Bed Temperature not climbing (UMO Heated Bed Upgrade)

[LePaul 321]

Well a few snags in the upgrade kit....doing my first test print using the Ultimaker robot model using the latest Cura (15.04.4). Bed temp set to default (70) and upon loading the file into the printer, the bed temp sits at 17/70, then briefly 18/70, then back to 17.

Everything was followed to the letter of the directions....not sure where to start looking...will double check things are still plugged where they were supposed to. Firmware was upgraded, etc.

[LePaul 321]

@SanderVg any ideas? I wonder if there are any areas I should check with the multi-meter?

PCB has power (green LED lit)

Here's some pictures...

No issues going on here...everything is connected fine....but if you spot something I didn't...tell me!

Heated Bed PCB...we have power (Green LED lit) the large heater wires (grey) are in fine. The connector below has me a little concerned how it droops a bit...but the connection is secure.

I can print...and as I quickly discovered, a print quickly falls apart fast on cold glass But wow, that Z stepper movement is MUCH quicker than the original one! I am really struggling to remember which way to turn those knobs to move the bed up and down!

[LePaul 321]

I meant to add...I did submit a support ticket to the USA support desk.

[SandervG 1,521]

Do you mean it doesn't heat up after you gave it the command to?

The first thing (and I have to think hard to find a second reason) that comes to me is that either the heater cables are not properly secured on the terminal end or on your heated bed terminal.

On your electronics it doesn't matter how they are installed, but I believe it does on your heated bed.

Could you send a picture on how those are installed?

[LePaul 321]

Hi, I did it exactly as the manual showed. I'm at work so I can't photograph the plate at the moment

But correct...I created a print that uses the new profile (heat plate is checked off) and sets the bed to 70C. When the print starts, it says heating the bed but stays at 17/70

[SandervG 1,521]

To me that sounds like there is something wrong with the cables.

Do both the red LED's at the terminals light up by the way? They indicate it is actually heating.

[LePaul 321]

No red lights noticed...where, on the PCB, are they located? I can check for that

[SandervG 1,521]

Yes. When your printhead is heating (which it does) it should also blink.

It is a red LED on your PCB, like right next/behind the screw terminal for the heaters.

[LePaul 321]

Okay is that labeled D1 on the PCB?

I had no red lights last night but will check again

And photograph the leads into the bed itself

[SandervG 1,521]

you can literally see the left LED on your first picture, through the left transistor, right above the screw terminal.

Sorry, don't have a PCB around so can't check how it is labelled.

[LePaul 321]

USA Support replied with some good advice. I took the bed apart and verified that everything is connected properly.

To your question about the RED LED....no, not present. I loaded a print and the printer said Heating Bed, then checked. Just the GREEN LED.

Here's how the wires are connected to the bed. Per the documentation, it's all correct.

USA Support asked me to check the resistance per this graphic.

AS you can see, I am way lower than the suggested (same reading on all three spots)..No idea why the forum software insists on displaying it sideways...

Any idea what's gone awry based on this?

[gr5 2,172]

arrgg -- this is frustrating to read, lol. If the LED is not lighting you are wasting your time checking cables and bed. If the led is not lighting you need to work from there backwards to the arduino.

[gr5 2,172]

Turn on ONLY the bed and not the nozzle. In the first image below you should see light coming from that LED as shown. If not something is wrong with this board or arduino or your firmware. I doubt it's the firmware as any version of firmware that mentions heated bed is probably the correct version. Even if the wires coming out of the pcb are broken or disconnected from the next board you will still get the led to light up when it is trying to heat.

Now on the newer board - you want this LED to light up as shown. If not then most likely it's the red/black cable coming in from the left at the bottom of the photo - check both ends of that cable - especially the end where it plugs into the main circuit board - that's the most likely faiure point - those 2 screws.

If the red light *is* on then you were checking the right things - the 2 screws shown in this second image just above the red led, check the wiring to the bed and so on.

Edited January 14, 2016 by Guest

[gr5 2,172]

By the way - you really don't want to power up the main PCB without the fan and cover as there are a few key components that can overheat and fail in well under a minute. Whereas the new - smaller PCB can run without it's cover no problem.

[LePaul 321]

Thanks for your responses.

To turn on the bed only, I have been going into the menu, Temperature, Bed and turning that up to 50.  Correct?

I do not see a red light on the new PCB.  I did not think to check the main board as you suggested. I will check the TEMP 3 area for a light when i get home

I just heard back from fabrc8 and they think the cable is bad and are sending out a new one under warranty.

I will check that red/black wire on both ends (as pictured from the manual)

Edited January 14, 2016 by Guest

[gr5 2,172]

I have been going into the menu, Temperature, Bed and turning that up to 50

Yes. But make sure you also leave the nozzle at 0C so you don't get that light confused with the bed one.

Sander was talking about the red led that you can see in the right photo above - kind of under the heatsink. Just above screwdriver in photo. He was saying in your first photo way way above you can see that LED through the hole of the heatsink.

[LePaul 321]

I see what you mean, okay...so I should see SOME sort of red glow if the bed is heating...

New part was shipped, so if that's the problem, it should get here in 2-3 days

[LePaul 321]

@gr5, just checked....yes to red light! But not to the heated bed PCB so that got me thinking...

I recalled that where the red/black where screws into the power terminals seemed a little wiggly. I unscrewed the terminals, removed the wires and put them back in again, going a little extra tight.

Well, now we have red LEDs on the Heated Bed PCB! And since the heated build plate wasn't attached to the bed....i discovered how warm it gets!

Right now I'm doing a test print and impressed how flat the first layer goes on a 70C plate!

One other thing....is it normal for the Z screw to sound ticky? The print is going very well, asides the usual robot hands looking ugly...and the Z layers look good. Maybe a bit of grease?

[LePaul 321]

Okay heated bed working!

I see a crease on the back piece of my Ultimaker from the Z-Cap rubbing against it.

Should this be a concern? I mean it will eventually wear ...but it's a bit noisy as the Z moves. I'll post a pic soon

[LePaul 321]

Crease forming...Z-Cap rubbing back wall

[SandervG 1,521]

You should be aware that now you have a heated bed, you'll also have heat radiant.

So overhangs a few cm above the bed will be droopier than before.

That is something to take into account, and potentially work around if necessary.

About the crease, by tightening some screws on the other side of the Zstage, can you pull this side from the back plate?

Wood works, so it is also possible your frame did over time and after a paint job.

I don't think it hurts, but if you want you could file it?

[SandervG 1,521]

And congratulations on getting the bed to work!

[LePaul 321]

Hi

Yeah the Ultimaker Robot test print was tough, the hands, the first overhangs, had a really tough time! I need to find out what the sweet spot it for temps on the bed

[neotko 1,417]

The bed does a sandy noise = bearings normal noise

The nut woobles up/down more than 0.1mm = You need a new nut

Do a home and on move the z slowly from 0 to the end. And check that it doesn't do any 'jump'.

If only bearings do the sound, don't touch it's normal. Z grease only on threaded rod (middle the one of the motor) the two shafts where the linear bearings go don't need oil and using oil can make the noisy bearings to get stuck on areas.

You bed should move perfectly but if doesn't check this posts, many sollutions:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11123-z-axis-layer-error?page=last

Edited January 15, 2016 by Guest

[LePaul 321]

I moved the bed up and down a few times using the Z movement option on the Ulticontroller. I also added a bit of grease and the movement is very smooth, just that rubbing where the Z-Top cover rubs the back of the UMO back piece. A little annoying but knowing the source isn't mechanical...I'm OK with.

Plus UMO's make all sorts of noise and this new bed just continues the tradition.

I recorded the entire upgrade process and am going to post my YouTube review of the upgrade on my channel soon.