fast for them to reach if the object is small. You could make it 2mm or even higher.

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It changes colour when the machine has an error and this is normal.

Did you try to change the height the fans reach full? So they come on more slowly? Some versions of Cura have it set to 0.5mm this can make it very fast for them to reach if the object is small. You could make it 2mm or even higher.

 

Yes I did that. And I believe that that did it. I've had a print going for the past 3-4 hours and it's looking amazing!!!! Thank you everyone, @labern @gr5 @bob-hepple, for all your help! I really appreciate everything!

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