How to access feeder motor on UM2GO?

[2go 6]

Hi,

how do I remove white side panel to access feeder motor?

Thanks!

And while I have your attention, I just found out about the existence of alternative feeder by IRobertI for UM2. Haven't researched that much yet but I wonder does it fit UM2GO also?

Double thanks!

[IRobertI 520]

You have to remove it with a bit of force. It's held in place by five plastic tabs that stick into the sides and bottom of the printer. So you need to sort of pinch the panel and pull it inwards until it lets go. Getting it back can be a pain but with some patience you'll get it back in place.

You have to mirror the body (and snap on guide if you want to use that) of the feeder to make it fit. Other than that it'll work fine.

Edited December 21, 2015 by Guest

[peggyb 169]

I loosened the screws of the side panel a bit (not all the way!) to get the white cover out, and don't forget to tighten them again after installing...

Roberts feeder works great on the Um2Go as well, it is a bit cramped with the filament reel covering the latch, but you'll get the hang of it.

Print also Labern's cable retainer: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/cable-retainer-for-roberts-feeder

And also the carry handle: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2go-carry-handle

[2go 6]

Thank you both!

[2go 6]

@IRobertI

Hi Robert,

Just got back home after holidays and started printing your feeder.

Now printing mirrored body for grommet. As I have said grommet I hope this is the correct version to print.

Will not mirror any other parts as they seem to be symmetrical (will not use snap on guide).

There are no shops nearby where I can buy metric screws around so will have to order online. I do have some 35mm M3 screws however your description says I need 30mm. Is it ok if I shim it with handful of washers?

Last question, which version of hub+yoke do I need for regular PLA? As I understand 35-39mm versions are for softer materials?

thank you!

[IRobertI 520]

Personally I prefer the version that uses a piece of bowden. But the grommet version should work as well. I don't know if it's just my imagination but I feel like that version is more likely to have the filament slip off the bearing.

Shim away. And you might also be able to steal a screw from the machine instead. Check the length of the screws that hold the frame together or the screws that hold the cover plates for the electronics in place. I'm too lazy to check the length of those right now

I would go with the 38mm one to start. IIRC that's the length I started with way back. People kept asking for longer/shorter pieces over and over which is why I dumped a whole bunch of lengths in there.

[2go 6]

Great, no more questions. Thank you!

[2go 6]

Hello again,

as I have already started this topic about removing various plastic panels from my UM2GO, let's continue ...

How do I remove the center panel that covers z axis bearings? Picture below...

Some topics about UM2 refer to unscrewing 2 screws under the building platform and the plastic panel just slides up but I am not sure I see those screws anywhere in my UM2GO. Thanks in advance.

[neotko 1,417]

I have no idea and the github isn't as self explanatory as on ither machines.

I would check the pdf of that part of the bed:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Go/blob/master/1717/B1717-C.PDF

Or better, check the full 3D model step file:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Go/tree/master/3D%20model

Edited January 5, 2016 by Guest

[2go 6]

Thanks, neotko. I saw in the pdf that part is only held to two plastic latches. A brutal amount of force and now it is removed.

[2go 6]

Here was another question but solved it myself so nevermind

Edited January 6, 2016 by Guest

[peggyb 169]

wow, your going all the way!!

I didn't come this far, gave up before dismantling the electronics board...

I assume you grab the rods inside the printer and try to turn and push them down, but it looks like a really tight fit...

Started also on the top but that means all the walls come loose and stopped there.

Let us know how you are progressing, I am really interested!

[IRobertI 520]

I assume the question was about removing the Z-rods judging by @peggyb's response. And yes, you're right, you just grab the rods and push them out by force. They're actually hammered in during assembly sometimes, so yeah, it's a tight fit

[2go 6]

Yes, the question was about removing z-rods. I figured it out in a minute following my post so removed the question hoping no one saw it.

So yeah, I was having issues with Z layer dropping around 10-20mm. Other than that, printing just fine, machine purchased only few weeks ago.

I wrapped a piece of old t-shirt around z-rods and took them out with pliers. Required little less force than I expected. Took rods out through the bottom of the printer. Yep, had to remove electronics board out of the way to make way for one rod.

I really suck at fixing/disassembling stuff so the whole process took approx. 4 hours. Once the z-rods were out, I found out that vertical bearings had some kind of nasty oil/cream inside, so I cleaned both rods and bearings with WD-40. Then cleaned WD-40 residue with isopropyl alcohol and re-oiled everything with tiny amount of baby oil before assembling.

Space is extremely cramped in UM2GO. It took me almost 30 minutes to remove one screw holding the corner of the electronics board. I did not put it back again in case I'll need to repeat this procedure again.

After cleaning, one rod/bearing combination is perfect. I put it back in 'more difficult to access' place. The other pair is slightly better then it was so we'll see... Now printing 10cm high tower to see if it fixed my Z issues.

At first I tried accessing everything from the top but, like peggyb, stopped after a while not wanting the walls to become loose.

I couldn't have done it without reading 10+ threads on this forum. Last post here was especially helpful and inspired me to try and fix these issues myself:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17753-um-2-skipping-layers

While I was typing this message my test print is already 40mm high and no skipped layers so far, fingers crossed...

[peggyb 169]

So yeah, I was having issues with Z layer dropping around 10-20mm

this is a lot! don't you mean 1-2 mm?? The z-motor/leadscrew won't allow this amount, unless the problem IS the z-motor/leadscrew.

1-2 mm is the amount of the play from the z-nut. Do you also have a little play in the z-nut? (grab the end of the table and lift it up) like this:

 

[Labern 774]

all 3 of my printers have play in the z nut. 2go and extended are new but my UM2 is 1.5years old.

[2go 6]

What I meant is that Z-dropping happened when the print reached height of somewhere around 10-20mm. The actual drop was no more than a layer or two (0.1-0.2mm)

Five prints after the fix it seems that it solved any Z issues I had

[peggyb 169]

great, maybe I'll dive into that as well......

Edited January 7, 2016 by Guest

[2go 6]

Arm yourself with patience and do it

Below is before and after the fix. Blue ones are before but ran out of blue for after, it was a sample from faberdashery.

[peggyb 169]

thanks for the detailed explanation, this gave me the courage to start...

as suspected, the left bearing is the worst, still working on that last  screw...

 

Edited January 7, 2016 by Guest

[2go 6]

Bearing sticking just like mine was Assuming I'm thinking about the same screw, you could temporary remove feeder motor to allow more working space. I did not put that screw back after assembling, it's not THAT necessary

[neotko 1,417]

I tried two days ago the route of taking out the bearings on my umo+ and wd40 them, oiling again and it worked perfect... Until today that I have again z jumps. So maybe the fix it's temporal (I'm my case I think there are other factors).

[peggyb 169]

it's done!

there was a lot of blue stuff inside the bearings, but I guess they need some lubrication.

@neotko: maybe the bearing are not great quality, when cleaning I could still feel some irregularities moving the rod in my hand with the bearing. Did you try to put some weight on the bed close to the bearings?

@2Go: surprisingly the last screw of the electronics board was the easiest... this was the only one where the metal spacer came loose, and it is so much easier to assemble it from the outside then this fiddling on the inside..

Hope everything helpt...

Edited January 7, 2016 by Guest

[peggyb 169]

doing a test print now, fingers crossed

Edited January 7, 2016 by Guest

[2go 6]

Cool. How did the test print turn out?