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UM2 starts shipping with Olsson block included!

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....... ordered a heater from solex, and a temp sensor, but after what you said i may regret it. is their heater ok?

 

sad you have had so much trouble, my Olsson block upgrade (more than six months ago now) worked like a treat, and the different nozzle sizes work well. The more powerful heater is really great - it just works and is much faster to heat up

good luck

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Im more angry about the um2 shipping with the OB but not the Damn 35w heater or any mention of the fact you need it in ANY instructions. Im an artist not a mechanic, and dont really follow the 'modding' or 'upgrade threads' i prefer threads about post work, painting, sanding etc. so how on earth am i meant to know i need a 35w heater? For a start i have no idea what heater my um2 came with as because it was new AND shipped with many upgrades compared to my first um2 i assumed the thing was already compatible with the OB. I cant even tell on the ultimaker website the difference between the two heaters, just ones £2 more than the other, no labeling nothing. No mention of the 35w heater during any video instructions or warning even during written ones, they just assume you know, just unplug and plug in the new one. Yeah right! If you do that then like me you WILL be disappointed, and if you damaged your stuff you WILL be even more disappointed. So right now thats whats really annoying me the lack of mention of requirements. now i usually skim read and just try and remember steps in videos but im pretty sure i looked at a good amount of them and none mentioned you needed the 35w heater.

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Lack of documentation and documentation all spread around its one of the biggest issues I find on ultimaker. Please hire a librarian and update wiki :)

 

I completely agree. The biggest frustration with the printers is the assumption of knowledge. Add to that a forum that is a nightmare to search and....well....let's all pause and let our anxiety drop a bit.

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Thank you all for the feedback.

I remember in the early days, we could only dream of the level of documentation we supply now a days. Of course we would have loved if it was at a perfect level now, but that is an unrealistic desire. Even old companies are still struggling getting it right.

There is the level of knowledge and the way it is being communicated and visualized.

So please continue to share your feedback with us and we can continue to improve and optimize the documentation. It will be an everlasting journey I think.

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I was actually surprised with the OB that I received. Came in a cool like box with some instructions which I wasn't expecting.

Yes at the time UM were preparing for the release of the UM2+ which comes out with a 35w heater. So it would have been ideal if one was added into the kit.

But if I do look back at the info that was available when I first got my UM2 you can really see how much effort UM has put in and improved so far.

There is always room for improvement but this is one reason why there is an Ideas section on the forum. :)

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Then please state that you need a 35W heater with the OB, somewhere, anywhere, its not even stated as a need on the solex website either! I feel cheated and annoyed, why would you ship something and advertise it as ready to use even supplying the tools to install it, yet missing out the key component that drives it?

However I fully understand that i'm now in the old machine camp now and you probably don't care because I don't have a UM2+. (even though now i don't really have anything) Shame.

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Well you must not have damaged any parts when doing the switch then. I had the printer going with the old fan shroud back, but the quality sucked big time, overhangs sucked even more and other than printing towers, its was in my personal opinion useless. Im simply assuming my heater was broken by me taking it out. Ive probably damaged some other stuff now or done smething wrong with packing the wires back, or some other random thing. Its all lrobertsl fault he said i would be fine making the switch, Lol. Im like a drug addict on cold turkey at the moment and am in a foul mood because of it. I have a spare 0.4mm nozzle block from the heat kit seeing that ive ruined my original one, so once the new 35W heater arrives, assuming it works correclty(not that ill know if it doesnt, lol), im going back to the stock um2, for good.  none of this OB nonsense, i dont print in abrasive materials so for people like me its a complete and utter waste of time. I completely and utterly without reserve regret even thinking about installing the bloody thing. im taking a vacation from this 3d stuff now, this traumatic experience just pushed me over the edge. I just dont have time for this nonsense i have enough to learn as it is without new mechanical issues and thermal issues from the shroud to replacing components in the printer. Have fun people and maybe ill return again later in the year. Sorry for my rants its just how I feel. All good things come to and end and mine just ended, I seriously doubt that i will be able to return the printer to its previous state which is even more depressing.

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Hi @Cloakfiend, I'm sorry to hear about your problems with the OB.

It will work with a 25W heater as well, as previously stated but if you want to print fast, much faster, the heater block needs to be stronger to keep up the heating and that is when the 35W heater comes in handy.

But given your prints, I don't think you would ever will.

Did you also make other prints with your custom plated fan shroud, or were these the first prints you made, after the installation?

I understand your feeling frustrated and probably regret your decision about installing the OB.

I can still picture your posts about loving the Ultimaker because within the year of usage you barely had to do any maintenance.

Well, if you feel worried about bringing your Ultimaker back in shape, I know some very skilled people in GB who will certainly do a great job in reviving your Ultimaker!

So I wouldn't worry about it to much.

I'll give Robert the evil eye next time I see him ;)

Take care!

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But but but... :(

I've installed over 50 Olsson blocks and I've broken four sensors IIRC, two of those was because I was being stupid and rushing things. So a couple of broken sensors out of 50+. I'd say you were just very unlucky. The guide I wrote for the install has all the steps I've taken when I've done an install.

And as has already been pointed out. You don't NEED a 35W heater, but it's helpful when you're trying to push speeds.

I know that doesn't make you any less pissed off, I just wanted to it out there. Trust me, I know exactly how you feel. I spent days and weeks pulling my UMO apart back in the day (I'm sure others have "fond" memories of bowden pops...). It ended up being such an annoyance that I stopped using it for months.

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You really do not need a 35W heater, the standard 25W heater does just fine, i ran my printer with one of the first Olsson blocks six months until getting one of the early 3DSolex 35W heaters last summer, and i was able to push over 10mm3/s reliably during that whole time with the 25W heater.

It is just a "upgrade item" wich makes it even better.

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...But when I changed the heater to a 35W version (you need this cause the olsson block is bigger) and replaced the temp sensor (with an original UM version though, the 3Dsolex version I got was more than 20C° wrong)......

 

Sorry for being dramatic, like many other people here I was merely assuming some of the information given on this forum was correct, I've clearly broken more than one item now, including both the sensor and heater and god knows what else, im gonna wait for a few spare parts and try to repair it, if not then I may need some kind of help, but Ill give it my best. I need a little break as all this has done my head in, and I just dont understand the issue with my shroud wether the thermal properties of the copper are cooling the heatblock too much or what, it never fit as expected to begin with and the exposed back may also be affecting it. Eitherway i need a bit of a time out.

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You really do not need a 35W heater, the standard 25W heater does just fine, i ran my printer with one of the first Olsson blocks six months until getting one of the early 3DSolex 35W heaters last summer, and i was able to push over 10mm3/s reliably during that whole time with the 25W heater.

It is just a "upgrade item" wich makes it even better.

 

Me too, I only started to get problems when trying to use a 0.8 nozzle and very high flow rates, so then I ordered the heater upgrade

Edited by Guest

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...But when I changed the heater to a 35W version (you need this cause the olsson block is bigger) and replaced the temp sensor (with an original UM version though, the 3Dsolex version I got was more than 20C° wrong)......

 

Sorry for being dramatic, like many other people here I was merely assuming some of the information given on this forum was correct, I've clearly broken more than one item now, including both the sensor and heater and god knows what else, im gonna wait for a few spare parts and try to repair it, if not then I may need some kind of help, but Ill give it my best. I need a little break as all this has done my head in, and I just dont understand the issue with my shroud wether the thermal properties of the copper are cooling the heatblock too much or what, it never fit as expected to begin with and the exposed back may also be affecting it. Eitherway i need a bit of a time out.

 

Hi, totally understand the frustration..

honestly, i think the issue is with the fact that your fan shroud is touching the block..

I also totally understand how this can be very frustrating if you';ve never done this before.. your location is listed as london.. is that in the london area or london itself?

i'm in london quite a bit and i'd happily help you out :)

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So whilst not critical, it is advisable to upgrade to the 35W heater if running the OB - yes?

Had my OB in for a few months now and its been working great with my standard 25W version, but the quicker/stronger heat-up does sound a good upgrade, especially if using larger nozzles?

Just checking if its an easy upgrade and where the video tutorial is - there must be one i'm sure :)

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So whilst not critical, it is advisable to upgrade to the 35W heater if running the OB - yes?

Had my OB in for a few months now and its been working great with my standard 25W version, but the quicker/stronger heat-up does sound a good upgrade, especially if using larger nozzles?

Just checking if its an easy upgrade and where the video tutorial is - there must be one i'm sure :)

 

Hey, here's a good tutorial on how to install a new heater : http://www.ideato3d.be/tutoriels/how-to-install-the-olsson-block-on-an-ultimaker-2/  I'd say it requires a skill level of 5 (on a scale of 10) :-)

Actually this a tutorial for the temp sensor, but it's almost the same as installing a heater :)

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Thanks, looks a bit involved.

But i did manage to get the temp sensor and heater wires out from my old block, so i reckon if i can do that without destroying the printer, i can do this!

Just out of interest, if i'm using the larger (0.8mm) OB nozzle with high flow, what are the signs that the 25W heater isn't upto the task?

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If its not up to the task it will always sit under the set point and may alarm if it cant recover. this normally happens with the fans also blowing on the nozzle.

A more powerful heater will allow for faster print times but you are still limited by the temp that the material will start burning at. Its recommended in not going above 240 for pla.

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I still don't get why everyone says a more powerful heater (i.e the 35W) allows you to print faster?! I mean having more power just allows you to potentially reach a higher max temperature of the system and a shorter heat up time..

There are many factors that affect flow rate: temperature is one but power is not..

Can someone confirm?

Otherwise why don't we just put a 1000W cartridge and print at say: 500mm3/s??

That would be cool!

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I still don't get why everyone says a more powerful heater (i.e the 35W) allows you to print faster?! I mean having more power just allows you to potentially reach a higher max temperature of the system and a shorter heat up time..

There are many factors that affect flow rate: temperature is one but power is not..

Can someone confirm?

Otherwise why don't we just put a 1000W cartridge and print at say: 500mm3/s??

That would be cool!

 

Feeding cold plastic into the head cools it. the faster you feed it in the more it cools. If the heater isn't strong enough to keep up with heating demand of the cool plastic coming in and the fans blowing on the nozzle then the temp will drop. But as i said there is a limit of temp that you apply or you start burning the plastic that touches the inner walls of the heater block.

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@sambianchibazzi, The 25W cartridge from the original UM2 is underpowered for the volumes possible with the larger nozzles, it takes a certain amount of power to heat up and melt the filament, and when you feed enough mm3 trough the nozzle you will reach the thermal limit and the nozzle will start dropping in temperature even if the heater is on 100% of the time. The 35W heater can keep up with the volumes possible with the larger nozzles and therefore allow faster print speeds.

You are totally right in that the heater power is only one variable of a very complex system, but it is a variable that makes a difference if you change it in this particular case, changing it to 45W might very well do no difference at all from 35W.

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