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LePaul

Bed Temperature not climbing (UMO Heated Bed Upgrade)

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Well a few snags in the upgrade kit....doing my first test print using the Ultimaker robot model using the latest Cura (15.04.4). Bed temp set to default (70) and upon loading the file into the printer, the bed temp sits at 17/70, then briefly 18/70, then back to 17.

Everything was followed to the letter of the directions....not sure where to start looking...will double check things are still plugged where they were supposed to. Firmware was upgraded, etc.

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@SanderVg any ideas? I wonder if there are any areas I should check with the multi-meter?

PCB has power (green LED lit)

Here's some pictures...

No issues going on here...everything is connected fine....but if you spot something I didn't...tell me!

image2.thumb.JPG.4a22cb1cc0b0f7bdd8e381b6ed18dcb5.JPG

Heated Bed PCB...we have power (Green LED lit) the large heater wires (grey) are in fine. The connector below has me a little concerned how it droops a bit...but the connection is secure.

image1.thumb.JPG.80cd64960c104eaff7c9d4a3a3c23d0d.JPG

I can print...and as I quickly discovered, a print quickly falls apart fast on cold glass :) But wow, that Z stepper movement is MUCH quicker than the original one! I am really struggling to remember which way to turn those knobs to move the bed up and down!

image2.thumb.JPG.4a22cb1cc0b0f7bdd8e381b6ed18dcb5.JPG

image1.thumb.JPG.80cd64960c104eaff7c9d4a3a3c23d0d.JPG

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Do you mean it doesn't heat up after you gave it the command to?

The first thing (and I have to think hard to find a second reason) that comes to me is that either the heater cables are not properly secured on the terminal end or on your heated bed terminal.

On your electronics it doesn't matter how they are installed, but I believe it does on your heated bed.

Could you send a picture on how those are installed?

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USA Support replied with some good advice. I took the bed apart and verified that everything is connected properly.

To your question about the RED LED....no, not present. I loaded a print and the printer said Heating Bed, then checked. Just the GREEN LED.

Here's how the wires are connected to the bed. Per the documentation, it's all correct.

image34.thumb.JPG.8fa816b8a001ab37f0a5d7245b7c2db4.JPG

USA Support asked me to check the resistance per this graphic.

Bed_Resistance.thumb.jpg.d832b189cedf1ff0de3cf519d61bc790.jpg

AS you can see, I am way lower than the suggested (same reading on all three spots)..No idea why the forum software insists on displaying it sideways...

IMG_0033.thumb.JPG.feee78950cf395a8fbf012c7698dc5c3.JPG

Any idea what's gone awry based on this?

image34.thumb.JPG.8fa816b8a001ab37f0a5d7245b7c2db4.JPG

Bed_Resistance.thumb.jpg.d832b189cedf1ff0de3cf519d61bc790.jpg

IMG_0033.thumb.JPG.feee78950cf395a8fbf012c7698dc5c3.JPG

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Turn on ONLY the bed and not the nozzle. In the first image below you should see light coming from that LED as shown. If not something is wrong with this board or arduino or your firmware. I doubt it's the firmware as any version of firmware that mentions heated bed is probably the correct version. Even if the wires coming out of the pcb are broken or disconnected from the next board you will still get the led to light up when it is trying to heat.

5a33164ba243f_2016-01-1409_59_29.thumb.jpg.de0ec2c5b0cf63800cc4542500e82160.jpg

Now on the newer board - you want this LED to light up as shown. If not then most likely it's the red/black cable coming in from the left at the bottom of the photo - check both ends of that cable - especially the end where it plugs into the main circuit board - that's the most likely faiure point - those 2 screws.

If the red light *is* on then you were checking the right things - the 2 screws shown in this second image just above the red led, check the wiring to the bed and so on.

5a33164bc0dda_2016-01-1409_59_37.thumb.jpg.5f23bb762ea1b8b22bcc9171c74cc2d7.jpg

5a33164ba243f_2016-01-1409_59_29.thumb.jpg.de0ec2c5b0cf63800cc4542500e82160.jpg

5a33164bc0dda_2016-01-1409_59_37.thumb.jpg.5f23bb762ea1b8b22bcc9171c74cc2d7.jpg

Edited by Guest

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Thanks for your responses.

To turn on the bed only, I have been going into the menu, Temperature, Bed and turning that up to 50.  Correct?

I do not see a red light on the new PCB.  I did not think to check the main board as you suggested. I will check the TEMP 3 area for a light when i get home

I just heard back from fabrc8 and they think the cable is bad and are sending out a new one under warranty.

I will check that red/black wire on both ends (as pictured from the manual)

Capture.thumb.JPG.73fbb170f0bdc255abad8bac2a1c1155.JPG

Capture.thumb.JPG.73fbb170f0bdc255abad8bac2a1c1155.JPG

Edited by Guest

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I have been going into the menu, Temperature, Bed and turning that up to 50

Yes. But make sure you also leave the nozzle at 0C so you don't get that light confused with the bed one.

Sander was talking about the red led that you can see in the right photo above - kind of under the heatsink. Just above screwdriver in photo. He was saying in your first photo way way above you can see that LED through the hole of the heatsink.

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@gr5, just checked....yes to red light! But not to the heated bed PCB so that got me thinking...

I recalled that where the red/black where screws into the power terminals seemed a little wiggly. I unscrewed the terminals, removed the wires and put them back in again, going a little extra tight.

Well, now we have red LEDs on the Heated Bed PCB! And since the heated build plate wasn't attached to the bed....i discovered how warm it gets!

Right now I'm doing a test print and impressed how flat the first layer goes on a 70C plate!

One other thing....is it normal for the Z screw to sound ticky? The print is going very well, asides the usual robot hands looking ugly...and the Z layers look good. Maybe a bit of grease?

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You should be aware that now you have a heated bed, you'll also have heat radiant.

So overhangs a few cm above the bed will be droopier than before.

That is something to take into account, and potentially work around if necessary.

About the crease, by tightening some screws on the other side of the Zstage, can you pull this side from the back plate?

Wood works, so it is also possible your frame did over time and after a paint job.

I don't think it hurts, but if you want you could file it?

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The bed does a sandy noise = bearings normal noise

The nut woobles up/down more than 0.1mm = You need a new nut

Do a home and on move the z slowly from 0 to the end. And check that it doesn't do any 'jump'.

If only bearings do the sound, don't touch it's normal. Z grease only on threaded rod (middle the one of the motor) the two shafts where the linear bearings go don't need oil and using oil can make the noisy bearings to get stuck on areas.

You bed should move perfectly but if doesn't check this posts, many sollutions:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11123-z-axis-layer-error?page=last

Edited by Guest

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I moved the bed up and down a few times using the Z movement option on the Ulticontroller. I also added a bit of grease and the movement is very smooth, just that rubbing where the Z-Top cover rubs the back of the UMO back piece. A little annoying but knowing the source isn't mechanical...I'm OK with.

Plus UMO's make all sorts of noise and this new bed just continues the tradition.

I recorded the entire upgrade process and am going to post my YouTube review of the upgrade on my channel soon. :)

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