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bob-hepple

OlsonBlock Up and Running But a Few Problems

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Hi Gr5 and Ultiarjan

I have left the pt100 alone it is stuck and I don't really need to remove it as I am cleaning up the block the biggest problem I had was making sure the temp probe stays put I replaced the Philips screw and tightened it heated up the block to 200 it became loose tightened new screw until you couldn't move it. I am using the i2k from 3dsolex, when I used the Korneels space I machines it down to a snug fit between the alloy plates I think this is where I'm wrong, and after my recent experience I tried backing off the the steel coupler but this goes way up and to much thread is showing so I think I need to remake it, so for now I have put the original spring back on which is way tighter than before (i2k) I have done this because time is of the essence I have work for the printer todo. Will post a picture later.

Gr5 yes I get exactly what you say about the temp probes I always thought that 175 was way below what others were using and when I tried the norm 200 it just was a mess

Thanks all will post picture later

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Ok Chaps

Cleaned it all up and the same thing is happening throughout the philips screw hear is a picture

5a3312552842a_leakagain.thumb.JPG.f52c8e0124544fd05713043075e3232c.JPG

this time I have taken a video on iPhone how can I up load it the video, it clearly shows oozing from the screw unless I am blind and can't see something glaringly obvious I would like to share it with you.

The Block was cleaned I am using the original spring with 3dsolex PTFE and Steel coupler along with the i2K

5a3312552842a_leakagain.thumb.JPG.f52c8e0124544fd05713043075e3232c.JPG

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Thanks for the reply, I know the video is lacking a bit in quality it was the best I could do, comes out better on your phone where you can see it bubble up and ooze as I turn the advance wheel (to move material). I'm just gutted after all the work strip, build, strip, build I thought I was getting their, I have ordered a new one from 3dSolex along with 2 new nozzles and a Pt100. I will see if I can get a better video done tomorrow.

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I would say or you did not tighten the nozzle while the block was hot (?) and it's leaking from the nozzle, or you do have a serious damaged block. In that case there would need to be an opening between the cavities containing the heater/pt100 and the fillament feeding hole, which you should be able to simply see I guess....

To test maybe hold you finger on the bottom (nozzle hole) and pour water in the top ? Just thinking out load ... obviously after you demount it again :)

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Hi!

If its not loose nozzle and chinese teflon, then it must be an internal manufacturing glitch in the block.

The seat where the nozzle entry connects with the block is milled out in a CNC machine with a very small delicate tool.

The tool is being replaced at certain intervals, and maybe has broken inside in between service intervals. I can imagine that it could create an internal hole "not present in the drawing"...

3dSolex has shipped your order for parts and added one block at no charge for you.

Did the steel coupler and I2K flood as well?

Thanks and sorry for the trouble!

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Hi swordriff

thank you for your response, On the last strip down last night there was no damage to Teflon or the i2K or the steel coupler, but as stated the pt100 will not come out, I have had heated the block tried pushing it and pulling it I'm afraid it will break. I am on Vacation from tomorrow so no doubt will have the replacement parts by next week end, so will try and fit them then, Hopefully without incident I will throw the corneal spacer I made.

Thank you for your reply and sorry for the persistence.

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I managed to get a half decent multimeter off of eBay or Amazon that also has a temperature probe (AideTek.com. VC99+), I noticed that some people were mentioning a variety of print temperatures so I used it to verify my set up that the UM2 display readout was accurate. It was also handy to check the temperature at various points on the print head unit.

Running with the Olson block and with an uprated 35W heater my set up is running well.

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I'm using the 37mm yoke and I get one good print then when I re start print the feeder grind a notch so I'm going to go to a 38mm yoke, wanted to know if I'm heading in the right direction. Also since using the Olson block at 193d I'm getting a lot of stringing. Teething troubles I know but have work todo and see, to be spending a lot of time getting printer right rather than RND for which I got the machine for. Moan over.

Thanks for the reply.

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Hi bob,

i'm far away from being a feeder expert... but IMHO - you're actually heading to the right direction with the 38mm yoke. :)

Regardless of the used feeder chassis the rule of thumb should be: put as less pressure on the filament as possible - respectively: put only as much pressure on it to avoid slipping - but keep the deforming of the filament as small as possible.

The latter is even more important for flexible filaments.

Regarding stringing:

The heating zone is a bit longer on the Olsson block - i can print approx. 5°C cooler than with the stock one (same material) and i changed the retraction settings to 5.10mm at 35mm/s.

That works great for me - but you probably have to experiment a bit with these settings.

Don't give up - it's worth the effort!

Edit: as a small addition -

If you want to use flexible filaments: do yourself a favor, disable retractions and accept the stringing - any success with FlexiFil, a bowden setup and enabled retractions is very unlikely...

Edited by Guest

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