Bed Temperature not climbing (UMO Heated Bed Upgrade)

[LePaul 321]

Well I am in a vicious loop.

If I print XT, I need the heated bed.

With my poor cooling on one side, that will fail too

Sigh. Ultimaker should just gift me a new printer

[neotko 1,417]

Carbonfill from formfutura works perfect on bluetape and no fans. Prints at 245C+ and the printed stuff don't deforms up to 85 ( its what I use for my symmetric umo print head). Ofc carbon eats nozzles for breakfast...

[LePaul 321]

No fan at all through the entire print?

I haven't followed the carbon fiber print threads since i figure my printer was less equipped than the U2

[neotko 1,417]

Colorfabb carbon I printed less but carbonfill formfutura I have printed a good 8 kilos so I'm confident on that no-fan. Also it does pretty good bridges if you config de bridge to actually extrude at 100% and extra flow for the bridge (simplify3d).

Edited February 5, 2016 by Guest

[LePaul 321]

Ugh....so I level bed, adjust knobs during skirt...things look good....

Then first layer, the nozzle starts knocking the first layer items off the bed. Bed at 60 for first layer.

Goodness I used to be good at printing. Now every print is a struggle.

[neotko 1,417]

Make a video print ntit ng a simple cube. Maybe we can debug the source of your headaches.

[LePaul 321]

Beer helped (thank you Guinness)....and another session of bed leveling.

[neotko 1,417]

Hey maybe the metal part that scratch the wood it's adding preassure and changing your real bed position? I have a bed with that part (because they build that for um2) and I did file hard the aluminium before installing it. Maybe that's why I don't notice a problem on that umo builded with the bed kit?

[LePaul 321]

Well a bit better result.

Still could be better. 40mm sec , 0.2 and 200c. Bed 42

[LePaul 321]

[LePaul 321]

Maybe it does need support?

[LePaul 321]

Trying again....bottom layer back to 0.3

And support

[LePaul 321]

Well the latest attempt with support did a tad better and the bottom looked better

So here's the results

Now I removed the 3mm nut holding the fan so I could loosen the long threaded rods and turn the print head thinnest side front. I had to loosen the heater/ probe screw to get it moved

Trying to maneuver those wires around isn't much fun.

...and it is very clear now that the heater block is very close to where the second fan would be (right side). A PLA housing is going to melt if I attempt to attach it onto those threaded rods

I'm a little concerned placing the fan into those threaded screws will suffer the same fate. I didn't really think this through that a second fan is really close to the print head!

I'm up for ideas! I'm going to pause here since I can easily go backwards if I need to

[peggyb 170]

and remember when you have the 2 fans installed you have to pay attention when printing more items with 'one at a time'. The new fan is probably going to knock hit earlier print, unless you always keep this in mind or change the size of the printhead settings.

[LePaul 321]

Good point

I am starting to think this design might be more promising

[LePaul 321]

Well it is always a nice thing when you take things apart, put them back together and get a good print

Vent 2 for the additional fan

Edited February 7, 2016 by Guest

[LePaul 321]

Another little discovery

The fan I have and the fan on the UMO is 50mm (49.91).

Now on to the fan duct for the original fan

[neotko 1,417]

The sticker use to be the air out, so if you see the sticker the air will go out. Long story short, flip it

[LePaul 321]

It blows air...I tested Sticker on each side

I'm still concerned about how close the duct is to the print head...trying to think of some low budget/scrap alu ideas to help it

[neotko 1,417]

3d printed steel it's very cheap if you keep it small

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/8689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2-the-olsson-block?page=35&sort=#reply-125546

And installed here:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/8689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2-the-olsson-block?page=36&sort=#reply-127993

[LePaul 321]

I'm not sure I could use that in the UMO

[LePaul 321]

Printed Solid had Stainless Steel but sold out in 2.85

Hmm.  Has anyone printed COLORFABB XT-CF20 on a UMO?   Can it?

And....if I wanted a 'hardened nozzle', do they make one that the UMO can use?

Edited February 7, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

No, that's for my magnetic head but I'm going to make a cap for umo+ using the same stuff so I have a better cooling on my third umo since umo+ metal cap isn't the best for e3d nozzles.

You can use any e3d steel nozzle on your umo... They are m6

Edited February 7, 2016 by Guest

[LePaul 321]

Okay. I dropped @gr5 an email since I know he is a reseller and I'd like to give him my money before others I also found Printed Solid has some if he is out. I just have to be sure it is 3mm and 0.40

[neotko 1,417]

This might be what I'll order in steel for my umo+

But first I need to pla test print it