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Heated bed on UM2GO and in general


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Posted · Heated bed on UM2GO and in general

I'm installing my heated bed upgrade today and I'm wondering about the power supply and juggling that has to be done between heater and bed.

It looks like a pretty standard regulated 24v 5a supply. I can get a regulated supply that will do about double the current.

Is this too much current for the PCB or onboard regulators?

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    Posted · Heated bed on UM2GO and in general

    I'm installing my heated bed upgrade today and I'm wondering about the power supply and juggling that has to be done between heater and bed.

    It looks like a pretty standard regulated 24v 5a supply.  I can get a regulated supply that will do about double the current.

    Is this too much current for the PCB or onboard regulators?

     

    UM2go uses the same 2.1.x boards, they can go up to 10A as far as I know.

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    Posted (edited) · Heated bed on UM2GO and in general

    The UM circuit boards can handle a million watts - it will only draw what it needs.  It's the other end - the heater - that you should worry about in this case.  The heater I sell is only 60 watts but the same board works fine with 100 watt heaters so no worries.  So with my 60W heated bed kit you probably want about 60W of additional power going to the um2go or 2 amps more power than the existing um2go power supply.  

    This all assumes you can find some firmware somewhere that allows you to use the heated bed with the um2go.  The only firmware I know of is my custom firmware that limits power to the bed and nozzle so you can use the existing um2go power brick. But someone might create for you a special version.  Maybe tinkerGnome.  Anyway if you get such a special firmware please let me know so I can give it to other people who ask for it.

    I mean really my kit with my custom firmware works great and heats up faster than the UM2.  But if you want even faster, yes you could get a more powerful power supply and try to locate the appropriate firmware.

    Edited by Guest
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    Posted · Heated bed on UM2GO and in general

    The UM circuit boards can handle a million watts

     

    tumblr_m7uc14DbtF1qh5bybo1_400.gif

    Joke a side. I though that the limit was set by this little thingy that says 10A:

    5a331daf3fc93_Capturadepantalla2016-05-29alas18_09_54.thumb.png.ea5047b3fde9f90d3d27997dbd8af8ee.png

    5a331daf3fc93_Capturadepantalla2016-05-29alas18_09_54.thumb.png.ea5047b3fde9f90d3d27997dbd8af8ee.png

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    Posted · Heated bed on UM2GO and in general

    The point is that the power supply supplies a certain voltage (24V) and it *tries* to keep it at 24V no matter how little the board draws. So for example if the board draws zero amps the power supply won't try to supply 200W. The wattage on the supply is the MAX it supplies. It doesn't hurt to use an extra large supply. So getting a power supply that can supply more power than needed will work fine.

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    Posted · Heated bed on UM2GO and in general

    Thanks for the replies.

    I'm looking over the repo on github and it looks pretty straightforward. I'll probably use your firmware to start and if I get impatient and replace the power brick I'll just fork and open a PR if I do anything interesting with it.

    The kit has been sitting by my printer since Friday and I haven't had time to install it yet. Hopefully this weekend!

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    Posted · Heated bed on UM2GO and in general

    Completed my upgrade!. @gr5, below are some more photos you can use on your tutorial. I printed a clip and taped it to the side to use as a wire guide. I'll wrap those wires and use some proper supports later.

    I also used another cord to use as a guide and installed the replacement heater in the cable wrap. I'll keep the other as a spare.

    I learned a lot along the way. First thing I should have done is remove the filament. I wound up with broken filament in the feeder and what I now know is the PTFE coupler got clogged with PLA. Neither was too bad but I think the guide is written for someone that already knows how to build one of these from scratch.

    Very happy with the shiny bottoms of my PLA and how much easier it is to release prints. ABS filament is pending available stock.

    I'm having a problem with the first layer in one x,y region where it seems to bump something but just on the skirt and I'll probably go down the rabbit hole on that one next week. But the few prints I've done have been really nice. Got a case to go on my pi zero and more prints planned for the week.

    Here's the album: https://goo.gl/photos/h6kDn3MDKGkg3mqR6

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    Posted · Heated bed on UM2GO and in general

    Thanks for the photos. I pulled as much of the HB wiring into the area below the printer and as little as possible in the main printing area. It make things much neater.

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    Posted · Heated bed on UM2GO and in general

    what is the stock psu watt rating for the go?

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    Posted · Heated bed on UM2GO and in general

    120W but if you are using the power budget feature - it only accounts for the heaters so for the power budget I think we use something like 60W?  I forget but the default power budget value for the um2go is a good value to use (I'm talking about the tinkerMarlin firmware which has this power budget feature so you can have a heated bed on a um2go and not over tax the power supply).

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    Posted · Heated bed on UM2GO and in general
    8 hours ago, gr5 said:

    120W but if you are using the power budget feature - it only accounts for the heaters so for the power budget I think we use something like 60W?  I forget but the default power budget value for the um2go is a good value to use (I'm talking about the tinkerMarlin firmware which has this power budget feature so you can have a heated bed on a um2go and not over tax the power supply).

    I was thinking about using an openbuild mini heated bed for a go I recently bought but hasn't arrived yet it is rated at 106 watts at 24v so I wanted to see what size psu I should look at to replace the stock one.

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    Posted · Heated bed on UM2GO and in general

    FYI I sell heated beds for the um2go.

     

    the power supply would 100% fail if you turned the 106 W supply on full time but the tinkerGnome firmware for UM2go can handle this as it has power management features that can limit the heated bed to 60% on-time (60% X 106W is about 60W).  The firmware turns the mosfet switch on and off about 20-100 times per second.  I've experimented with this and the power brick doesn't care if you go way over the max power if it's for just 0.1 seconds.  It's the average power over a full second or two.

     

    So you should be fine.  Set the power management such that the budget is 60W, and then tell it that the bed is 106W and the nozzle heater is 25W (or whatever it actually is - UM2go original equipment is 25W heater for the nozzle).  The power management feature will take care of the rest.  If you don't do this, worst case, is that the power brick will shut down and then power back up after a second or so and your printer will reboot.  I think the 100W will be fine until the moment the servos start moving.

     

    With a 106W heated bed you will have much more current going through the mosfet but the same board is used in the um2go and the um2 which has a 100W heated bed.  So you are fine with that issue as well.

     

    Tinkergnome firmware is wonderful for many reasons.  anyway you can get it here:

    https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

     

    I've met him personally.  Great guy.  He is also somewhat active on this forum as @tinkergnome

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    Posted · Heated bed on UM2GO and in general

    After a week with no posts I drop topics so I'm leaving this one.  If you reply to me, please send me a direct message with a link back to this topic.

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