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Jay_Cee

Error Stopped: Z switch stuck

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Hi All,

Having a really frustrating fortnight with the UM2. Out of the blue my heated bed broke and UM sent me a replacement. I've finally changed everything over and the heated bed is working again and I was looking forward to printing....

However, when I went to set up a print I got a completely new error: ERROR STOPPED: Z switch stuck. I have followed advice found on UM2 and forum for this but when I press the Z switch with my finger it clicks + there isn't anything blocking the switch and the connection to the mainboard looks good. Any ideas of what else I can do to fix/troubleshoot?

I am making personalised chocolates with the help of my printer and this is making that very difficult so my offer in return for your support is personalised milk chocolate in a design of your choice if you can help me ou

Thanks!

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The limit switch at the bottom is triggered by the small screw at the back of the buildplate. After that the axis is backed off by 7mm. The error message means, that the endstop is still triggered.

If you have replaced the heated bed - is anything different with the "trigger-screw" now?

In addition: "connection looks good" means nothing...

Can you test the endstop switch with a continuity checker?

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Thanks Tinkergnome, I'm pretty sure its not an issue with the trigger screw because I didn't touch that bottom part of the buildplate and its not moving at all when I turn it down.

I measure the continuity and seem to be registering an electrical path when its off (open) and on (pressed down, with click). I also tried to measure resistance and it seemed it may have been the same in both positions, though I found it difficult to get a stable reading with my multimeter so not sure how much stock to put into that.

Anything else you recommend, I also did a factory reset and updated firmware.

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I found the below post on another thread and went through the different steps. After connecting to pronter face I was only able to move the X and Y axis, not the Z axis which apparently means its not a problem with the limit switch?

I then swapped the motors for the X and Z motors and was then able to move the Z axis, which according to below would mean a problem with the Z driver? Anything else I can do other than contact supporti?

Given I had to change the wiring for the heated bed replacement I wonder if there is anything else obvious that I might have inadvertently screwed up?

 

First install pronterface and hook up your computer to the printer through USB so you can get much more fine control over your printer:

http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

Pronterface is a wonderful utility that lets you control the printer so for example you can read back the limit switch settings or move a single axis by 1mm or whatever.

With power off, remove the bottom cover and disconnect the Z endstop cable to see if this is preventing Z axis from moving. Leave cover off and power up the machine and connect with pronterface.

With pronterface move all 3 axes 1mm (don't home Z axis). Start with X axis for practice - move it 1mm at a time. Then try Z axis. If it still won't work then it's not the limit switch. If it is now working then something is wrong with this switch - test it with a multimeter.

If it's not the switch and motor still does not move, swap the cables for the X and Z stepper motors. Try to move the Z axis by telling pronterface to move the X axis. If the Z axis now moves then the problem was with the Z driver. Explain this test to Ultimaker and ship the board back to them.

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So I followed the above and shared with ultimaker support who then sent me a replacement circuit board. I've installed that today but I am still getting the same error.

I either get Z switch stuck, if I manually move the buildplate such that the trigger screw is touching limit switch. Or Z switch broken if the plate is not in a position.

Within pronterface, disconnecting the Z end stop has not impact on ability to move Z axis (still doesn't move). The Z axis will only move if I switch the X and Z stepper motors as before with my old board. Which leaves me with two conclusions:

1) The above instruction does not cover all possibilities and it is something else that is causing my issue. Is is possible that the issue is actually with the Z switch despite that pronterface and ultimeter test?

2) The Z driver is broken on both circuit boards

I assume (1) is much more likely, so appreciate any other advice of things I can try to fix. FYI I did factory reset so I currently can't escape step 4/25 of the Ultimaker set up process. But I have updated to the latetst Cura firmware.

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For posterity: I somehow managed to disconnect the circuit board, only to reconnect the exact same one (rather than the new one).

Once I realised this and connected the new one, my printer is back up and running and working great. The problem was with the Z driver, which means that is advice is indeed golden.

 

First install pronterface and hook up your computer to the printer through USB so you can get much more fine control over your printer:

http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

Pronterface is a wonderful utility that lets you control the printer so for example you can read back the limit switch settings or move a single axis by 1mm or whatever.

With power off, remove the bottom cover and disconnect the Z endstop cable to see if this is preventing Z axis from moving. Leave cover off and power up the machine and connect with pronterface.

With pronterface move all 3 axes 1mm (don't home Z axis). Start with X axis for practice - move it 1mm at a time. Then try Z axis. If it still won't work then it's not the limit switch. If it is now working then something is wrong with this switch - test it with a multimeter.

If it's not the switch and motor still does not move, swap the cables for the X and Z stepper motors. Try to move the Z axis by telling pronterface to move the X axis. If the Z axis now moves then the problem was with the Z driver. Explain this test to Ultimaker and ship the board back to them.

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For posterity: I somehow managed to disconnect the circuit board, only to reconnect the exact same one (rather than the new one).

Once I realised this and connected the new one, my printer is back up and running and working great. The problem was with the Z driver, which means that is advice is indeed golden.

 

Glad you got this sorted... couldn't help noticing that you didn't get much help or support from the community though???

I've got the same problem and after reading through the forum it seems to be a common one and usually down to the main circuit board.

Can you tell me if your machine was still under it's 12 month guarantee/warranty please?

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He got help up until we were totally confused and had no answers.

Artiz did you check for dirt/pla chunks holding the switch down? Does pronterface let you move the Z? If you swap X and Z cables does the Z move but not the X? Do you have a UM2?

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He got help up until we were totally confused and had no answers.

Artiz did you check for dirt/pla chunks holding the switch down?  Does pronterface let you move the Z?  If you swap X and Z cables does the Z move but not the X?  Do you have a UM2?

 

Same as Jay-Cee no Z movement with Pronterface - and yes UM2.

So what help did he/she get gr5... he appeared to answer his own questions to me?

Us starters need all the help we can get no matter how confusing our problems are. Of course we're going to repeat many of the same problems others have had in the past and we may often sound stupid but much better for us all to just keep on repeating over & over the same advice even if it is irritating... we're all in this together after all is said & done.

Edited by Guest

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For anyone else with this problem the goto> advice is download 'Pronterface' (GUI host of Printrun) as Jay-Cee did above and have a fiddle around. Printrun is a 'must have' regarding free, open source, 3D printing software... any time spent 'innit' will not be wasted... besides who wants to go out and buy a new multimeter/tester?

The STOP error's regarding the Z switch in particular are not reliable or even specific on the UM2. It's probably a given to check for correct switch clicking/movement/position and/or blockage but also important to have a good look around and clean anyway. If error persists you can then try installing the latest firmware and/or factory reset too.

Next step is Printrun which allows you to move any axis and discover whether they are indeed moveable... plus many other invaluable functions of course. If you can move it then change the switch... you don't need to remove the Z motor either to replace the Z switch by the way... just remove the bottom/back 4 screws and then use a flat head screw driver to slightly & carefully lever the back edge away from the Z motor so that you can remove and then replace the wires correctly down behind the Z motor. Not a bad idea to have a set of switches 'in stock' either.

Repeat advice from gr5 (above)... "If it's not the switch and motor still does not move, swap the cables for the X and Z stepper motors. Try to move the Z axis by telling pronterface to move the X axis. If the Z axis now moves then the problem was with the Z driver. Explain this test to Ultimaker and ship the board back to them."

Hope this helps...

Edited by Guest
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So what help did he/she get gr5... he appeared to answer his own questions to me?

 

He got to the root cause by finding something that was already posted on the forum before, so in effect he did get help from the community, he just didn't get it "spoon fed" as it were. And I'm not sure how anyone would ever have been able to guess that he accidentally re-installed the same board again. Like gr5 said, I think people were really confused and didn't know what to say.

A lot of people spend a LOT of their own time helping people here, I lost count on how many hours I've spent here over the years (I will freely admit I haven't spent as much time as I want/should the past few months though). It's a bit annoying when people complain about not getting help immediately when this is all done on a voluntary basis and often times the answer can be found by searching previous posts.

Yes, it's frustrating when it takes a bit longer to get a reply but you have to remember that we're only human and sometimes we simply don't have a clear answer to give.

Sorry about the rant... one of those days.

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So what help did he/she get gr5... he appeared to answer his own questions to me?

 

He got to the root cause by finding something that was already posted on the forum before, so in effect he did get help from the community, he just didn't get it "spoon fed" as it were. And I'm not sure how anyone would ever have been able to guess that he accidentally re-installed the same board again. Like gr5 said, I think people were really confused and didn't know what to say.

A lot of people spend a LOT of their own time helping people here, I lost count on how many hours I've spent here over the years (I will freely admit I haven't spent as much time as I want/should the past few months though). It's a bit annoying when people complain about not getting help immediately when this is all done on a voluntary basis and often times the answer can be found by searching previous posts.

Yes, it's frustrating when it takes a bit longer to get a reply but you have to remember that we're only human and sometimes we simply don't have a clear answer to give.

Sorry about the rant... one of those days.

 

'spoon fed' is the crux here...

This technology & forum should be about 'everyone' adding their 'bit' and my pointing out that he didn't get much help from the community was exactly that... 'everyone' not you, gr5 (or tinkergnome) in particular... you both (all) provide excellent advice so your 'rant' is indeed a rant and therefore disappointingly taken out of context as well as personally.

For me we are all here to 'spoon feed' each other... why not?

If it helps it helps... as long as we all continue to do it.

I've heard that 'spoon feeding' nonsense elsewhere on forums and I find it irritating and superior... when you are a starter/beginner/newbie etc... you are indeed a baby and need a bit of spoon feeding/comfort/love... nothing wrong with that... besides it encourages you in your turn to continue 'spoon feeding' other starters thereby alleviating the burden from more experienced contributors.

Some forum posters may even be children so we don't need barriers here just repeat or refer (link)... it takes seconds.

respect & regards

Edited by Guest

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Thanks Artiz for the great summary and welcome to the forum as this is the first I've noticed you (or maybe you changed your icon recently - sorry if I'm noticing you again). I hope you help more people in the future.

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So Artiz - when you said you had the "same problem" I was skeptical. But after reading your summary I trust your debugging more - does it still seem to be the same? If so it's probably the same solution (new PCB). But I guess you know that.

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So Artiz - when you said you had the "same problem" I was skeptical.  But after reading your summary I trust your debugging more - does it still seem to be the same?  If so it's probably the same solution (new PCB).  But I guess you know that.

 

It also took me a while to find your original advice/post which Jay-Cee quoted because it's called 'SLOW SUPPORT' and doesn't come to the top of forum searches regarding Z switch errors.

Your advice there is indeed 'golden' as Jay-Cee said in his post. Messing around trying to work out if the switch is faulty manually is both frustrating and irritating to say the least.

Having then replaced the switch and still having the error is even more depressing still.

So yes I do now know that it's a circuit board failure but I could have got there a whole lot quicker... however, I wouldn't now have the foundations for my very own 3D printer farm after buying my second UM2 (used) for an extremely reasonable price... would I?

Much thanks for your advice, help and kind comments here gr5... invaluable!

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For posterity: I somehow managed to disconnect the circuit board, only to reconnect the exact same one (rather than the new one).

Once I realised this and connected the new one, my printer is back up and running and working great. The problem was with the Z driver, which means that is advice is indeed golden.

 

Glad you got this sorted... couldn't help noticing that you didn't get much help or support from the community though???

I've got the same problem and after reading through the forum it seems to be a common one and usually down to the main circuit board.

Can you tell me if your machine was still under it's 12 month guarantee/warranty please?

 

Hi Artiz - just to let you know that this was within my warranty and I got a free replacement - sorry for the slow reply.

As an aside to moderators, I think it would be good to automatically opt in forum posters to receive emails if their threads have had a comment/response. I would have definitely supported(the little I can offer) in this instance if I received that - despite the best of intentions I only visit the forum if I myself have a problem. Having spent a lot of time in online communities like this in other pursuits (an ebay business, professional gaming, poker) this forum seems overly reliant on a few people. I do think this is a natural trend happening with a lot of online communities but I do think you could engage the network effect more.

Edit: I just checked to edit my settings:

(1) Even though my settings suggest I should receive a weekly summary of relevant forum activity - I don't receive that. My email is correct and its not going to junk. Maybe check the CRM system.

(2) I would consider changing the default for 'topic and posts' and 'private messages' to be immediately instead of weekly summaries. I think this is a common approach and few will be offended.

Edited by Guest
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Hi Jay-Cee... thanks for reply... I believe replies/comments to threads are automatically sent/opted in so probably something else went wrong somewhere... safe to assume your UM2 is doing fine then... mines printing like a champ now.

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