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Need advice on replacing the extruder head

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Posted · Need advice on replacing the extruder head


I need some advice on buying a replacement extruder head for my ultimaker origianal (not plus)

I have the first generation head (with the long screw hot end) and it's extremely worn down to the point where I cannot print anything without it peeling off.

I've found this extrusion head replacement on eBay. But am unsure if it is 100% the correct one for replacement.



Best Regards

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Posted · Need advice on replacing the extruder head

In terms of overall measures, it looks fine and will fit in your mount I'm sure... But... Is it any good? I dunno...

It looks like (is) a cheap China clone of the UMO hotend, so you never really know what you are gonna get...

There are alternatives to the UMO hotend out there (j-head, ubis, E3D, Merlin etc.), did you consider those? - You will of course have some trouble printing a new hotend mount if your printer is completely useless as is...

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Posted · Need advice on replacing the extruder head

I have buy many stuff from china and if you check the review from buyers you can get a decend idea if it will work or give troubles.

The peek isn't glass peek like the ultimaker so buy many or never print beyond 250C. The heater should work but check the voltage. The Aluminium block they use to sell fits with their heater sensors but they sell it without the molex conector so get ready to do some soldering (probably). The nozzles in my experience are quite 'meh' so don't expect precision. Overall will it work? Yes, but you will loose some quality.

The stuff you could get at ebay/china/aliexpress I recommend it's the barrel isolator (the one inside the peek), the white isolator ptfe coupler (cheaper but last less time unless you use a fan on the peek area) and the aluminium peek holder (the one with 4 holes). The other parts for precision and quality, get them to ultimaker or plan moving to the E3D lite head that it's cheap and also prints to 260C since it uses a ptfe linner inside the metal area, so at least 'on paper' it should print pla just as good.

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