Lot's of trouble leveling bed since heated bed install

[anon4321 16]

You need to know how to use python to run the scripts that generate the gcode for the rings.

There are two gcode files, one for the UM1 and another for the UM2. Download the correct one ending in .gcode here:

https://github.com/markdeklerk/UltimakerUtils/tree/712ca4432df42e686d093931bc2c515927c6e630

The .gcode flles can be printed directly from an SD card.

If you wanted a different number of circles or a different layer height or size, you would need to modify the correct .py file and run it with Python.

[yellowshark 153]

Sorry but if you get your levelling right there should be no need to re-level for months and months, unless you change the nozzle which may change the z-offset distance, or possibly use a non-normal PLA which has different flow characteristics (that is a guess).

[Titus 170]

I'm surprised so many people state you have to relevel every print. Once I got the hang of leveling with a thin piece of paper, I haven't leveled for months, except when I move the printer. Even after taking the glass out and cleaning it I don't need a relevel.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

same here, almost never needed, not even after I bring it in the car somewhere......

[LePaul 321]

Well how many of you have Ultimaker Originals with a heated bed? I mean the Ultimaker 2 is manufactured for you...so there's a difference there. (Not to knock my kit assembly...!)

Ok, I looked at the link and see the gcode. I just need to use a text editor to change the temperature to something a lot lower (like 210). My ColorFabb isn't rated to go that high and do nice things!

[yellowshark 153]

Lol when we are playing baseball sometimes the guys use the printer to stand on when pitching and I guess I ought to re-level after that but I don't.

[neotko 1,417]

One of my umo+ it's build using the umo heated bed kit (and everything else except the board its from ultimaker). And works just like the others. The only difference from the umo bed kit and umo+ bed for me was that the bed kit had a small part 'cut' that it's where the um2 uses a screw to hit the z stop. Everything else, cables etc, it's just the same.

Edited January 29, 2016 by Guest

[SandervG 1,521]

Lol when we are playing baseball sometimes the guys use the printer to stand on when pitching and I guess I ought to re-level after that but I don't.

 

.. wait whut? ..guys stand on the printer when pitching?

[yellowshark 153]

Well that's Brits for you; rumour has that the UK user group is going to block the channel tunnel with printers if Europe implements border controls

[LePaul 321]

One of my umo+ it's build using the umo heated bed kit (and everything else except the board its from ultimaker). And works just like the others. The only difference from the umo bed kit and umo+ bed for me was that the bed kit had a small part 'cut' that it's where the um2 uses a screw to hit the z stop. Everything else, cables etc, it's just the same.

 

Well the other annoyance is the upgraded Z-Cap rubs against the back of the printer. I really don't want to take the thing all apart and sand the back of it. Every time the z goes down a bit, you get that wood-on-wood squeak...and it's not killing the prints...but just adds the chattering charm of the UMO

[anon4321 16]

I did the heated bed upgrade on a self assembled UMO. I don't relevel for every print.

You can just adjust the temperature to your liking. The one issue with the gcode files are they are for a fixed first layer size and a fixed filament size. For the most part they will work OK. However, if you filament size is thicker or thinner you might not get the best results.

However, they should help you level the bed.

[LePaul 321]

 

M107                            ;start with the fan offG21                             ;metric valuesG90                             ;absolute positioningM82                             ;set extruder to absolute modeM107                            ;start with the fan offG28 X0 Y0                       ;move X/Y to min endstopsG28 Z0                          ;move Z to min endstopsG1 Z15.0 F9000                  ;move the platform down 15mmM140 S60.00                   ;set bed temp (no wait)M109 T0 S230.00             ;set extruder temp (wait)G92 E0                          ;zero the extruded lengthG1 F200 E3                      ;extrude 3mm of feed stockG92 E0                          ;zero the extruded length againG1 F9000                        ;set speed to 9000;Put printing message on LCD screenM117 Printing...

 

Well I see on the UM1 one, the bed temp goes to 60...good, then I need to change the temp to 215. Then the filament extrude to 9mm (just works better)

My ColorFabb filament is (2.85).

I didn't see anything in that gcode that would address the layer size?

[yellowshark 153]

In general it comes a couple of lines later

M117 Printing...

;Layer count: 134

;LAYER:0

M107

G0 F9000 X122.200 Y112.200 Z0.100

ie the layer is 0.100 - oop sorry

the last line is positioning the z-axis relative to its last position, which as this is the 1st layer will be 0 - which means the layer height for this layer is .1

Edited January 29, 2016 by Guest

[anon4321 16]

Unfortunately, you can't simply adjust the layer height or the filament size on the UM1 gcode because the UM1 uses linear Z feed amounts. The linear amounts must be calculated based on the layer height and filament diameter. So the layer height and filament diameter becomes "baked in" to the feed amounts. If you want to say double the layer height, you need to double ALL the Z feeds (assume they reset the feed position to 0). Same thing if your filament diameter is significantly off of the value in the script by some percent.