Heat Bed causing UM2 to turn off

[JoshMaurici 1]

Hey All,

So when the build plate for my Ultimaker 2 starts to heat up i think there's a short somewhere, causing  the printer  to restart its self. Feels like its earthing out somewhere.

I've checked all the wires connected to the bed and all the solders are fine.

Only other information i can give is I've tested the bed when disconnected from the printer and got a reading of 30 ohms. Not sure if that's what its supposed to be giving off or not.

Any thoughts on this? should i just order a new heat bed? Is there anything else i could do to troubleshoot the problem?

Thanks In advance,

Josh

UPDATE: There is this small burn mark on the heat bed itself. This could be causing the problem?

Edited December 14, 2015 by Guest

[SandervG 1,139]

A few quick options:

- Check if you are not using an Ultimaker 2 Go power supply unit.

- Check if on the electronics end or the bed-end none of the wires are touching.

- Feel free to upload a picture of your electronics terminal on which the heaters are connected to check for burned marks or anything strange.

- 4th option; your heated bed is broken.

[nallath 604]

Have you tried only heating the bed (and nothing else?) It could be that all the systems combined draw to much power, causing the UM2 to turn off.

[JoshMaurici 1]

So i managed to get a new heat bed but it did not fix the problem. Ive noticed that there is some slight discoloration on back of the pcb of the motherboard. Is this normal? It seems like its a tad burned.  

Also here is a video of what happens on the motherboard when i try to heat up the bed.

 

Edited December 20, 2015 by Guest

[JoshMaurici 1]

Have you tried only heating the bed (and nothing else?) It could be that all the systems combined draw to much power, causing the UM2 to turn off.

 

yes. Ive tried manually heating the bed and as soon as it begins to heat up it shorts out and turns off then back on. Ive also tried isolating the two wires that connect from the motherboard to the heat bed. this was to check if the UM2's wires are faulty but even when i used new wires it didnt fix the problem.

Edited December 20, 2015 by Guest

[JoshMaurici 1]

A few quick options:

- Check if you are not using an Ultimaker 2 Go power supply unit.

- Check if on the electronics end or the bed-end none of the wires are touching.

- Feel free to upload a picture of your electronics terminal on which the heaters are connected to check for burned marks or anything strange.

- 4th option; your heated bed is broken.

 

checked all these. Power supply is the correct one.

None of the wires are touching.

Heat bed is not broken as i replaced it with a brand new one and still didnt fix the problem.

I have uploaded a pic of the back of the motherboard (post above) were it looks a tad burned.

Edited December 20, 2015 by Guest

[gr5 1,108]

I have no idea why everyone is looking at the heated bed - it seems much more likely the power brick is defective.

I'm an electrical engineer so I would measure the current coming out of the brick for the 1 second that the heated bed is on but that's tricky to do. I would just ask your supplier to send you another power brick. They are a bit expensive.

30 ohms is too high - that would be only about 25 Watts for the bed, but it's more like 100 watts so it should be about 6 ohms (not 30 ohms). I think you somehow measured it wrong.

The brown stain on the board is far from the heated bed connection so I think unrelated.

[JoshMaurici 1]

I have no idea why everyone is looking at the heated bed - it seems much more likely the power brick is defective.

I'm an electrical engineer so I would measure the current coming out of the brick for the 1 second that the heated bed is on but that's tricky to do.   I would just ask your supplier to send you another power brick.  They are a bit expensive.

30 ohms is too high - that would be only about 25 Watts for the bed, but it's more like 100 watts so it should be about 6 ohms (not 30 ohms).  I think you somehow measured it wrong.

The brown stain on the board is far from the heated bed connection so I think unrelated.

 

so turns out it was the power brick that was shorting out. Got a replacement one and it works fine.

Thanks for your help.