Thanks!
I'll definitely shoot a video. IT will be a slow upload.. I'm in Uganda. :-)
How do I get out of the first run wizard?
Thanks!
I'll definitely shoot a video. IT will be a slow upload.. I'm in Uganda. :-)
How do I get out of the first run wizard?
Here's the video! Note that the sound happens well before we hit the switch. So I don't think it has anything to do with the XY switch. Thanks!
If you 'shake' the hotend does it make noise from the linear bearings?
Does the noise happen only on one direction? Make a video with the machine off and move the hotend x/y and both but pushing the slideblocks, not the hotend.
Here's the next video.. Thanks!
Can you check if the x/y rods (the central ones) are touching/scratching the frame?
Do you fell that the noise comes from the sides?
If not. Try to pinpoint it. Maybe it's just a cable pushing something, a shaft scratching or a belt rubbing.
My first thoughts:
- Something is scratching the case, as neotko says.
- Or something is stuck between moving parts (slide blocks or wheels) and the case.
- Or the rods and slide bearings are so terribly dry that they can't move at all, and start making a screeching sound. Like in cheap cheap computer fans, with worn-out bearings. But here on a lower frequency. If the rods feel totally dry, try gently lubricating them (but don't pour oil on the rods; do the oil on a tissue, and use that to genlty wipe the rods).
- Or some debris got into a bearing and almost blocks it, or a broken bearing.
- Or a severe mis-alignment if something came loose or if the printer got dropped or hit during transport.
Try borrowing a stethoscope (like doctors use to listen to your breath) to find out where it comes from exactly. Car dealers and repair shops also use this to locate weird engine sounds (I saw one using it on my car once). Or try making one yourself from PVC tubes, it might work.
A stethoscope! that's a great idea! I always though what to use to find my umo+ weird sounds (I just fix them by sticking my ear to every part and it takes a lot of time to point the origin sometimes).
Hi,
This sound very much like a belt is trying to climb off a pulley. This might happen if a shaft is not locked by a pulley at the side where the shaft has to escape the body if you like to remove them. Check that the shafts do not move along shaft, but only can turn. This might happen if one of the pulley is loose on the shaft, the pulley that lock the shaft and preventing the shaft to move out of the hole.
Be especially aware of the shaft with the double pulley.
Just my 5 p.
Good luck.
Hi everyone! Well, problem solved! As it turns out, there was a manufacturing "defect" / "oops".
Here's what I did. I loosened the drive pulley for the motor, then moved the printhead. It moved fine. That told me it wasn't a pulley problem, or anything in the printhead, etc. That pointed to the motor, so I removed the side panel and removed the motor, and it wouldn't turn easily by hand. My heart sunk because I won't be able to get motors very easily. But I noticed that the wires for the motor were pinned by the motor below:
It seems that when the Go was assembled, this wire got pinned in there by mistake. The wires were beginning to fray:
When I separated the wires, the motor spun freely by hand! So I repaired the wires, and put everything together and now I'm back in action! Two good prints so far and everything looks great!
Thanks for the help everyone!
Hi,
Great job in finding this "partial" short!
This is a good sign of the quality of the driver used in the late Ultimaker printers.
If this was a standard "direct" driver, it would be fried...
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DidierKlein 729
Hi,
From what i understand it's on of the motor that is struggling somehow?
You can probably troubleshoot it by doing this:
Put your head (machine turned off) to the back, right side make sure it clicks the limit switch (with the rod hitting the switch on the left panel).
The go to maintenance -> Avanced -> Home Head.
Do the same with the head in front right corner, the back sliding block is hitting the limit switch that is on the back panel.
This should identify the motor at least or why it's blocking.
Maybe a video would help if you have the opportunity to shoot one?
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