Umm. Short tip/long tip means that the z it's different? I think I see a z pattern there. At slow z speed or better put, when the z changes little... Umm
This it's just a gut felling (most probably wrong).
Do a z home. Then. Could you by using both hands under the bed push it up/release. If the bed moves up/down and does 'tack' then you have one of the z nuts that have playroom. My 3 umo+ beds, one had a big almost 1mm playroom and because the bearings where bad the bed wasn't able to keep moving the bed at the same rate.. My English isn't good enough to explain this properly.
Basically. Test if the bed does 'tack' when pushing it. Clean the z smooth rods by doing z gome, clean, release, home, clean, release (with something like a eyeglasses cleaner that don't leaves fibers).
Even better. Add half a kilo weight to the bed and print again. If it doesn't change, this isn't related.
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neotko 1,417
Since your machine it's doom from day one I would try to sell it and get a new one... Sorry but it's a curse?
Ok now seriusly, sell it...
Nah, now for real... Sell it...
Just kidding!
sell it.....
Ok now for real, back to your problem. SELL IT!
Stuff you need to check someday. Since your machine I think many of us know that you have review almost everything. Could you check the belts tension? UM2 inner belt tensioner IMO it's really really weak. Also, just to add more stuff that you might not have check. Do any of the pulleys rotate on a non circular way? Maybe you have a bad set of pulleys on the x/y. Also, even that um2 has that block spacers on the pulleys, have you check if the belts/shafts are on perfect alignment? Like with the umo's
Also, just another crazy idea, have you check if the sideblocks do wooble? Just in case...
Imagine this but on a um2 and move x/y by gcode.
Hopefully this error this time it's just bad luck, but omg. Your um2 it's cursed!
BTW very clean 18mm3/s test!
Also no changes on the slicer program?
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peggyb 171
you can check the outside of your nozzle, even the slightest scratch or burnt residue can influence the surface. And this is probably Colorfabb? Always feel that it prints more 'fat', less 'crisp' then other brands, but this may depend on the type of model, speed, temp, etc...
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Nicolinux 288
Thanks for the hints everyone.
@neotko: Sadly I can say "check" to everything you mentioned. But these things are very minimal.
@peggyb: Alright, I did another test and printed 5 times the same object (same .gcode file) but with different nozzles/filament. Btw. here is the .gcode file (prints at 30mm/s and takes around an hour to complete): Link
1. E3D 0.4 Nozzle, colorFabb Orange
2. Jet 0.4 Nozzle (long tip), colorFabb Orange
3. Jet 0.4 Nozzle (long tip), Faberdashery White
4. Jet 0.4 Nozzle (short tip), Faberdashery White
5. Jet 0.4 Nozzle (short tip), colorFabb Orange
I'd say the nozzle and filament makes a bit of a difference, but some "horizontal gaps" are still there.
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