Alternative nozzles

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

@lance-green: Have a look at the new Matchless nozzles for the V3 block. They (the nozzles) come in sizes up to 2mm.

[gr5 2,167]

>800 micron layer heights with the 0.8mm nozzle but had to print at 20mm a second,

That's .8 X .8 X 20 = 13mm^3/sec. Did you get heater error? If so you need to upgrade to a 35W heater (or larger). 13 cubics is about right - I've seen that limit with original equipment but change the feeder to bondtech, switch to block V3 and matchless 1mm nozzle and I've gotten 24mm^3/sec with not even slight underextrusion.

3dsolex claims very fast speeds with no underextrusions:

[lance-greene 7]

no heater error, it printed fine. what is the wattage of the UM2 heater cartridge? does ultimaker sell higher wattage ones? or do you have to buy aftermarket? if so, where can you get them from? I did have to do the print at max temp the UM2 could print at to do that 800 micron print though.

[gr5 2,167]

What country are you in, Lance? UM used to put 25W heaters in their printers (both UMO and UM2 series). The "plus" printers and the "plus" kit come with 35W heaters. If you aren't getting "heater error" then there is no reason to up the power. Most UM distributors sell parts including 35W heaters. 3dsolex in europe sells 25W, 35W, 40W, 50W. I am a 3dsolex distributor so I sell those 4 wattages also.

If you really want to print faster you should consider getting:

1) Bigger nozzles (3dsolex and distributors sell also 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm - even 2mm for 1.75mm filament, lol, that's a specialty nozzle!)

2) More powerful extruder (the plus or meduza is pretty good - almost double power. Bondtech even better).

3) Larger heater if/when you get "heater error".

[meduza 191]

I tried the Matchless 2mm block+nozzle, you have to print pretty slow to use it, since otherwise the plastic will not be melted enough (about 40mm3/s did not work out too well for me, the surfaces got all rough and ugly :/) I belive the main problem was in the melt zone length rather than in the feeder or heater. To me that 2mm nozzle is mostly a novelty, and i do still not think that i will be using anything over 1mm in practice.

I have a hard time seeing that table above are being correct btw, i have been printing 20+mm3/sec a lot of times with UM2+ printers with regular Olsson blocks (0.8mm nozzle) and it works just great... And this thing about "reaching the speed limit" is just weird, you can reach that limit easily with the regular UM2+, just slice something insanely high-resolution so there is millions of short lines and you will hog the processor at quite moderate speeds, but if you dont, the linear speed can easily reach 250mm/s, which would be crazy to print in.

Edited August 20, 2016 by Guest

[Torgeir 242]

Hi Folks,

 

Congratulation with a new "home" Ultimaker!  Much better Thanks.

 

This topic about nozzles is interesting as this is one of the most important little detail of the printer..

As I'm using the original (25W) heater and PT100 sensor from the UM2 standard heath block on a OB with a 0.4mm nozzle. I noted some difference between the old and the new. The feeding speed was not that impressive. -So I used the copper grease on the nozzle thread in order to improve the heath transfer from the heath block to the nozzle.  Also filled the two holes in the OB for the heater and the PT100 sensor. Then heated it up step by step, in order to clean off the volatile substances from the grease dripping of the block. Gradually increasing the temperature until 230 deg. Celsius. Also insulated the OB to avoid heath leak.  After this treatment, the whole thing really improved much.

I made a feeder test (the cylinder) and started printing at 205 deg. C. When the temp decreased 1 deg. C. during the printing, I increased the temp one more deg. C. At the very end of this print the heat block temp was 207 deg. Celsius.

 

I'm using a standard UM2 feeder, belt geared 1:2, -but the BIG difference here is that I'm driving the filament on the inside of the looped filament. NOT on the outside of the filament as Ultimaker do it -and this little difference make a BIG reduction of the friction! All filaments with memorized roll up, -will improve feeding when feed from inside the filament loop.

This mean to mirror the UM2 feeder and change rotation direction. 

 

Thanks.

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

[Torgeir 242]

 

Hi Folks,

 

Forgot to mention the benefits of using Copper Paste in this way.

 

1) Improving heat transfer in between the components in the heat block.

 

2) Prevent seizure of nozzle, heater, PT100 etc.

 

3) Also serve as a "secondary sealing" of nozzle and "cold junction nut" (the steel nut attached to the heath block and coupler).

 

If you use Copper paste this way, be careful and prevent adding this paste into the nozzle or inside the heat block.

 

Another interesting thing to note is that; the copper paste is the second best heat transfers compound commercially available. The best one is “Silver pasta grease”, however this one start to loose the thermal conductivity at around (120 – 150) deg. C. and Copper go to about 300 deg. C (Celsius). For seizure typically (1000-1100( deg. Celsius!

The thermal conductivity difference between those two is less than 5%. Price more than 10 times.

 

In the Ultimaker 2 assembly manual at page 50; it is stated that the copper paste grease is used here to prevent corrosion. But to me it looks like the heath transfer between the “cold junction nut” and the “cold block” (the radiator and the upper/lo aluminum squares), is a second reason for using Copper paste in here.

 

 

 

Attached page 50 from the Ultimaker 2 assembly manual:

 

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir.

 

 

 

[pavelr 1]

Tell me guys, UM3 nozzles - which standard they use? Is it MK8?

[dxp 23]

17 minutes ago, pavelr said:

UM3 nozzles - which standard they use? Is it MK8?

They use a different standard, seems to be M6x0.75 (fine)
You can check the dimensions here: https://dyzedesign.com/shop/nozzles/tungsten-carbide-nozzle/