Error - STOPPED Heater Error

[Jlarson 0]

 

By the way the tinker firmware is awesome!  I love it.  It's so easy to use.  It has amazing features with better leveling control and ability to resume a failed print.  You can adjust PID values right from the menu and much much more.

 

THANKS! Asked about resuming a failed print and was told not possible. Downloaded .hex file for my um2ex... stupid question, how does it run? Is it a plug in?

 

got it.... nevermind

[cdriza 0]

My recommendation is to drill out the fan shroud hole near the hot end. The shroud acts like a heatsink and causes firmware confusion. Drill a hole and you should see much better results.

[Myrightfoot 1]

Hi. How can you see/test to see if the heater cartridge cable is working right and that nothing else is the problem?

[gr5 2,167]

heater error (as opposed to error stopped - temp sensor)

You get an error if the heater can't move a certain amount in a certain time while driving full power (when it is close to goal temp it typically runs well below full power):

Firmware

Version

14.09 - does not have the feature

14.12 oct 16, 2014 - feature introduced. 20C in 20 Seconds

14.12.1 dec 15, 2014 - from 20C to 10C (still in 20 seconds)

15.01 jan 14, 2015 - from 20 secs to 30 secs (now 10C in 30 seconds)

The cause is either a wimpy heater (new UM2's, the plus and the plus kit, come with 35W - older ones came with 25W but there was a large variance and some were only 20W) or maybe you have an olsson block which is touching the fan shroud (usually on the bottom of the block touching the inside of the shroud).

Some people only get the error when printing extra hot, extra fast. Or you might get the error when the fans come on. I disabled this feature (it's easy to do in Configuration.h if you know already how to build marlin) on my printer.

[Torgeir 242]

Hi Folks,

This tread is has good information about problems related with the heat element and temperature sensor.

I’ve read about some problem here in this forum, about erratic reading and stuck heater elements in the heat block, due to burned “elements” between dissimilar metals.

When I assembled the heat block, I searched to find a suitable heat sink compound to use when installing the thermistor and the heater. After lots of search I found that the Copper paste was the best one to be used in this application.

The right brand of copper paste can:

1) Stand a temperatures from (-35 to +1100) Deg. Celsius!

2) Have its best heat conductivity from about (+180 to +300) Deg. Celsius. This is most interesting for us.

3) Easy to remove if you need to.

4) Prevent corrosion.

Benefits: Better heat transfer from the heater to the heat block, better heat transfer from the heat block to the thermistor.

I’ve learned that, the Ultimaker printer’s is delivered with some Copper paste, but I do not know what brand it is or its properties.

Btw, have any other of you tried this?

Here is a link to a brand of Copper paste:

 

http://www.weicon.com/pages/en/products/anti-seize/copper-paste.php

http://www.weicon.com/pages/en/download/technical-datasheet/TDS_26200045_EN_EN_Copper-Paste.pdf

PS. Please also read the safety notes on this stuff.

I’ve made some notes how I did this, if any interest.

Thanks

Torgeir