ffreak 1 Posted January 13, 2016 in Dimafix? or Kapton tape? I don'k know what to choose: Dimafix or Kapton tape to solve may heated bed adhesion problems ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nicolinux 250 Posted January 13, 2016 in Dimafix? or Kapton tape? I'd say neither. I am using 3DLac and up until now it worked great. I found it on Ebay in Germany. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMt8RNWd6vw Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
martin-bienz 36 Posted January 13, 2016 in Dimafix? or Kapton tape? @Nicolinux, quick question, dit you try for ABS and PLA? Others? Bed temp. as usual? Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ffreak 1 Posted January 14, 2016 in Dimafix? or Kapton tape? yo Nicolinux, thx for your reply. What filament are you printing with? I'm printing hips. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nicolinux 250 Posted January 14, 2016 in Dimafix? or Kapton tape? (edited) I don't use it on PLA because this sticks to the heated bed by itself. But I had trouble making colorFabb XTCF-20 stick to the heated bed (at 70° ). With this stuff it works perfectly. Another trouble maker was iglidur Tribo filament (that's very abrasion resistant filament) and it works with it too. So I would assume it would work for ABS too. Edited January 14, 2016 by Guest Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
martin-bienz 36 Posted January 14, 2016 in Dimafix? or Kapton tape? @Nicolinux, okay, thanks. I will try with XT (and maybe also with PLA, just for fun) when I get a can... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neotko 1,354 Posted January 14, 2016 in Dimafix? or Kapton tape? In my experience Hairspray with pla sticks waaay too much. On my old xyz printer once I almost break the glass. So for hairspray (3dlac made in spain it's that without perfume) I place bluetape (but the tape sometimes stick to the print too much also)... @Nicolinux how hard it's to remove the print with 3dlac? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
martin-bienz 36 Posted January 14, 2016 in Dimafix? or Kapton tape? I have no experience with hairspray, but with blue tape and also glue / glue stick. Blue tape only sticks too much, if you really squeeze the first layer into the tape. OR if you use alcohol on the blue tape. I did that a few times when I wanted it to stick really well for critical prints (but it's a pain afterwards to remove the blue tape from the print...). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nicolinux 250 Posted January 14, 2016 in Dimafix? or Kapton tape? @neotko: When the heated bed cools down it is not super hard to remove. For wide parts like this I had to wedge an utility knife's blade under one edge in order to break the adhesion and slowly wiggle the part free. If an area big enough has been freed that the adhesion breaks immediately and I can lift the entire part at once. So to sum up - it is not as easy to remove as PLA without glue when the heated bed cools down, but not very hard either. I saw stubborn prints where I had to resort to desperate tactics like freezing the glass plate - but not with 3DLac 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xbrain666 0 Posted January 14, 2016 in Dimafix? or Kapton tape? I use Dimafix because I had sticking problems with first layer with ABS, event using glue. I think it is the best for thi kind of problems: once applied, it sticks like HELL at 85°. no warping with ABS on very large surface. My preferred use for problematic materials... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ffreak 1 Posted January 15, 2016 in Dimafix? or Kapton tape? I use Dimafix because I had sticking problems with first layer with ABS, event using glue. I think it is the best for thi kind of problems: once applied, it sticks like HELL at 85°. no warping with ABS on very large surface. My preferred use for problematic materials... xbrain666, what about the first printlayer: slow printing? extra wide printing? or the same as the other layers? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
