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MFettinger

Ultimaker 2 will not finish the print.

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I have had two long prints fail, one late and the second almost immediately, each time I removed the bowden tube pulled the filament out and I could see that it was melted at the end but flat. I reinserted the filament and just applied pressure until filament extruded. So why couldn't the Ultimaker do this? After the first fail I restarted the print and it failed again in about 60 minutes. Do I need to do some cleaning on the nozzle? This is only the third print through the nozzle and the first one worked perfectly. So far I have adjusted the tension on the feeder and that didn't change anything. Ideas?

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Here are screen captures of the settings used, but I can't get the little robot sample to print without the flow stopping midway through the print. Yes there is grind and yes I break it off and start fresh because the filament won't move past that point. I also have tightened and loosened that adjustment from as loose as it can go to as tight as it can go with no significant change in frustration or outcome. The printer worked for the first three weeks and nothing but failure since. Here are all the settings I know to find, I hope someone can shed some light on why we can't shove hot plastic through a little hole.>https://www.dropbox.com/s/j3lzqqw5c91p3w9/Basic%20Settings.tiff?dl=0

Expert%20Settings.tiff?dl=0

Advanced Settings.tiff[/media-thumb][/media-thumb]

 

Hi,

We need more information:

Print temperature

Speed settings

Layer heights

Maybe a picture of the failed print

How is the filament looking inside your feeder and bowden? Was it grinded? Did you cut the grinded part and reinsert fresh filament?

 

Advanced Settings.tiff

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Well I tried to add an image gallery and include images through shared dropbox links and nothing looks like it works so I'll try to share with Googlehttps://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B6Qt_aaNkZ8kbDV3YnBJVUIwSlE&usp=sharing

Here are screen captures of the settings used, but I can't get the little robot sample to print without the flow stopping midway through the print. Yes there is grind and yes I break it off and start fresh because the filament won't move past that point. I also have tightened and loosened that adjustment from as loose as it can go to as tight as it can go with no significant change in frustration or outcome. The printer worked for the first three weeks and nothing but failure since. Here are all the settings I know to find, I hope someone can shed some light on why we can't shove hot plastic through a little hole.>https://www.dropbox.com/s/j3lzqqw5c91p3w9/Basic%20Settings.tiff?dl=0Expert%20Settings.tiff?dl=0Advanced Settings.tiff[/media-thumb][/media-thumb]
Hi,We need more information:Print temperatureSpeed settingsLayer heightsMaybe a picture of the failed printHow is the filament looking inside your feeder and bowden? Was it grinded? Did you cut the grinded part and reinsert fresh filament?

Advanced Settings.tiff

Edited by Guest

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It would be nice if you could put the photos on your computer instead of google or drop box, then in the post choose the second to the last icon: "image gallery" then upload tab then just drag and drop the images.

This post may help other people for years to come yet you already moved your drop box photo - very rude to those poor people in the future. Whereas if you get the photos onto your hard drive it's easy to send them to ultimaker for "permanent" display. :)

Anyway we really need a photo of the print next.  Since you are new I would start out with .2mm layers instead of .06mm.  This is just to get a feel for things but if you lay it on that thick you will also have to slow it down - try 35mm.  Printing at 50mm/sec is too fast for .2mm layers but more importantly it lowers the quality which conflicts with the .06mm thing which implies you want higher quality.

But none of this advice helps you with your current problem - picture please.

Edited by Guest

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I would put 0.3mm for the first layer, you are using 0.16mm which is demanding a better level of the build plate.

How is the first layer looking? Do you hear the feeder clicking (skipping back)? If the first layer is too squished (build plate too close) extrusion is hard and filament might be grinded, this will then add friction in the bowden tube and likeley cause underextrusion for the rest of the print.

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GR5 I used the image gallery and all the pics are still in dropbox and Google drive, I didn't move a thing. I'll try it again.DSC_0820.thumb.JPG.54729ff6fb8ffa89c277c33ccd9b6f88.JPGDSC_0817.thumb.JPG.15a96536526aa4c278f6185dba232c7f.JPG

DSC_0815.thumb.JPG.53ae46d28342b2b138ea5c97b2efd286.JPG

I also discovered all kinds of problems that I didn't know I even had. I lost one of the Bowden tube clips and could not figure out where it went, and in trying to solve this problem I discovered it has slid down to the teflon coupler and was sometimes impeding the Bowden tube from seating in the coupler. Then when I took off the fans I noticed discoloration in the shape of the block on the shroud. When I installed the block I cranked it down so hard I though I was going to break the threads and yet it never fit under the shroud and even though I made sure the nozzle was center in the hole I think the whole block was touching. So it was over heating the filament in the tube above the hot hot end and then when it cooled the filament created the blockage that was causing the grinding. I could shove the filament through but the moment it did any amount of printing the clog would happen again. So I abandoned the Olssen block and installed the block it came with and then I changed the suggested settings. Getting ready to start, crossing fingers.

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You got a crappy block from Ultimaker I suspect. You need to tap the threads of the olsson block so that the steel coupler screws on all the way without any force.

I'll do it for free if you pay for postage ($2.60 each way). I can send you a mailer and you can drop it in your mail box. Contact me at thegr5store _at_ gmail.com.

I know this was a problem because I can see that your teflon part is touching the steel coupler in the photo above and it shouldn't be. It's easy to destroy either of the 2 parts when screwing them together so don't use more than fingers only for tightening the threads.

I also sell steel couplers that fit the block a little better - what happened is not so much that the olsson block you got was "bad" but that your steel coupler isn't fitting as well as when it was new and the tolerances are all too tight. I make sure everything is ever so slightly looser when I ship olsson blocks. I test every block I ship.

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Okay, this all took a new direction. I followed some of the wonderful advice given above and changed settings, I even did a factory reset. Nothing worked, just failed print after failed print until I finally got one to work. How did I do it, I changed filament from gray to black. It was the Ultimaker filament the whole time. The Gray is so brittle it was shattering in the Bowden tube and little bits were jamming the hot end and the pusher motor. It would be pushing filament up the tube then crack off a piece and wedge it just above the grinder wheel and that would be the end. So I took everything apart to get all the little gray cylinders out of the motor housing and hot end, switched to black filament and it printed the first try and hasn't failed once since. Both Filaments were ordered at the same time and opened at the same time in the same dry place at the same temp. The gray was just bad filament.

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Oh yeah. That's such a common problem in the last 6 months. Filament sitting in a warehouse for 6 months - sometimes it's not so flexible after a while.

Test your filament every month - bend it 90 degrees. It should not snap apart.

If it breaks in the bowden it will cause your print to fail every time as the break reaches the print head and half the time it gets stuck there.

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