Bed Temperature not climbing (UMO Heated Bed Upgrade)

[SandervG 1,521]

Have you also considered adding the fan to this part of the screws?

That is where they were located when I installed my second fan.

[LePaul 321]

That's not a bad idea, I'm curious if what I printed would (1) Fit there and (2) Survive the heat.

[neotko 1,417]

This it's the design I just ordered to imaterialize, 24€ or so

It works with e3d nozzles, for umo nozzles (who uses them anymore?) it should need 1mm more on the hole clearence. The clip holes are 2.7mm, so they can be process with a M3 Tap (this works perfect on my other 3d printed steel part that I use) . This will protect the head forever and you could use any fan design, as long the air comes from the sides ofc.

[SandervG 1,521]

You current model could fit, but I think it would be better if you for example added some holders to it in for example tinkercad, so it ends up at the same area as where you originally would mount it. If you mount it somewhere else the cool air it is generating will probably not end up with your 3D print.

[LePaul 321]

Here's the second fan test fitted.

I am not sure it would fit above the metal piece due to how the shroud slopes

I'm also questioning if I should print it in XT or something that will tolerate heat better?

I am also noticing where the heating block threads into the next piece up (ceramic?), that if offset a bit.  I'm not sure if that is a problem since messing with that will just make the nozzle offset (again)

Here's the test fit...

Also, here is the part from Thingiverse

Edited February 8, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Indeed, but if you start to mess with the airflow, you will find out (like many others) that, the best solution it's to make your 2 fan design, because in the end you will end having less air from a side than the other, so it's always better to start from scratch

Edited February 8, 2016 by Guest

[LePaul 321]

Well that is for the right side

Here's what inspired him...this is for the existing fan (left side)

[neotko 1,417]

Well to isolate the heater from air, you can use ceraic paper, it's quite ok, but easy to break if you don't 'kapton' it. I have a roll but I don't like how weak it's. Anyway, it works.

Edited February 8, 2016 by Guest

[LePaul 321]

What's interesting is how nicely these two shrouds printed

I'm curious....would XT be a good choice of material for the shrouds? Or would the heat kill them too?

[SandervG 1,521]

I think they should live. You usually print PLA right?

[neotko 1,417]

That close to the metal, they will bend like pancakes. That why I recommend you a ceramic paper insulation. You can go the fast route and print pla and use kapton around it. The areas will bend a little, but much less. I know it's easy to just print more, but in my experience its really annoying

[SandervG 1,521]

I just checked and the glass transition temp of XT is 75ºC. So @Neotko is right.

[LePaul 321]

Well nuts.

It looks like I get to join the ranks of Carbon Fiber experimenters unless I can find something else. Kapton tape isn't something I really want to mess with

[LePaul 321]

I wonder if this would be something for the new ColorFabb nGen?

[neotko 1,417]

Lol indeed I forgot about ngen also 85C glass transition.

[LePaul 321]

Lol indeed I forgot about ngen also 85C glass transition.

 

XT-CF20 is 80C

Oh what to do...