The best and most useable surface ?

[Konky 0]

I've been using Scotch blue tape for a while. It works well is acceptable to apply and remove.

However it's not a perfect clean surface, it's a bit rough and sometimes blue color leaks into the print bottom.

I've been trying only glass but it's kinda a mess with the glue stick and it does not bond that well.

I've tried Kapton tape but using it was horrible. It's barely possible at all to put it on the glass without loads of bubbles and it gets damaged easily.

I wonder, what's the best to use ? Considering I mostly print on ABS.

[Labern 724]

Have you tried using ABS slurry?

You can print off some pucks in the same color as you print and use acetone to cover the bed in a thin slurry.

[Konky 0]

Yea I also used slurry but I was not very happy with it.

It's kinda messy

Well better than hair spray!

[mastory 35]

Not too many people talk about hair spray, but I have found it to be great on heated window glass. Good enough that because I tried it first, I have had no inclination to try ABS slurry or glue sticks. Just lightly spray a clean piece of glass, allow to dry, and heat to ~70c for PLA or ~100C for ABS. Parts release when the glass cools. Its simple. I don't understand why more people aren't using it.

[Konky 0]

I don't want to remove the glass with every print and wouldn't want to spray inside my printer.

That's the main reason;)

[tommyph1208 53]

I use PVA wood glue dissolved in water... I apply it to a glass plate on top of my alu-heatbed (don't know if you have a heatbed), and warm the bed to make the water vaporize.

This leaves a very thin and even layer of "glue-film"... It works really well for me with PLA, havn't tried ABS yet.

[gr5 1,108]

Glass is the latest innovation and is better than kapton tape or blue tape.

hair spray, glue stick, wood glue all have PVA in them. For hair spray use a tissue - spray that and then wipe it on with the tissue. This keeps PVA out of the rest of your printer.

Wood glue mixed with 10 parts water (doesn't have to be exact - it all dries away anyway) is the easiest - mix in a small jar and shake well. Use a paint brush to apply. Let it dry (dries faster with heated bed on). You can reuse this surface for many prints. You can add only a tablespoon of water and spread it around again or you can completely wash the glass and start over. Wash the glass once per month to remove dust and finger oils. Even if you only use the printer once per month.

I'm guessing your main problem is not glue related but you aren't squishing the bottom layer into the glass enough - you probably still have it leveled to the old tape height. Instead of running the stupid leveling procedure - just turn the 3 leveling screws CCW a half turn and when the print starts make sure the lines are pressed into the glass a bit.

[htbui 0]

I am using BuildTak 3D for the surface, it works very well and easy to take the print part out ( if you give extra room when you calibrate the bed). Below is the amazon link. 9'' x 10'' rectangle is the perfect size for the Ultimaker 2.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TY67LR6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00