Clear polycarbonate also makes an excellent material for a fan shroud. You can print it (slowly) at 260C on a UM2. Mine hasn't deformed or turned brown after dozens of hours printing ABS, unlike the XT and other materials I've tried.
Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try.
Edited by GuestPurchased UM2 in november from local distributor, no olssen block. Now available as upgrade kit approx $300. not happy. I purchased it believing I would get the upgrade. Any suggestions?
I just attempted to install the ob..... lol, no chance!! and i really tried for hours gently trying to prize it out, heated it up, lubed it, everything, but no. ive given up because the metal casing is breaking which means i will need to purchase stuff simply because i want to upgrade. none of the sensors come out period even half a millimeter and seem glued in. i may just be unlucky but i cant even see any casing of the heat sensor at all so that will get stripped if pull it. maybe i just dont have the technique but i seriously would not recommend doin this yourself unless you have spare parts!!! and im VERY careful with stuff the sensors casing just buckles under any sort of strain.
ok i broke it now, figured i had a spare one in the box so whatever.
Edited by GuestPurchased UM2 in november from local distributor, no olssen block. Now available as upgrade kit approx $300. not happy. I purchased it believing I would get the upgrade. Any suggestions?
Contact the distributor and see if you can work something out.
ive totaly wrecked my um2 intalling this thing all of the wires in the casing are too far in and now i cant even get the replacement heat sensor in. looks like like im going to have to take the sides off now! te damn hole where all the wires feed is just too small and the housing is getting wrecked the more i try to feed it thrugh! very unhappy at the moment......no more printing from me for a long while....
Don't take the sides off, ever.
Take off the cover plate on the inside of the printer instead and if you're having a hard time feeding the wire mesh through the hole just wrap a short piece of tape around it to keep it from expanding/unravelling. Snip off the damaged/frayed part of the mesh once you get it through and consider using a lighter to melt the edges ever so slightly, that should help keep it together (I've never done that myself though). Just remember to give yourself enough room to work with (diameter wise).
It could also be that there's some heat shrink tubing keeping the end together too tightly. If so, just snip if off.
Hi @Cloakfiend, did you follow the instructions and remove the screw that is holding the wires down?
Alternatively, if you post some images perhaps we can help with an easier solution that taking the sides off.
which screw? the mesh has separated from the visible rubber and now its so deep in the hole i cant even get at it to pull it, and if i do manage then everytime i pull on the mesh, it tears....how can i get to that hole without removing the sides? i also have a feeling i broke both sensors taking/trying to take them out. but the bigger one appeared to work (even though iits visibly cracked and i can see inside it) so ill try to see if it works, and the temp one gave me the error simply by squeezing it with some tweezers before i shredded it..
Like I said, remove the white cover on the inside of the machine. The one that hides the feeder motor. That will get you more than enough space to work with.
I meant the screw which is being removed at 1:23 (and it is also the action shown in the thumbnail)
yes i undid the tension screw thing on the block. now i think ive done it, but temps seem to bounce a bit unlike before, only about 1 or 2 degrees though so hopefully should not matter too much, but i split the heat thing when i took it out and im concerned it might die now, we'll see....im testing a print i did now yesterday to see if its worse quality.....fingers crossed.
.. with the Olsson block installed?
It just died mid print. RIP um2. dont know whats wrong now, im assuming the heater at it was slightly split when i took it out. the temp sensor was brand new but who knows im too depressed to care right now after spending hours on it and will just leave it in the corner i think. its the fatter one in the pic that split near the end the one that was meant to come out easy. after 1 min it says something like temp error contact ultimaker or something.
What kind of fan shroud do you have?
If your heaterblock takes to long to heat it can give a temp error, if your fans turn on and for some reason they are cooling your heaterblock or the fanshroud is conducting coolness to your heaterblock it could trigger a temp error.
.. or one of the wires is busted, and that is your problem.
You could try to make a print without fans, to see if that makes a difference.
what do i need to get to replace the thicker sensor/heater? there seem to be a variety in the store.
its laberns shroud btw, just in copper. you can see it in the prints section.
when i left it on move material, it reset after a few minutes and went back to the menu?
Edited by GuestThe thicker one is the heater, the smaller one is the PT100.
The heater you can get at any Ultimaker dealer, or from 3dsolex.com (a list of local suppliers on this site). Take the 35 watt heater.
edit; just checked, there is a local UK dealer http://www.goodtube.uk/
Edited by Guest
The thicker one is the heater, the smaller one is the PT100.
The heater you can get at any Ultimaker dealer, or from 3dsolex.com (a list of local suppliers on this site). Take the 35 watt heater.
do i need a different power supply? i feel im going to now have to unnecessarily spend money on something that appeared very easy in videos, and really should have been easy.
No, assuming you only have one head on your UM2 the power supply is fine with the 35W heater.
And yes you do spend unnecessary money.... but the good thing is that removing the heater and sensor from the olsson block is usually easier than from the UM2 nozzle, so the risk of creating this damage again is now lower.
What's easy for some can be a bit more difficult for others 
and you can just get some bad luck.
1
Bad luck, lol. You can say that again. My sensor and block were so far in the sensor only had cable sticking out so naturally thats all i had to pull, and who knows why the easy to remove heater was stuck. We'll see either way. I've just bought the heater. hopefully it will arrive lol.
ive got it working, but if the fans go above 15% then the heater is not powerful enough. its to do with the shroud and positinīng or it with the ollson block. but i cant stand it, the noise the fans make at 15% is very irritating.
i should have just left it alone the copper is cooling it too much.
i hope they hurry up and release the new shroud already.....
Edited by Guest
ive replaced the fan with the original one, but it still seems to be unable to quite reach the correct temp. maybe the block is larger, who knows, but one things for sure, as soon as i get my new heater, the olsson block is going in the bin. i hate it, it does not work at all for me. its a gimmick that does not produce the same quality as the original nozzle. im out. im now seriously fed up with all this unnecessary modding. i was getting perfect prints before, i have no idea what made me do this, probably my stupid copper plated shroud that just didn't fit. nothing is working for me today.....rant over bye. im abandoning my um till i calm down... i might just sell it now. i hate fixing things that i broke. my personal advice to those wanting to install the ob is DONT.
Bad luck, lol. You can say that again. My sensor and block were so far in the sensor only had cable sticking out so naturally thats all i had to pull, and who knows why the easy to remove heater was stuck. We'll see either way. I've just bought the heater. hopefully it will arrive lol.
ive got it working, but if the fans go above 15% then the heater is not powerful enough. its to do with the shroud and positinīng or it with the ollson block. but i cant stand it, the noise the fans make at 15% is very irritating.
i should have just left it alone the copper is cooling it too much.
i hope they hurry up and release the new shroud already.....
I had exactly the same problems as you with my UM2. Both my heater and temp sensor were burned in the heater block and there was no way to remove them and keep them working afterward.
But when I changed the heater to a 35W version (you need this cause the olsson block is bigger) and replaced the temp sensor (with an original UM version though, the 3Dsolex version I got was more than 20C° wrong) most of my problems were gone.
I admit, changing the sensor and heater is really a pain in the *ss. I hated it as much as you hate it lol. 
thanks for the words of support. i had a spare sensor from the hot end pack so ill use that and ordered a heater from solex, and a temp sensor, but after what you said i may regret it. is their heater ok?
i still think im going to abandon the ob, but may give it one last chance i also dont like the larger nozzles even the 0.4 is bigger and therefore eminates more heat, its why i didnt like the umo, but even you said 'most' of your problems not 'all', i tried to print something and got incomplete layers at the same point twice when it printed fine before. i just don't trust it. i dont like the gap between the nozzle and ob and the fact i dont have a shroud or handle and cant print one at the mo. im gonna leave it for a while and ponder. ill give the ob one last day of trying, but if i cant match my usual standard its going in the bin after some some stress relief work with a hammer.
If you have a bad temp sensor from 3dSolex please get in contact with your 3dSolex representative or with @swordriff himself if you bought it directly from 3dSolex. The bad temp sensor will of course be replaced.
Edited by Guest
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the purpose of the two filaments is having a wider (volume) window of available "glass point" material to increase the potential max print volume (thus Speed)
Speed is good.
The problem lies with the bigger heat zone, this creates more plastic expansion, thus more oozing and longer retract lengths. Not an issue on all prints but not ideal for a general purpose printer.
THat makes sense. I personally want that bigger heat zone but I dont use retraction... pretty much ever...
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