Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
Pasaduino

Ultimaker Original Acrylic Homemade Build - Thermocouple/Temp/Initial Setup

Recommended Posts

Hello all, I've been gathering parts and building this Ultimaker Original since early December. I cut the acrylic parts on the laser at my college, and yes I regret making it out of acrylic but I did manage to assemble it and it looks sweet, just too bad I cant get it running. The major modifications it has is the e3d print head, and um2 feeder upgrade with the um1 adapter. When I connect to cura it recognizes the printer uploads new firmware, then when it goes to check nozzle temp it says the temp is 127, instead of something like 30. If I skip that step and go to check x, y, z axes it does not connect to printer. Just switched out the motherboard for one from folger tech, I bought the red thermocouple I pictured, thinking about buying the black one because that seems to be the issue, I have the genuine ultimaker original thermo sensor from fabrc8, looks like fabrc8 does not sell the thermocouple circuit board. Any thoughts would be nice I can provide more pics and info. Thank You

DSCN6325_zpshwgennpt.jpg

DSCN6326_zpsxdgrjp6w.jpg

DSCN6323_zpsi1n6yiyz.jpg

DSCN6324_zpsbjfyqt6a.jpg

prob_zps9uuqthmo.jpg

thermo_zpstelbybnw.jpg

fgb_zpsc5dw7089.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anybody know if you can just wire the temp sensor directly to the board and cut out the thermocouple? I remember seeing something about just hooking up the sensor directly to the signal and ground connection points on the motherboard connection. The more research I do there more I see how much of a nightmare temp sensing issues are with the umo. I can't believe I'm about to buy a prusa i3 kit because I can't get this thing running, this is so lame. I'm so close, I literally feel like I just have to change the right thing in configurations.h and it would work. But I don't know what to change.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In configurations.h it says 595 but it never says 597 as thermo option, this is my current firmware settings with a picture of the current board. Im sorry if this has already been answered 1000 times I've really been searching both the ultimaker and reprap forums. Printer connects to repetier-host but gives me the same 134 ish room temp reading and I cant move the steppers with the arrow controls.

curent_zpshxbospmx.jpg

edf_zpsmbhlshlj.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok guys thanks for walking me through that one, I got the temp sensor figured out, running a thermistor direct to the board I have room temp in cura. Now my question is, since I have the wrong 12v 40w for my e3d, can I order the dfrobot 19v 38w heater cartridge (will it be in the margin of error?) and is it a direct drop in replacement for the ultimaker original one?

http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=865&search=heater&description=true#.VtsD8cc0PzI

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

UMO heater hole is 4mm so make sure you buy a 4mm cartridge heater. These tend to cost more as it's hard to get much wattage in such a tiny package.

Wattage has purely to do with resistance and voltage. The formula is:

Wattage = Voltage squaed divided by resistance. Or W = v^2/R.

First calculate the R value - so for the 12V 40W that means it is r=v^2/W or 3.6 ohms. Wow. At 19V that's 100 Watts. That will melt itself in seconds even if it's inside an aluminum block. If you can get say a 9 ohm heater (40W at 19V or 16W at 12V) or a 14.4 ohm heater - or in between then that would work for a 19V system. Is your printer running off 19V?

There are many types of temp sensors: thermistors, thermocouples, PT100s. Most thermistors are the easiest to hook up to an arduino (because of the limited capabilites of arduino) but they usually are permanently wrecked if you go above around 150C to 200C so aren't appropriate for the head which typically prints at 200C to 240C. Thermocouples can handle much hotter than 250C so they are used for the UMO. The UMO+ uses PT100 which are made from platinum. Both thermocouples and PT100 need custom electronics. I don't know the diff between ad595 and ad597 but I'm guessing they are about the same. when using the thermocouples and the ad595 (or whatever it's called) the UMO expects exactly 5V=500C and 1V=100C and 0V=0C and so on linearly in between. without looking up the 2 parts I strongly suspect they both put out the same voltages for a given temperature.

Hooking anything directly to the temp sensor on UMO will either not give the right temp or will self destruct at temps of 200C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Checkout these great sites for building Marlin with various temp sensors:

http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

or

https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/

The first one has many more options but is an older version of Marlin. But on the plus side you can do a diff on Configuartion.h and see what it did (it outputs configuartion.h in addition to the hex file).

The second one has a much newer version of Marlin but has fewer options. But it seems to have plenty of temp sensor options.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • How to 3D print with reinforced engineering materials
      Ultimaker is hosting a webinar where we explain how you can achieve and maintain a high print success rate using these new reinforced engineering materials. Learn from Ultimaker's Product Manager of Materials and top chemical engineer Bart van As how you can take your 3D printing to that next level.
      • 0 replies
    • "Back To The Future" using Generative Design & Investment Casting
      Designing for light-weight parts is becoming more important, and I’m a firm believer in the need to produce lighter weight, less over-engineered parts for the future. This is for sustainability reasons because we need to be using less raw materials and, in things like transportation, it impacts the energy usage of the product during it’s service life.
        • Like
      • 12 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!