Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
helugo

Error - STOPPED Heater Error

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone, I recently bought an UM2 (a week ago) and it's been having constant error on heater error. It has been constantly up to now that even when removing the filament it shows the error. The firmware is 15.04, anyone have any suggestions for such cause? Should I open and look at connections? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is a very specific error that didn't exist a few firmware versions ago.

You get an error if the heater can't move a certain amount in a certain time while driving full power (when it is close to goal temp it typically runs well below full power):

Firmware

Version

14.09 - does not have the feature

14.12 oct 16, 2014 - feature introduced. 20C in 20 Seconds

14.12.1 dec 15, 2014 - from 20C to 10C (still in 20 seconds)

15.01 jan 14, 2015 - from 20 secs to 30 secs (now 10C in 30 seconds)

There's lots of possible causes - the most common is that the block is touching the metal fan shroud. This is PARTICULARLY common with olsson blocks as they are larger - do you have an olsson block by any chance?

It can happen also if the fans come on to full power suddenly - normally you want them to come on a little ata time and that's the default for cura. It can happen if your heater is only 20W instead of 25W (this is more common than you would think as they vary by quite a bit).

It can happen if you pour water on the nozzle. Or cool it in any other way.

Did you get an old printer with the 14.12 version firmware maybe? Check what version firmware you have.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh - you can also get this error at high printing temps - for example Anders disabled this test on his firmware as he prints at 290C I believe and he would get the error all the time if he didn't turn the feature off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all. I've been getting the Heater Error message on my UM2 lately as well. I had installed the Olsson block a couple of months ago, and I've had no problems whatsoever up until last week, when I got the Heater Error for the first time. I noticed that the temp sensor was loose inside the block (I pulled it from the back and it came right off), so I tightened the screw on the block and I thought my problem was solved. But the next day, after about an hour into the print, I got the dreaded Heater Error message again. This time the sensor was firmly fixed inside the block. I've been using izzy's shroud (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fan-duct-v2) and the stock 25W heater. Help!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all. I've been getting the Heater Error message on my UM2 lately as well. I had installed the Olsson block a couple of months ago, and I've had no problems whatsoever up until last week, when I got the Heater Error for the first time. I noticed that the temp sensor was loose inside the block (I pulled it from the back and it came right off), so I tightened the screw on the block and I thought my problem was solved. But the next day, after about an hour into the print, I got the dreaded Heater Error message again. This time the sensor was firmly fixed inside the block. I've been using izzy's shroud (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fan-duct-v2) and the stock 25W heater. Help!

 

Try to update the firmware, sometimes that's the easiest solution. Another thing is try to heatup the nozzle Maintenance>Advanced>Nozzle Temperature set it up to 200 C if it shows the error while doing this then the problem is that the heater cartridge might be damaged and probably replaced.

If it doesn't show the error using the Nozzle Temp test try to use also the Maintenance>Advanced> move material process multiple times by letting cool down the nozzle. If more than three it doesn't show then your heater cartridge is working fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I recommend getting the 35W heater instead of the stock 25W heater which has great variability and can be as low as 18W.

Is it possible that your olsson block is touching the fan shroud? Check that also - often the bottom of the block touches the top of the fan shroud - look at it from behind the print head - see if you can slip a sheet of paper between Olsson block and fan shroud.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ihave the same problemsince I installed the Ollson heating block.

I noticed that the sensor could not be fastend any more in the Olsson heating block.

Even if I putsomealu-foliearound the sensor, it will loosen again after a while.

With my Ultimmaker 2 extended igot a spare sensor with cable delivered.

This sensor looks mutch thickernand sticks in the heater the right way.

my question is how to replkace the sensor and cable in the machine ????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Update- updated firmware problem solved

Because your PID values were too high. Just reduce the PID values (each of the 3 values) by the increase in heater power. Older PID values were for a 25W heater, UM2+ has 35W so multiply by 25/35 and save those lower values. Or get the latest firmware.

Herman's problem is completely different I think.

I just ran my new sensor on the outside of the black cable bundle - ugly but it works.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have UM2 Extended, running Firmware 15.04.3ex and getting heater error. Looks like it happens about same time (3rd or 4th layer into print) Shuts down with error. Support sent me a new heater but nothing. I did manage to print a robot as I have been trying to figure out what is going on and did not want to start my part unless thing is working. I am running Ollson block and custom printed fan shroud but have switch back and forth between original and printed fan shroud and does not matter. (errors on both) Stuck! Any ideas? Running material colorFabb XT (grey) using below:

[material]

name=CPE

temperature=250

bed_temperature=65

fan_speed=50

flow=100

diameter=2.85

Was going to increase fan speed up, but errors prevent from seeing what going on with overhangs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What wattage heater did they send you? Make sure you get a 35W heater - that's what is in the new UM2+ printers. 250C is a little harder for the heater to keep up with. Personally I just turned off this error on my printer . This test didn't exist for the first year that the UM2 was out.

You can test the wattage of the heater by measureing the resistance with an ohm meter (with power off and heater not connected to power). Formula is Wattage=24V * 24V / resistance

So for example 24 ohms would be 24 Watts. What country are you in? I have 35-37W heaters - if you order my store include a note that you want on the high end. 3dsolex has 35W heaters and I think even 40W heaters.

Is there a way to block the fan from blowing on your olsson block? Is this with a large nozzle where you are printing lots of material fast e.g. .8mm nozzle? Or just regular .4mm nozzles. Some people block the airflow around the block using kapton tape or other wind-blocks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually think that may the problem. Think they sent the 25W version. I reduced my fan speed to 50% AND watched the temps in "tune" screen to verify what the temp was doing. As Fan speed kicked up in program, the temp fell. I reduced fan speed each time it "ramped" up and temps would return to normal (Programmed). So far so good, print quality is looking pretty good but seems I'll just have to replace with high wattage or reduce fan speed with higher temp materials. How much is higher wattage heater?

 

What wattage heater did they send you?  Make sure you get a 35W heater - that's what is in the new UM2+ printers.  250C is a little harder for the heater to keep up with.  Personally I just turned off this error on my printer .  This test didn't exist for the first year that the UM2 was out.

You can test the wattage of the heater by measureing the resistance with an ohm meter (with power off and heater not connected to power).  Formula is Wattage=24V * 24V / resistance

So for example 24 ohms would be 24 Watts.  What country are you in?  I have 35-37W heaters - if you order my store include a note that you want on the high end.  3dsolex has 35W heaters and I think even 40W heaters.

Is there a way to block the fan from blowing on your olsson block?  Is this with a large nozzle where you are printing lots of material fast e.g. .8mm nozzle?  Or just regular .4mm nozzles.  Some people block the airflow around the block using kapton tape or other wind-blocks.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@jlarson - I'm confused. Maybe I read your posting too fast the first time or maybe I misunderstood. When I saw "um2 extended" I think I was thinking "um2 plus". The plus comes with 35W heater. The older one comes with 25W heater. 25W heater works good enough for the most part. You should be able to work with that. But if you installed the olsson block and are now getting these heater errors then the actual problem is more likely that the block is touching the fan shroud. Loosen the 4 screws holding the fan shroud and it should move slightly up and down. If not then the block is probably touching it and you should raise the block by tightening the round steel coupler nut. You can do this by removing only the long thumbscrew - front left one and sticking something into the holes and using that tool to rotate the round nut. But only do this while it is hot - 160C is a good temp - just in case some filament got into the threads. You want the block pretty much all the way up excelpt maybe back off 1/2 to one full turn.

Or maybe you don't have the olsson block?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@jlarson - I'm confused.  Maybe I read your posting too fast the first time or maybe I misunderstood.  When I saw "um2 extended" I think I was thinking "um2 plus".  The plus comes with 35W heater.  The older one comes with 25W heater.  25W heater works good enough for the most part.  You should be able to work with that.  But if you installed the olsson block and are now getting these heater errors then the actual problem is more likely that the block is touching the fan shroud.  Loosen the 4 screws holding the fan shroud and it should move slightly up and down.  If not then the block is probably touching it and you should raise the block by tightening the round steel coupler nut.  You can do this by removing only the long thumbscrew - front left one and sticking something into the holes and using that tool to rotate the round nut.  But only do this while it is hot - 160C is a good temp - just in case some filament got into the threads.  You want the block pretty much all the way up excelpt maybe back off 1/2 to one full turn.

Or maybe you don't have the olsson block?

 

Actually running a custom cooling block. (I printed) not touching olsson block. I did reduce fan speed to 50% and it is working. Yes, older UM2 ex (not a plus). Watched part print in "tune" screen and could see temp drop with ramp up with fan speed increase. reduced fan speed with each ramp up and the heater can "keep up" to programmed temp. Looking to upgrade to the 35W heater. Thanks for the reply!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

lol. That's strange since my understanding is that the UM2+ kit includes a 35W heater. I haven't gotten my upgrade kit yet but it should arrive soon. I have no idea why they would say that - I wish they were more explicit. Was this UM support in Netherlands? Or UM support at fbrc8? I guess I can ask them all directly. I'll do that as they all subscribe to he same chat group that I'm a member of. Will get back to you. However I have the 35W heater in my Um2 and a 39W in my um2go but haven't changed the heater in my um2ext yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well the only reply I got so far is from Simon at fbrc8 (he's very smart). He mentioned that the PID values are tuned for a 25W heater and my um2go does oscillate a bit in temperature but I don't mind. The quick fix is to lower the 3 PID values by the ratio of 25/35. In theory this is the proper values for PID. In practice you can run the PID autotune feature. If you already have tinkergnome Marlin installed you can edit the PID values there easily. Alternatively there are several easy tools to play with PID settings for your print head. But again, the default values for the 35W heater are good enough for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

lol.  That's strange since my understanding is that the UM2+ kit includes a 35W heater.  I haven't gotten my upgrade kit yet but it should arrive soon.  I have no idea why they would say that - I wish they were more explicit.  Was this UM support in Netherlands?  Or UM support at fbrc8?  I guess I can ask them all directly.  I'll do that as they all subscribe to he same chat group that I'm a member of.  Will get back to you.  However I have the 35W heater in my Um2 and a 39W in my um2go but haven't changed the heater in my um2ext yet.

fbrc8... Joseph and Erin have been helping me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well the only reply I got so far is from Simon at fbrc8 (he's very smart).  He mentioned that the PID values are tuned for a 25W heater and my um2go does oscillate a bit in temperature but I don't mind.  The quick fix is to lower the 3 PID values by the ratio of 25/35.  In theory this is the proper values for PID.  In practice you can run the PID autotune feature.  If you already have tinkergnome Marlin installed you can edit the PID values there easily.  Alternatively there are several easy tools to play with PID settings for your print head.  But again, the default values for the 35W heater are good enough for me.

Thanks, I will be upgrading my 2EX to the 2+ kit shortly and purchasing another 2+ printer. Is the tinkergnome a free download? Haven't gotten into this yet. Be nice to see code.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

tinker marlin not yet compatible with um2+. Just um2. Although it might be as simple as adjusting steps/mm and possibly adjusting PID settings.

Tell Erin and Joseph George says hi.

So anyway the um2+ kit does indeed come with a 35W heater and everyone I spoke to said there's nothing wrong with putting a 35W heater in a UM2. I have sold many dozens of these with no complaints and 3dsolex I assume has sold hundreds. Even Erin's husband says it's fine and at the worst you have to modify PID values. I think "it's not compatible" was just a simplification.

tinker gnome latest versions:

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

By the way the tinker firmware is awesome! I love it. It's so easy to use. It has amazing features with better leveling control and ability to resume a failed print. You can adjust PID values right from the menu and much much more.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

By the way the tinker firmware is awesome!  I love it.  It's so easy to use.  It has amazing features with better leveling control and ability to resume a failed print.  You can adjust PID values right from the menu and much much more.

THANKS! Asked about resuming a failed print and was told not possible. Downloaded .hex file for my um2ex... stupid question, how does it run? Is it a plug in?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • How to 3D print with reinforced engineering materials
      Ultimaker is hosting a webinar where we explain how you can achieve and maintain a high print success rate using these new reinforced engineering materials. Learn from Ultimaker's Product Manager of Materials and top chemical engineer Bart van As how you can take your 3D printing to that next level.
      • 0 replies
    • "Back To The Future" using Generative Design & Investment Casting
      Designing for light-weight parts is becoming more important, and I’m a firm believer in the need to produce lighter weight, less over-engineered parts for the future. This is for sustainability reasons because we need to be using less raw materials and, in things like transportation, it impacts the energy usage of the product during it’s service life.
        • Like
      • 12 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!