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Grinding??


lukem96

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Stick it in at like 210 degrees c and then dial it down to 90 after you run through some filament. Make sure you push filament through the nozzle during the time its at 210 though as the whole point is to press it against the insides of the nozzle so that when it cools and you pull it out, it pulls off any crap on the sides. your tip should look like a pencil.

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    P1210470.thumb.JPG.767f94dce4dc5077a3060d7920943ea8.JPG

    What else can i do to try and clean the nozzle if you think that is the problem?

    Thank you!

    This looks like the problem is in your PTFE part (the white thing). If you are unable to get a good pull after a few attempts, it's most likely that there is a gap, lip or an internal diameter expansion on your PTFE part.

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    Yep, impossible to achieve atomic pulls means the PFTE is dead. But in my experience.

    If this is the result of pulling at 90c cooled from 210, then you need to change it. Have you ever seen it perfect? or are you just learning for the first time now, as it may be that you are no doing it right still?

    20150426_145409.thumb.jpg.c3c0b9fd35e088bdfe7df3faf94bd42d.jpg

     

    The bottom pic is the shape you are going for.

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    Posted · Grinding??

    Oh damn, mine looks nothing like that bottom one:(

    i put it in at 200, push it through for a bit, then put it to 90, keep pushing till its at like 140, then wait for it to go to 90 then pull it out, some times if i leave it in there too long its really hard to pull out and the filament breaks.

    Does my one look like a bad ptfe?

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    Posted · Grinding??

    one side of it is really rough and indented, what could this mean?

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    Posted (edited) · Grinding??

    Thats just the filament feeder marks, thats fine, if it breaks on you when pulling out though, most likely your pfte is dead. this happened to me after about 9 months of printing. change it and you should be good to do the atomic pulls again nicely, but i had hydraulic pressure when i installed a new one, but after i burnt it in once with a failed print it doesn't move any more as i assume some pla has been fused in the gap which is great ironically. But if you don't change the PFTE then you will never be able to clean your nozzle correctly and therefore not be able to print once its jammed.

    You can still print stuff using a work around, but if you can clean your nozzle, then get a new pfte and things WILL improve.

    The pfte thing should really be advertised as a thing to keep an eye on, and if you never have any problems and they start happening a lot, then its a good place to start. It WILL fail on you so be ready to change it. There is no avoiding changing it, its easy and only takes 5-20 minutes if you look at the guide, but pay close attention to how things should look after, all the spacing is very important or else you will have more problems, and leaks and more filament jams.

    Edited by Guest
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    Posted · Grinding??

    Thanks for the help really appreciate it!

    I've taken the nozzle apart and got the PFTE and it doesn't really look deformed, its a bit burnt but the structure doesn't look damaged, I've ordered a nozzle bundle thing that has the PFTE in so will try that, but it looks like its more to do with the block of metal that heats up, whats the best way to properly clean this?

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    Posted (edited) · Grinding??

    Just take the the head apart carefully, taping the sides of the things that hold it together to make it easier to put back, and then unscrew all the screws that you need to get to the nozzle itself. then heat it up and get a tissue, and rub all the melted plasic of it without getting burnt too much, as its quite difficult lol. I used a cotton bud and twisted a tissue. Just try and remove all the plastic that you can. If its cool it will take you 100 times longer than if its hot, as its almost impossible to remove the tiny bits of plastic in the screw that the nozzle and pfte go into.

    My pfte didnt look that bad to me, but others told me it was seriously fried. I saw it had visible deformed and melted at one side and th walls had given way somewhat. Then try do do pulls again. you NEED to be able to do pulls correctly as that is the secret to cleaning this printer, even though its not a secret, but so many people just dont seem to be doing them right. They need to look like in my pics or you will never get good prints again.

    Then put it all back together!

    Like i said, 99% of all grinding is down to improper cleaning, and it should be advertised as such rather than even suggesting other reasons as i often see many people suggesting, when it usually always comes back to the blocked nozzle. I often blamed the feeder strength, or the mechanism, or wrongly sized filament or bowden tube or this or that but its just a nozzle jam, big or small IT IS responsible for the clicking sounds, as the filament is getting retracted due to excessive pressure.

    Edited by Guest
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    Damn - why you order the nozzle bundle - you should be getting an olsson block if you are going to pay that much! Just get the ptfe from 3dsolex.com. Do you really have 6 months of printing already? I had the impression this machine was still new. ptfe parts may look fine but they can be very soft at 220C when they degrade. So it's hard to tell.

    Anyway seeing your photo of the cell phone case it looks like it has HUNDREDS of retractions each layer. Your problem *might* be a partially clogged nozzle - and this is good practice to find the exact right temperature for atomic pulls (you might want 85C or 95C just keep playing with that).

    HOWEVER, I still think your main problem is too many retractions. Just change the "minimum extrusion before retracting" in cura to 0.45 and reslice and I bet it won't grind. Did you ever try that? I posted this advice as the very first suggestion maybe? And it won't cost you any money!

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    Posted · Grinding??

    gr 5 i think my original problem was too many retractions but where the print kept failing i think it caused more problems in the nozzle. Yes i did try it, i think it did work better but i was still having problems so it was hard to tell, but does make sense.

    I have done just over 1000 hours so yes the pfte is due to be changed.

    I've got the head all open, its the part where the pfte goes into, under where that would be i can feel melted plastic in there, just having trouble getting it out.

    Thank you very much!

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    Ah - yes then you definitely need a new ptfe. About 10 euros from 3dsolex.

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    Posted · Grinding??

    Okay, is there any way i can bodge the one i have now so i can use it till it arrives? What is an Olsson block out of interest? Thanks!:)

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    You could try drilling it out but I don't think there's much you can do after 1000 hours.

    What's an olsson block? yikes. It allows you to print with larger or smaller nozzles. Go here:

    3dsolex.com

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    The visibility of the damage to the PTFE part is usually quite minute. It could be just a little bit expanded, or a tiny lip on the edge (where it sits on the brass). If you dunno what you're looking for it could look totally normal.

    You can temporarily repair the PTFE part to extend it's life by a month or so if you clean off the lip that most likely formed at the bottom. Stick a piece of filament in at a slight angle and see if it 'catches' on the edge. If it does, you can use a drillbit or exacto knife to clean the lip off and it should work for a bit.

    If the internal diameter is expanded, you won't be able to fix that manually but that doesn't happen nearly as often as the lip.

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    Posted · Grinding??

    I am still not convinced its just the PFTE, as i have had made the hole bigger, and the filament is getting jammed after it goes through the PFTE just before it comes out the nozzle, if i take the pfte out and try push filament through it still doesn't come out, any suggestions?

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    If you cant get filament coming out the nozzle you have a blocked nozzle. If you cant clean it just buy a new one and make sure you learn how to clean it properly before the buildup is impossible to remove for the next time.

    But you shoukd be able to clean it if it was printing recently. Do the atomic pulls without the pfte. And be prepared to do a LOT of them.

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    Posted · Grinding??

    Are you saying do the atomic pull with the nozzle disassembled and the pfte out?

    thanks!

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    Hi Luke you have not answered the earlier important question, does the first case print completely or is just the 1st layer or so you are talking about? If the answer is that it does print completely then that is very strange when you say you have selected "print at once"; more understandable if you have selected "print one at a time". We need t get an accurate picture as to what you have asked the printer to do so we can match what is happening against that.

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    Posted (edited) · Grinding??

    Id try to clean everything and do the atomic pulls as normal, if not try without the pfte, i guess, anything to try clean it. Try to do loads of atomic pulls the best you can and see if they improve. Like i said already i did 35 odd once, but they did look pointy and good from the start.

    I seem to remember mine breaking to after changing a pfte due to leakage cos of hydraulic pressure, so just keep trying to get at least a bit of whats in the head and go from there. Maybe try pulling out before 90 like maybe 95 or 100? I had to do that for a while. Its why i didnt get the full bullet shape for the first pulls in my picture above.

    But just get a new pfte and go from there as you really need to be able to do atomic pulls.

    Edited by Guest
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    Just for the hell of it - try cutting the filament to a pointy tip - use at least 2 angled cuts rotating the filament on it's axis between cuts. See if that works better for getting things started. This only affects the first 2 minutes of printing. Also try "move material" to see if it's extruding okay - dont' just do it for 1 second - and try not to move the material so fast it starts skipping as that can cause grinding potentially also. Just turn it slowly until you've moved at least 5mm of filament through the feeder.

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