Steps per mm

[rebekah_harper 60]

Hi guys and gals,

I need to know the steps per MM for all axis and feeder for the Ultimaker 2+

I use simplify3D and they don't have a profile for the plus so I've been using the std UM2 profile. All my prints seem to be 1mm smaller (using 0.25 nozzle)

The parts have a fantastic finish but size is an issue.

Any one able to help?

[neotko 1,417]

Just wondering what has to do the steps with using s3d??

Btw steps per mm might not have nothing to do with that since um2 machines use gt2 80steps for x/y.

The size difference can be just because filament contracts when cools down, some filaments more than others. Also there's a different in size for holes than for exteriors due filament deposition. Print some cubes for each filament/temp used and design profiles to compensate the design.

Edited March 18, 2016 by Guest

[rebekah_harper 60]

S3D printer profiles setup include steps per/MM

If the ratios have changed within the mechanism of the printer between 2 and 2+ then it would have an effect. I've never had a problem to this degree with ABS. I know it shrinks but never had this much.

[neotko 1,417]

No. S3D uses that for speed. S3D does nothing to steps. Steps for the motors are set by firmware or specific gcodes. You can change the speed to mm/s on the preferences menu of s3d.

[neotko 1,417]

Other different stuff it's if your short belts are not tight enough.

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

[neotko 1,417]

Just wondering. Are you using auto settings on s3d. And what's your extrusion ratio and extrusion width ?

[rebekah_harper 60]

Nope I don't use auto settings.

Basically it's extrusion multiplier is at 0.9

Width 0.25

Speed adjusted manually

[JohnK 30]

I'd say setting the extrusion multiplier to 1.0 will fix the problem

[neotko 1,417]

Indeed. But he need's that probably because he has 2.9 as filament diameter and not 2.85.

I always use the correct filament size and 1.0x extrusion multiplier.

[rebekah_harper 60]

So to compensate for the increase in size I've got to extrude more?

[neotko 1,417]

Well no. If you use 2.85 and tou se 2.9 you are over extruding but because you use a 0.9x multiplier it should be ok. To adjust that it's better just to use real numbers. Set multiplier to 1 and the filament size to the real size.

Also a img of the print could help.

[rebekah_harper 60]

I use a micrometer to measure the diameter each new reel, then set it to that.

[rebekah_harper 60]

I've used s3d for 2 years now on a Wanhao D4S and am pretty comfortable with the software.

Using an extrusion multiplier of 1.0 a measured filament diameter of 2.95mm

Extrusion width of 100%

I get this on a 20x20mm hollow cube.

You can see it mushrooming indicating over extrusion.

[neotko 1,417]

Over extrusion can happen also if you print toohot + too slow. Notice that because the bowden preassure the speed at what the filament can go out its different on each temp. So even when people use to fix that with flow, it's more complex.

What I did to get a base to work when I use a new filament it's to print cubes. And then tou can adjust the flow or find your good speed. It's a matter of trial error.

Btw the corners of that print look brow-ish, that the first sign of the temp being too hot or toohot+slow.

[neotko 1,417]

I see now. The speed base its 30mm/s, the area it's small and you need to telll us what temp you set. I see this it's a classic too hot too slow + small area. That makes the printed stuff to keep getting hot and hot, and going brown. I would print cooler to start. Also since its 0.25 nozzle it takes more time to print the same. Print faster or much cooler. The size variation can be simply because the heat makes it slurry and it expands more. ABS needs heat stability but also too much heat can ruin it.

Edited March 21, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Alternatively you could use a bit of fan, specially if it's all that small. You will need to play with the settings to find the perfect spot.