Dual Cooling fan upgrade for UMO+

[LePaul 321]

Been working on something similar but the old cpu fan I am using on the right side didn't splice over well with the Snap Locks I used (wire too thin for them, i think)

Also some concern that old fan wouldn't play nice with PWM so going to order some newer ones. What model did you go with ?

Here's what I have partially assembled now.

[Blake215 0]

I figured exposing the aluminum block was going to be a problem I was hoping that I would be able to think of a way to design an air block to protect the alu block.

Heres the link for the fans I bought.

http://www.amazon.com/0-1A-40mm-Connector-Computer-Brushless/dp/B00E1JO8SG/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1456363056&sr=1-2&keywords=DC+12V+0.1A+40mm+x+40mm+2+Pin+Connector+PC+CPU+Computer+Case+Brushless+DC+Fan

[LePaul 321]

40mm? See I need 50mm for the non + UMO

[Blake215 0]

Yeah, I used two 40mm fans like they have on the Ultimaker 2's now. My UMO+ in the beginning had just one 50mm fan on it, but I removed that completely and replaced it with two 40mm fans one on each side. I'm not sure how the non + are set up.

[Blake215 0]

The only problem I see on that kind of airflow it's that the alu block it's way too exposed to air. If you need to cool the printed part at 1mm z the temp might go down too much and build preassure that can grind filament, pop bowden or just underextrude. I really think that any kind of air-block it's a must to have a reliable air cooling. Ofc after all that you need the best air physics posible, not just air.

There's a lot of profound study about it on a foehnsturm post about simetrical fans for umo, that was abandoned in favor for the more efficient crossflow fan (imo the best pla cooling system but a bit restrictive for other materials).

 

I just printed a part with PLA at 210 C and I started the fans at .5mm just to see what would happen with the temperature, and there were no problems. The block cooled down 2 degrees for a couple seconds and then immediately warmed back up. I'm not sure if printing at higher temperatures will have a different result, but right now I had no under extrusion or grinding with the extruder.

[neotko 1,417]

That 2C lost it's on the heater area, where the pt100 it's. But the actual heat lost it's higher near the nozzle where you can't see the heat. And by a few mm, I mean if you need big overhangs at 1-2mm near the plate with full fans on.

Other problem of not having the heater block isolated it's that the heat that comes from it affects the print radiating heat.

Your setup btw sure works, but it might give you trouble on the long run, or with big flat objects with complex overhangs. Ofc if it suits your kinds of prints, perfect

[tommyph1208 55]

I figured exposing the aluminum block was going to be a problem I was hoping that I would be able to think of a way to design an air block to protect the alu block.

 

My crossflow setup exposes the heatblock and nozzle to ALOT of air... So I bought some ceramic "tape" (its more like cloth), and wrapped it around the heatblock with some kapton tape to hold it in place... Works like a charm!

[neotko 1,417]

Indeed any insulation should work nice. The problem with lossing temp it's that when you need fans at 100% the heat will bounce up and down, changing (on some pla) the color, opacity, etc.