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Giogiogio4

Using 1.75 mm Filament with the UM2+?

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Yes it prints really well.

The theory is that with 1.75 actually applies more pressure in the nozzle due to the smaller surface area. Also its meant to be more accurate on smaller prints as the feeder runs faster. But I haven't noticed any real improvement.

 

You tried the kit? How was the install?

Any tips or anything I should watch out for leveling wise and so on?

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Yes I have the kit.

The install is pretty easy. As you have the 2+ it makes it even easier. You just remove the fans, unscrew the heater block, remove the sensors and install the new block.

Height and leveling will remain the same so it will be all good.

I made up a Bowden tube to reduce the retracts but you can insert a 1.75mm bowden inside the 3mm one. you will just have to make stopper at the feeder end to stop the 1.75mm bowden moving back.

I havent used the UM2+ feeder so i'm not sure if there will be issues there but i'm sure any could be resolved.

Edited by Guest

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Yes I have the kit.

The install is pretty easy. As you have the 2+ it makes it even easier. You just remove the fans, unscrew the heater block, remove the sensors and install the new block.

Height and leveling will remain the same so it will be all good.

I made up a Bowden tube to reduce the retracts but you can insert a 1.75mm bowden inside the 3mm one. you will just have to make stopper at the feeder end to stop the 1.75mm bowden moving back.

I havent used the UM2+ feeder so i'm not sure if there will be issues there but i'm sure any could be resolved.

 

Yeah well I didn't have that luck. The holes on the new one are too small. I'm pretty sure I damaged my censor cables by trying to get just halfway in. Tried drilling them bigger as instructed with no luck.

And the nozzles are great, they are all marked .40 with tiny half cut off numbers on the other side. So I have to make sure I don't mix them up and stare at the tiny hole to see if they are correct.

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That's no good. Have you been able to get it to work? Is it just the PT100 censor that wont fit? or the heater as well?

 

Both. None of them make it all the way down the chambers. Instructions say to use a drill if they are too small. Have been doing that but then again I spent nearly $200 for this thing so hopefully they will send me one that actually fits correctly. Sent out an email.

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I'm not convinced 1.75mm is any better or worse.

The normal feeder can produce about 5kg of force on the filament so if you have a 1.75mm filament going into the head that's MUCH more pressure in the head - result: plus.

The knurled wheel pushing on the filament has a smaller surface area on the 1.75mm filament (because the filament is smaller!) so it can't push as hard so you won't get the full 5kg force. Result: minus.

I don't know which of the above 2 are stronger effects or if it all just cancels out.

1.75mm filament has to move farther to print the same volume so the stepper motor on the feeder has more precision. Result: plus - printing very very tiny frogs that fit on your fingernail will now be able to have more precision in the amount of plastic extruded. Note that this is only a plus for Labern who's average print is always getting lost in places like under his fingernails as his prints are almost too small to see :)

3mm bowden not designed for 1.75mm filament so it can get all wavy in there and result in uncontrolled extrusion. result: minus (most people report this is really not an issue).

Overall the only reason to get the kit is if you have hundreds or thousands of dollars of 1.75mm sitting around that you want to use up. Or if you are printing some bizarre boron carbide filament that only comes in 1.75mm (but as far as I can tell everything comes in 2.85/2.9mm).

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Oh - sorry about the ugly marked nozzles. "2" means .25, "6" means .6mm and so on. Ignore the ".4mm" labels. Carl at 3dsolex did a test run by hand himself. There are only about 30 of these hand made nozzles in the world at this time. I just don't sell enough 1.75mm nozzles to make it worth it for a big run (say 1000 nozzles).

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"The knurled wheel pushing on the filament has a smaller surface area on the 1.75mm filament (because the filament is smaller!) so it can't push as hard so you won't get the full 5kg force.  Result: minus."

Indeed, the Ultimaker bolt isn't ok for 1.75 but a MK7 works perfect.

"3mm bowden not designed for 1.75mm filament so it can get all wavy in there and result in uncontrolled extrusion.  result: minus (most people report this is really not an issue)."

Not an issue with a Bowden 6-2mm.

"Overall the only reason to get the kit is if you have hundreds or thousands of dollars of 1.75mm sitting around that you want to use up.  Or if you are printing some bizarre boron carbide filament that only comes in 1.75mm (but as far as I can tell everything comes in 2.85/2.9mm)"

My main reason, Print cooler at faster speeds with less drip.

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Oh - sorry about the ugly marked nozzles.  "2" means .25, "6" means .6mm and so on.  Ignore the ".4mm" labels.  Carl at 3dsolex did a test run by hand himself.  There are only about 30 of these hand made nozzles in the world at this time.  I just don't sell enough 1.75mm nozzles to make it worth it for a big run (say 1000 nozzles).

 

Looking at the ones I have..

I see a 6, a 2, a 4.0 and well an X which I assume is .15. I just look down the Nozzle and figure it out for the most part. I need to print some case to hold these lol

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I'm not convinced 1.75mm is any better or worse.

The normal feeder can produce about 5kg of force on the filament so if you have a 1.75mm filament going into the head that's MUCH more pressure in the head - result: plus.

The knurled wheel pushing on the filament has a smaller surface area on the 1.75mm filament (because the filament is smaller!) so it can't push as hard so you won't get the full 5kg force.  Result: minus.

I don't know which of the above 2 are stronger effects or if it all just cancels out.

1.75mm filament has to move farther to print the same volume so the stepper motor on the feeder has more precision.  Result: plus - printing very very tiny frogs that fit on your fingernail will now be able to have more precision in the amount of plastic extruded.  Note that this is only a plus for Labern who's average print is always getting lost in places like under his fingernails as his prints are almost too small to see :)

3mm bowden not designed for 1.75mm filament so it can get all wavy in there and result in uncontrolled extrusion.  result: minus (most people report this is really not an issue).

Overall the only reason to get the kit is if you have hundreds or thousands of dollars of 1.75mm sitting around that you want to use up.  Or if you are printing some bizarre boron carbide filament that only comes in 1.75mm (but as far as I can tell everything comes in 2.85/2.9mm).

 

I mainly got it because I have 14 roles of 1.75 sitting here. That and im more interested in the exotic stuff that seems to favor 1.75 more from what I see. Im not really looking to use it for a performance advantage. if I can get the same results as I did with the stock silver that came with it I will be happy.

Anyone recommend a good 1.75mm silver brand that resembles the Ultimaker Brand?

Also Im a cheap-ass lol. The $20 roll of Hatchbox compared to the $60 Ultimaker stuff kinda had me

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I decided to convert my UM2 with olsson block from 1,75mm what is the best way to advise me to follow to change the feeder tube and bowen?

 

I also think you have to change the feeder. Check out GR5 he has a kit for that.

Still requires a few printed parts.

 

Can I have the link?

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Get the conversion kit from 3dsolex (it's just an olsson block with smaller diameter hole and a teflon part with a smaller hole). Consider getting the block v3 while you are at it. You can use your existing nozzles with either conversion kit.

Your existing bowden will work fine but make sure you increase retraction just a bit - maybe 6mm.

For the feeder I strongly recommend you print the IRobertI feeder on youmagine (V6). This works better with thinner filament like 1.75mm.

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