Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
2go

How to access feeder motor on UM2GO?

Recommended Posts

Hi,

how do I remove white side panel to access feeder motor? :)

7b76db65769d093f2d35da439f79b010842.jpg

Thanks!

And while I have your attention, I just found out about the existence of alternative feeder by IRobertI for UM2. Haven't researched that much yet but I wonder does it fit UM2GO also?

Double thanks!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have to remove it with a bit of force. It's held in place by five plastic tabs that stick into the sides and bottom of the printer. So you need to sort of pinch the panel and pull it inwards until it lets go. Getting it back can be a pain but with some patience you'll get it back in place.

You have to mirror the body (and snap on guide if you want to use that) of the feeder to make it fit. Other than that it'll work fine.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I loosened the screws of the side panel a bit (not all the way!) to get the white cover out, and don't forget to tighten them again after installing...

Roberts feeder works great on the Um2Go as well, it is a bit cramped with the filament reel covering the latch, but you'll get the hang of it.

Print also Labern's cable retainer: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/cable-retainer-for-roberts-feeder

And also the carry handle: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2go-carry-handle

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@IRobertI

Hi Robert,

Just got back home after holidays and started printing your feeder.

Now printing mirrored body for grommet. As I have said grommet I hope this is the correct version to print.

Will not mirror any other parts as they seem to be symmetrical (will not use snap on guide).

There are no shops nearby where I can buy metric screws around so will have to order online. I do have some 35mm M3 screws however your description says I need 30mm. Is it ok if I shim it with handful of washers?

Last question, which version of hub+yoke do I need for regular PLA? As I understand 35-39mm versions are for softer materials?

thank you!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Personally I prefer the version that uses a piece of bowden. But the grommet version should work as well. I don't know if it's just my imagination but I feel like that version is more likely to have the filament slip off the bearing.

Shim away. And you might also be able to steal a screw from the machine instead. Check the length of the screws that hold the frame together or the screws that hold the cover plates for the electronics in place. I'm too lazy to check the length of those right now :)

I would go with the 38mm one to start. IIRC that's the length I started with way back. People kept asking for longer/shorter pieces over and over which is why I dumped a whole bunch of lengths in there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello again,

as I have already started this topic about removing various plastic panels from my UM2GO, let's continue :)...

How do I remove the center panel that covers z axis bearings? Picture below...

Some topics about UM2 refer to unscrewing 2 screws under the building platform and the plastic panel just slides up but I am not sure I see those screws anywhere in my UM2GO. Thanks in advance.

4bb22fe43e7767da17f08a37d003860844.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have no idea and the github isn't as self explanatory as on ither machines.

I would check the pdf of that part of the bed:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Go/blob/master/1717/B1717-C.PDF

Or better, check the full 3D model step file:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Go/tree/master/3D%20model

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

wow, your going all the way!!

I didn't come this far, gave up before dismantling the electronics board...

I assume you grab the rods inside the printer and try to turn and push them down, but it looks like a really tight fit...

Started also on the top but that means all the walls come loose and stopped there.

Let us know how you are progressing, I am really interested!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, the question was about removing z-rods. I figured it out in a minute following my post so removed the question hoping no one saw it.

So yeah, I was having issues with Z layer dropping around 10-20mm. Other than that, printing just fine, machine purchased only few weeks ago.

I wrapped a piece of old t-shirt around z-rods and took them out with pliers. Required little less force than I expected. Took rods out through the bottom of the printer. Yep, had to remove electronics board out of the way to make way for one rod.

I really suck at fixing/disassembling stuff so the whole process took approx. 4 hours. Once the z-rods were out, I found out that vertical bearings had some kind of nasty oil/cream inside, so I cleaned both rods and bearings with WD-40. Then cleaned WD-40 residue with isopropyl alcohol and re-oiled everything with tiny amount of baby oil before assembling.

Space is extremely cramped in UM2GO. It took me almost 30 minutes to remove one screw holding the corner of the electronics board. I did not put it back again in case I'll need to repeat this procedure again.

After cleaning, one rod/bearing combination is perfect. I put it back in 'more difficult to access' place. The other pair is slightly better then it was so we'll see... Now printing 10cm high tower to see if it fixed my Z issues.

At first I tried accessing everything from the top but, like peggyb, stopped after a while not wanting the walls to become loose.

I couldn't have done it without reading 10+ threads on this forum. Last post here was especially helpful and inspired me to try and fix these issues myself:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17753-um-2-skipping-layers

While I was typing this message my test print is already 40mm high and no skipped layers so far, fingers crossed... :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
So yeah, I was having issues with Z layer dropping around 10-20mm

this is a lot! don't you mean 1-2 mm?? The z-motor/leadscrew won't allow this amount, unless the problem IS the z-motor/leadscrew.

1-2 mm is the amount of the play from the z-nut. Do you also have a little play in the z-nut? (grab the end of the table and lift it up) like this:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it's done!

there was a lot of blue stuff inside the bearings, but I guess they need some lubrication.

@neotko: maybe the bearing are not great quality, when cleaning I could still feel some irregularities moving the rod in my hand with the bearing. Did you try to put some weight on the bed close to the bearings?

@2Go: surprisingly the last screw of the electronics board was the easiest... this was the only one where the metal spacer came loose, and it is so much easier to assemble it from the outside then this fiddling on the inside..

Hope everything helpt...

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Announcements

  • Our picks

    • Architect Design Contest | Vehicles.
      We're open for entries! - Design and submit your 3D designs of architectural entourage - vehicles - for a chance to win a large filament pack. Presenting an idea, an architectural design or something as big as an urban project isn't easy. A scaled model can really help to get your idea across.
        • Like
      • 25 replies
    • What The DfAM?
      I'm Steve Cox, an experienced engineer familiar with 3D printing. I wanted to share some DfAM guidelines with this community to help and make stronger parts.
      I'm also an Autodesk Certified Instructor for Fusion 360, so many of the images in ...
        • Thanks
        • Like
      • 23 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!