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frederiekpascal

why o why again...

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Posted (edited) · why o why again...

Try changing minimum retraction from 0.5 to 1mm. Remember that the settings I use are for 1.75 so it moves more filament to print 0.5mm than the filament moved (physically) on 2.85mm.

Also try to slow down the retraction speed to a 25mm/s (if other stuff fails).

Holy mother. Anyone else having problems writing long answers? Third time it crashed while writing this (god bless copy paste).

Edited by Guest

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Posted · why o why again...

yes. I did some research. The slowness has to do with keystrokes so if you paste in the text it's fine. Chrome is allocating about 1mb memory per keystroke - when you get to 1gb (a typical post) chrome will crash.

I will be pasting my messages from now on until the forum is fixed.

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Posted · why o why again...

I did some experiments with the pulling force of the extruder at different currents. For some reason the extruder initially got stronger as I increased the current but soon after it got weaker. I believe 1250ma is the default. 1300 is stronger. 1350 is getting weaker again. Don't know why. Also the higher stress on the pcb driver means the extruder driver may shut of power briefly and it can spin backwards from pressure. Also the motor itself can get hotter and melt/soften the PLA such that it grinds up the filament.

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Posted · why o why again...

I always forget about that code on s3d since I use umo+. Indeed that could make stuff hotter.

Also indeed 250% for a 0.25 layer it's way too much. Check the pms we got, it's  always a good idea to stay around 0.3 with the % first layer. I use mostly 0.2 for my prints and I do 130-140% for height and width on first layers s3d. It's true that the brim (umm not brims.. that other stuff that helps to make prints.. can't remember the name now...) that s3d prints makes a first layer of 0.8mm but he slows down the speed automatically to math the mm3 (something they should add to many other options) but for your print speed/heat even if it works the first layer will loose quality.

Omg the more I write the slower this goes...

 

I have like 10 gcodes for my nutcap. I have other gcodes with layerheight 0.2 and firstLayerHeightPercentage 200% too. And they gave me the same result.

But that still doesn't explain why he sometimes prints the first 30 layers and then quits does it?

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Posted · why o why again...

yes.  I did some research.  The slowness has to do with keystrokes so if you paste in the text it's fine.  Chrome is allocating about 1mb memory per keystroke - when you get to 1gb (a typical post) chrome will crash.

I will be pasting my messages from now on until the forum is fixed.

 

Ow ok, I thought there was something wrong with my Macbook :D I closed every app and I still got delays while typing indeed.

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Posted · why o why again...

But highly suspicious for your problems is the first line of your start gcode:

 

M907 E1400 ; increase extruder current

 

Why do you do this....?

The extruder motor will get much hotter than normal with the increased current.

A good source for grinded filament - i think?

 

I didn't do anything, that's default code from S3D I guess... :(

Should I change it to something else?

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Posted · why o why again...

This is btw the default start.gcode :

 

M907 E1400 ; increase extruder currentG28 ; home all axesG1 X20 Y10 F3000 ; bring extruder to frontG92 E0 ; zero the extruded lengthG1 Z10 ; lowerG1 E19 F200 ; purge nozzle quicklyG1 E26 F60 ; purge nozzle slowlyG92 E0 ; zero the extruded length againG1 E-5.5 F400 ; retractG1 X190 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filamentG1 X210 F9000 ; wipeG1 Y20 F9000 ; wipeG1 E0 ; feed filament back

 

And this is the default end.gcode

 

G28 X0 ; home the X-axisM104 S0 ; turn off heatersM140 S0 ; turn off bedM84 ; disable motors

 

I never made changes to this code because I have no knowledge about gcode...

Should I make changes to this gcodes to avoid my problems? If yes, then S3D should make changes to their default gcodes imo, because I'm not the only one who uses their default codes....

Thanks in advance :)

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Posted · why o why again...

I did some experiments with the pulling force of the extruder at different currents.  For some reason the extruder initially got stronger as I increased the current but soon after it got weaker.  I believe 1250ma is the default.  1300 is stronger.  1350 is getting weaker again.  Don't know why.  Also the higher stress on the pcb driver means the extruder driver may shut of power briefly and it can spin backwards from pressure.  Also the motor itself can get hotter and melt/soften the PLA such that it grinds up the filament.

 

Okay, I changed the first line of the default start.gcode to :

 

M907 E1300 ; increase extruder current

 

instead of the default 1400... I have no clue why S3D is adding this to their default start code...

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Posted · why o why again...

Is there a point you can ship the printer to Ultimaker to examine/service?

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Posted · why o why again...

Well you are 5,336.36 km closer than I am!

 

ow misread your message sorry, my reseller is 100km from here...

Ultimaker headquarters is a few hunderd km from where I live ;)

And I didn't even knew you could knock on their door with your UM2 to fix it? :D

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Posted · why o why again...

 

Well you are 5,336.36 km closer than I am!

 

ow misread your message sorry, my reseller is 100km from here...

Ultimaker headquarters is a few hunderd km from where I live ;)

And I didn't even knew you could knock on their door with your UM2 to fix it? :D

 

You wouldn't be the first to try ;) But unfortunately our repair centre is not in our main office so that won't be helpful.

Did any of this feedback in regard of your gcode mean anything?

Did we ever see any of the teethmarks in your filament?

Since the feeder, regardless of how awesome it is, is not stock Ultimaker, can we rule this out as a troublemaker? What happened with me after a while of using it, that sometimes the filament would get pushed of the bearing.

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Posted · why o why again...

 

 

Well you are 5,336.36 km closer than I am!

 

ow misread your message sorry, my reseller is 100km from here...

Ultimaker headquarters is a few hunderd km from where I live ;)

And I didn't even knew you could knock on their door with your UM2 to fix it? :D

 

You wouldn't be the first to try ;)But unfortunately our repair centre is not in our main office so that won't be helpful.

Did any of this feedback in regard of your gcode mean anything?

Did we ever see any of the teethmarks in your filament?

Since the feeder, regardless of how awesome it is, is not stock Ultimaker, can we rule this out as a troublemaker? What happened with me after a while of using it, that sometimes the filament would get pushed of the bearing.

 

Nope, I'll post a picture from the grinded filament tomorrow.

I did read about the filament getting pushed of the bearing but that's not the case. I've double checked this several times.

No feedback about my gcode yet but I changed it to 1300 mA instead of 1400 mA based on a post from gr5 here above. :)

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Posted (edited) · why o why again...

And, no avail? (btw, the slowness should be fixed Thursday)

edit; and can you describe what your workflow is? Try to be precise.

What happens when your print fails? Since you have Roberts feeder, after opening it up, can you manually pull out the filament if it is still hot?

Can you still manually extrude by manually pushing in the filament?

Is there more to it than a seemingly random grinding behaviour?

Edited by Guest

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Posted · why o why again...

And, no avail? (btw, the slowness should be fixed Thursday)

edit; and can you describe what your workflow is? Try to be precise.

What happens when your print fails? Since you have Roberts feeder, after opening it up, can you manually pull out the filament if it is still hot?

Can you still manually extrude by manually pushing in the filament?

Is there more to it than a seemingly random grinding behaviour?

 

Hey Sander,

I don't know exactly what you mean with workflow?

But about your other questions, when a print fails the nozzle stops extruding and most of the time there is a blob a the end of my filament (where the teflon part is). And the printer starts printing in the air and the filament gets grinded more and more and breaks at the end.

I tried 235°C but that doesn't seem to help.

When the nozzle is hot I can pull the filament out (from the feeder). But it requires a lot of force but that's because of the blob at the end of the filament. I damaged my tube with pulling too hard but I replaced it already. :)

When my printer would always fail after or before the brim, then it would be more easy to fix it imo. But sometimes it's printing 30 layers or a bit more even.

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Posted · why o why again...

As I told you on the pm I still think it's something to do with the hotend assembly and couplers. And what tou say about having a hard time tonpush it manually at 235C makes me think I was right.

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Posted · why o why again...

As I told you on the pm I still think it's something to do with the hotend assembly and couplers. And what tou say about having a hard time tonpush it manually at 235C makes me think I was right.

 

no no this has nothing to do with temperature, I need brute force to pull the filament out because there is a blob at the end of the filament.

The blob is bigger than the diameter of the bowden tube, that's why I need so much force to pull it out.

The blob doesn't disappear with heating up the nozzle because it's located before it goes in the nozzle.

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Posted · why o why again...

I mean that the blob forms because of the hotend coupler assembly might be creating a gap or too much preassure. So the blob forms and colds, making it hard for the filament to go/exit.

At 235 you should be able to push very easily the filament. The hotter it it's the faster/easier it can be pushed.

Please make one or two atomic pulls without the bowden tube and make some photos of how the filament looks.

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Posted · why o why again...

Sounds like a gap between your bowden tube and PTFE coupler?

When your set up is stationairy, is there any play in your bowden tube if you pull it gently?

Does it move (even if it is just a mm) in your printhead?

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Posted · why o why again...

Sounds like a gap between your bowden tube and PTFE coupler?

When your set up is stationairy, is there any play in your bowden tube if you pull it gently?

Does it move (even if it is just a mm) in your printhead?

 

not sure, gr5 explained to me how to insert the tube correctly and I followed these steps very carefully....

Anyway loosen the 4 thumb screws maybe 4 turns, then just take the colored clip off, push down on the ring and pull up on the bowden (this is at the head) while looking at it from the front. Then push the bowden back in and watch it carefully - make sure it looks like it goes into the white part - it has a tiny ring that the bowden has to fit into.

Lift on the ring while pushing down on the bowden and while holding the ring up tighten the 4 thumb screws. This last part is important as it makes the bowden a little tighter and helps the ring dig in also. At this point you shouldn't need the colored clip at all. The bowden should be secure and not move up and down if you tug gently. If not start over but loosen the 4 thumb screws a little more next time.

Finally add the unnecessary colored clip.

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Posted · why o why again...

Sounds like a good guide.. but.. what did it result into?

Is there any room for play?

If you ever cut the bottom of your bowden tube because you thought it was damaged or another reason that could also be the source of your problem.

For example, a cut like this '/' instead of '|' leaves some room for filament to get into during printing, even if that one end is touching the PTFE coupler. (.. does this make sense to you?)

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Posted · why o why again...

Sounds like a good guide.. but.. what did it result into?

Is there any room for play?

If you ever cut the bottom of your bowden tube because you thought it was damaged or another reason that could also be the source of your problem.

For example, a cut like this '/' instead of '|' leaves some room for filament to get into during printing, even if that one end is touching the PTFE coupler. (.. does this make sense to you?)

 

Yep it does make sense, thank you :)

But it's a brand new bowden tube, I once cut the tube-end like this "/" so I won't do that again.

When my tube is in the feeder & hot-end, I cannot move it at all.

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Posted · why o why again...

The next time you get a "blob" please photograph it.

If you can't create a blob please do a cold pull as neotko suggests and photograph that also.

I never really got this part about the blob until now and this is now my strongest focus of most likely issue. You might need a new teflon coupler - do you have one? the ones from 3dsolex are great as they can handle 255C. Although some of them have a new funnel shape where the bowden goes into the part and if you have one of those it seems unlikely but that might be the problem also.

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Posted · why o why again...

ok @gr5, i'll replace my teflon Thursday, I got a few spares :) It's already one from 3Dsolex fyi.

And, it's still as white as snow on the bottom but I'll replace it anyway.

I got the day off tomorrow (UM2 is @ my office) so I'll post feedback on Thursday. (together with a picture of the atomic pulls & the blob at the end of the filament.

Thanks again, greatly appreciated!

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