Dimafix? or Kapton tape?

[ffreak 1]

I don'k know what to choose: Dimafix or Kapton tape to solve may heated bed adhesion problems ...

[Nicolinux 288]

I'd say neither. I am using 3DLac and up until now it worked great. I found it on Ebay in Germany.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMt8RNWd6vw

[martin-bienz 36]

 

@Nicolinux, quick question, dit you try for ABS and PLA? Others? Bed temp. as usual? Thanks.

[ffreak 1]

yo Nicolinux, thx for your reply.

What filament are you printing with? I'm printing hips.

[Nicolinux 288]

I don't use it on PLA because this sticks to the heated bed by itself. But I had trouble making colorFabb XTCF-20 stick to the heated bed (at 70° ). With this stuff it works perfectly.

Another trouble maker was iglidur Tribo filament (that's very abrasion resistant filament) and it works with it too. So I would assume it would work for ABS too.

Edited January 14, 2016 by Guest

[martin-bienz 36]

 

@Nicolinux, okay, thanks. I will try with XT (and maybe also with PLA, just for fun) when I get a can...

[neotko 1,418]

In my experience Hairspray with pla sticks waaay too much. On my old xyz printer once I almost break the glass. So for hairspray (3dlac made in spain it's that without perfume) I place bluetape (but the tape sometimes stick to the print too much also)...

@Nicolinux how hard it's to remove the print with 3dlac?

[martin-bienz 36]

I have no experience with hairspray, but with blue tape and also glue / glue stick. Blue tape only sticks too much, if you really squeeze the first layer into the tape. OR if you use alcohol on the blue tape. I did that a few times when I wanted it to stick really well for critical prints (but it's a pain afterwards to remove the blue tape from the print...).

[Nicolinux 288]

@neotko: When the heated bed cools down it is not super hard to remove. For wide parts like this I had to wedge an utility knife's blade under one edge in order to break the adhesion and slowly wiggle the part free. If an area big enough has been freed that the adhesion breaks immediately and I can lift the entire part at once.

So to sum up - it is not as easy to remove as PLA without glue when the heated bed cools down, but not very hard either. I saw stubborn prints where I had to resort to desperate tactics like freezing the glass plate - but not with 3DLac

[xbrain666 0]

I use Dimafix because I had sticking problems with first layer with ABS, event using glue.

I think it is the best for thi kind of problems: once applied, it sticks like HELL at 85°. no warping with ABS on very large surface.

My preferred use for problematic materials...

[ffreak 1]

I use Dimafix because I had sticking problems with first layer with ABS, event using glue.

I think it is the best for thi kind of problems: once applied, it sticks like HELL at 85°. no warping with ABS on very large surface.

My preferred use for problematic materials...

 

xbrain666, what about the first printlayer: slow printing? extra wide printing? or the same as the other layers?