You have mentioned before that you have an I2k washer. Have you checked to make sure this is sitting properly at the bottom of the steel nut? There must be no gaps between this, the nozzle block and coupler.
yep I know, checked this several times. The l2k is in position. 
Ok here we go with the promised photos.
This is how I found my feeder when I arrived at my office...
I did a few atomic pulls and these were the results.
As promised, I replaced my teflon. This is how the teflon looked like. (@LePaul you see that it was in a not so bad condition right? )
And this is how my hot end and washer looked like.
This is btw how my failed print looked like this morning :
My teeth for @SandervG 
Not a very big blob but a little one today (for @gr5)
and the grinded filament
Teflon was replaced, adjusted my S3D settings again and the printer is printing right now again. Fingers crossed now and thanks a lot for taking care of my issues folks.
Feeder looks pretty bad, like a massacre took place ..
Could you remove the guiding tube so we can have a better look at the 'feeding' part?
You Atomic Method-tips look OK, so does your PTFE.
I don't think you needed to replace it.
The teeth in your filament look good to, what do the teeth look like around the grinded area?
Since it is black it is difficult to see the texture/structure.
Does it look like your 3D print failed with a 'clean cut'?
Usually that implies a problem at the feeder instead of the hot end.
Update: I thought my precious was back up & running again but as soon as it starts retracting it goes terrible wrong :(
I have no clue how to fix this 
Everything is almost replaced so...
What about if you update the latest firmware and slice with Cura? (I read somewhere you use simplify3D?)
What about if you update the latest firmware and slice with Cura? (I read somewhere you use simplify3D?)
I have the most recent version of the firmware and I'm using S3D indeed. (where's that forum for us btw? :p)
I have the most recent version of the firmware and I'm using S3D indeed. (where's that forum for us btw?
:p)
The start looks quite good to me...
S3D doesn't use the firmware retractions, but generates it's own gcode sequences.
Your best options:
Edit: probably it's better to try this in reversed order...?
Edited by Guest
I have the most recent version of the firmware and I'm using S3D indeed. (where's that forum for us btw?
The start looks quite good to me...
S3D doesn't use the firmware retractions, but generates it's own gcode sequences.
Your best options:
- show us the retraction settings
- "play" with "Extra Restart Distance", "Coast" and "Wipe"
- slice it with Cura (just to eliminate a slicing problem)
Edit: probably it's better to try this in reversed order...?
Here they are gnome 
and
cheers
Did you try 1,00 or 1,50mm minimum retract distance as I wrote on previous answers?
Also. Are you using IRobertI feeder or standard. Also. Try to relax the spring of the feeder. Maybe it's just way too tight.
Did you try 1,00 or 1,50mm minimum retract distance as I wrote on previous answers?
Also. Are you using IRobertI feeder or standard. Also. Try to relax the spring of the feeder. Maybe it's just way too tight.
Yes same result, today my printer doesn't want to go further than the brim....
This was on 0.2 layerheight, 30mm/s and 210°C and retraction 1,00mm. But he didn't have the time to retract, it already failed before that
Upss you alreadyd did show the atomics...
Edited by GuestAbout your ptfe. Maybe it's the photo angle but it doesn't look 'round' the hole.
And the feeder relax the tension as much as posible. Or try to use a longer m3 screw?
Other observation. The Yoke of the roberfeeder looks weird. Have you check if you can push it back (it requires force). I mean, maybe the yoke it's getting stuck and the force it's crushing the filament too much.
Your feeder looks OK, so does the PTFE coupler and the results of the atomic pulls. I had an issue with the I2K washer, and I have since removed it and will wait until swordriff comes up with a coupler made out of military-grade Unobtanium.
Another reason for removing the I2K washer is to reduce the variables involved so we can narrow down the problem as far as possible.
Trying another brand of PLA right now. ICE filaments it is now on the spool and so far so good. Printing for 4 hours with the same S3D settings as always. (a bit adjusted with the feedback from my beloved community people <3)
Anyway, I will not buy any Ultimaker PLA for now anymore. Because I had troubles with several colours, not only with silver like many people.
Currently printing : VR cover for a project with ICE PLA.
Fingers crossed I'll succeed but so far so good, it looks great so far!
2
What program is that where you are monitoring it?
What program is that where you are monitoring it?
I don't like your cold pulls/atomic pulls. Can you please do it a few degrees cooler? You want a single piece coming out of the head. Ideally do it with Nylon - if you have any. Nylon is more flexible so you can get a good perfect head shaped pull-out at lower temperatures. Then you can inspect the inside of your nozzle.
I think you are probably getting nozzle clogs. But I don't know for sure. I don't know why you are getting so many.
Since the feeder, regardless of how awesome it is, is not stock Ultimaker, can we rule this out as a troublemaker?
Yes, please try this. I always get nervous when people are having trouble with their printer and they're also using my feeder... I would feel really, really bad if it turns out that the feeder is the source of the problem.
Since the feeder, regardless of how awesome it is, is not stock Ultimaker, can we rule this out as a troublemaker?
Yes, please try this. I always get nervous when people are having trouble with their printer and they're also using my feeder... I would feel really, really bad if it turns out that the feeder is the source of the problem.
no no no no
I had the same issues (even worse) with the standard filament feeder. Your feeder is much better because it gives me more control of my machine. Anyway I think many of my problems were cause by bad filament of Ultimaker.
Also, I would like to see Ultimaker releasing :
- a new and better metal fan shroud, take @labern as an example but only in metal
- Robert's feeder
- Olsson block (already done, good job UM )
My precious is printing for +20 hours right now and all seem to be ok. I'm using another brand of PLA now.
Glad this is working for you now. I think we can learn an important lesson from this all: stock more than one brand of filament.
Perhaps a corollary of this would be: do not assume that the second roll you purchase from brand x a couple of months after the first will be identical.
@frederiekpascal I was thinking about some post where you said you print by usb. You upload the gcode and then print from the sd remotely or you remotely order a computer to print via usb to the printer? Just asking because direct usb printing it's know to fail sometimes and can make the print just 'stop' from an electrical failure on the usb data transfer.
Just wondering
@frederiekpascal I was thinking about some post where you said you print by usb. You upload the gcode and then print from the sd remotely or you remotely order a computer to print via usb to the printer? Just asking because direct usb printing it's know to fail sometimes and can make the print just 'stop' from an electrical failure on the usb data transfer.
Just wondering
Yes, the Raspberry Pi is directly connected to my UM2 and I upload the gcode with Octoprint. I think my files are located on the micro-SD from my Rasp. This also goes a lot faster than uploading it to the SD from my UM2.
The Raspberry is only used for Octoprint for my UM2 and nothing else.
Should I upload it remotely to the SD from my UM2 the next time?
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You have mentioned before that you have an I2k washer. Have you checked to make sure this is sitting properly at the bottom of the steel nut? There must be no gaps between this, the nozzle block and coupler.
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