neotko
If you don't mind me asking. What are the pros and cons to this upgrade? I found your files on Youmagine and was instantly intrigued. I keep looking at the kit trying to figure out what i'm missing. It tickles the tinker itch very much. If I am assuming properly this will allow better prints vs our original + print head. Just trying to figure out how.
Thanks for this tutorial and the files. It looks amazing!
Edited by GuestPT100: I ordered an E3D PT100 Amplifier board for the PT100 Conversion, and set the firmware to "PT100 Circuit from Ultimaker 2 Mainboard" This tested well. The wires on the PT100 are quite short, so I'm mounting the Amplifier board close to the end of the cable and extending a cable to it.
Hi @thevoltmaster,
sorry for maybe a stupid question - but: you hooked the PT100 to the amplifiere board and then... which cables do you mean need to be extended? the ones from the amplifier to the UMO sensor cable/connector? sorry, did'nt caught this...
Edited by Guestneotko
If you don't mind me asking. What are the pros and cons to this upgrade? I found your files on Youmagine and was instantly intrigued. I keep looking at the kit trying to figure out what i'm missing. It tickles the tinker itch very much. If I am assuming properly this will allow better prints vs our original + print head. Just trying to figure out how.
Thanks for this tutorial and the files. It looks amazing!
Cons I can't think of any. The fans are better, specially MY fans =) that move x3 more air than um2+ ones... But back to the point. It can print much more hours for each coupler (TFM can last 500-2000h vs the UMO coupler that can't past the 200 print hours).
The UM2+ hotend (olsson block) controls the heat much better than UM2, but also it need's like 5-10C more to extrude the same without pushing way too much (could grind filament).
Also nozzle swap, is fast, clean and repeatable. On the umo's hotend I had I broke a total of 3 aluminium blocks by doing 14-20 nozzle swaps. The aluminium block of umo isn't ready to have constant swaps and the thread inside ends damaged quite fast over time. Also is quite easy to not do it right and get a leak (on umo).
Print quality is better, because the better heat control (smaller area = less filament hot = less stringing + more controlled print).
Is also a quite easy mod to do, you get extra shafts that you can't use (unless you use my BeyondSlideblocks and NewZ mod and you wan't to fully mod your printer so it has more print area like um2... (but I haven't finished that mod due lack of time).
neotko, please, can you give me a link on your fans? Thank you in advance.
neotko, please, can you give me a link on your fans? Thank you in advance.
I use the fans I used for the fan upgrade on umo http://www.mouser.es/ProductDetail/ebm-papst/414H/?qs=fklqa858EeufPrSTtMfcMA%3D%3D 414H
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20524-ultimaker-original-dual-fan-upgrade-contributed-by-neotko
And I use this fancap
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/umo-fancap-for-um2-hotend-with-40x40x20-24v-fans
oje, 18,83 € per one fan :(
Just chiming in that I've been very happy installing this mod on my Ultimaker original (non plus). Most of my test prints came out really well although I'm still chasing some skipped steps because of my recent switch to TMC2100 drivers. Its amazing the quality i'm getting out of my 4 year old machine compared to newer machines my friends have gotten on the cheap
Can you post where you got your replacement board from? My UMO has been degrading in print quality for about a year now and Im hoping this upgrade kit can solve the problem once and for all!
Hi Neotko,
I finally found time to install this upgrade. Works really well.
I have an UMO+ with the 2.1.4 revision PCB so I used the experimental branch of the custom firmware builder. https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/experimental/
Fans
- Fan kickstart: 200 ms (krijgt 200ms het volledige vermogen)
- Fan minimum PWM: 70 (min Fan speed 70/255)
- Fast PWM: enable
- Hot-end fan: enable
Mechanical
- Invert first Extruder (0) direction: enable
The only minor problem I had was the green wire of the Fan that was to short to connect to the board, so I extended it (the yellow was fine).
I also used the metal plate for the feeder assembly like instructed for the UM2+ upgrade. I should probably reprint the part and make it a little thinner but I measured it and the gears were engaging perfectly.
Test prints are perfect everything works fine
Thanks to you and amedee for the instructions
1
Great @LievenGrauls !
Glad it works on 2.1.4 boards!
The cable was too short umm. Just wondering does the black snake cover goes along the bowden or separated? I ask because I had to leave them apart to make all reach the board. Juat asking for future users.
Thanks!!
I have an UMO+ with the 2.1.4 revision PCB so I used the experimental branch of the custom firmware builder. https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/experimental/
Just FYI, I recommend to use the 'default' (stable) builder, not the 'experimental' one unless you really want/need to experiment 
The experimental version is an incubator for new features which may or may not be really stable. Today there is no new feature on the experimental side so experimental and stable are exactly the same, but it is not always the case.
1
The bowden tube and black snake ( braided sleeve) are connected. As the yellow wire was long enough, I also verified that the green wire was't stuck in the sleeve as there are some connectors inside the sleeve.
@amedee thanks for the tip 
Here some pictures of the install.
3
Hello neotko,
I have a question. I have a UMO and i want too replace the main bord for a newer type (V2.1.4). Because of the different positions of the switch and plugins i wanted too replace the right and bottom panels also. Do you have the right DXF files so i can laser/engrave the parts and replace them?
greetings Ed
Hello neotko,
I have a question. I have a UMO and i want too replace the main bord for a newer type (V2.1.4). Because of the different positions of the switch and plugins i wanted too replace the right and bottom panels also. Do you have the right DXF files so i can laser/engrave the parts and replace them?
greetings Ed
Hi, I just saw your PM, will answer here, I been very very very busy lately so I write much less.
To fit the um2 2.1.4 board I just did mark the holes with a pen and drilled the bottom. The most important part is to check the length of the cables so everything reach the board (specially the pt100 and 5v fan are shorter)
The DXF bottom of the umo+ could work as guide, but since umo and umo+ are different it won't be much help.
For the Sidepanel, to plug the PSU and access the power on/off I just used the Left umo+ panel to see how big where the holes and with a hacksaw I did cut the wood. The wood is very easy to drill/cut (use gloves and any other protective tool etc etc).
The umo+ DXF are on the github are HORRIBLY, and is a mess to find the right panels because they also list the UMO, not umo+ ones. To get the right ones check this folder: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker-Original-Plus/tree/master/laser%20files%20Ultimaker%20Original%20%2B
Btw if your 2.1.4 board isn't from 'official' sources, remember to print this Spacers, china cloned boards don't have it and you need to have some distance from the wood frame to the board. Or buy some Nylon Spacers (more temp resistance)
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/printed-spacers-for-ultimaker-2-pcb
Also about your question about Fan cooling the board, no the 2.1.4 doesn't need a fan. But In my experience on past summers, I had to add heatsink to the stepper chips to avoid problems when the room gets at 30C. Since then I never had a problem with them and also my board doesn't show the typical 'brown' discoloration that is typical on the um2 boards over time.
Edited by GuestThe real question is: "why would you want to do that?"
I have both (an UMO and an UMO+) and I don't see any advantage of having this 2.1.x board. The old one is rock solid; no SMD : so you can easily fix any problem; change drivers, ... And the new one is really expensive in comparision.
For a real upgrade I would rather buy a Duet3D...
Edited by Guest
1
Hello neotko,
I have a question. I have a UMO and i want too replace the main bord for a newer type (V2.1.4). Because of the different positions of the switch and plugins i wanted too replace the right and bottom panels also. Do you have the right DXF files so i can laser/engrave the parts and replace them?
greetings Ed
Hi, I just saw your PM, will answer here, I been very very very busy lately so I write much less.
To fit the um2 2.1.4 board I just did mark the holes with a pen and drilled the bottom. The most important part is to check the length of the cables so everything reach the board (specially the pt100 and 5v fan are shorter)
The DXF bottom of the umo+ could work as guide, but since umo and umo+ are different it won't be much help.
For the Sidepanel, to plug the PSU and access the power on/off I just used the Left umo+ panel to see how big where the holes and with a hacksaw I did cut the wood. The wood is very easy to drill/cut (use gloves and any other protective tool etc etc).
The umo+ DXF are on the github are HORRIBLY, and is a mess to find the right panels because they also list the UMO, not umo+ ones. To get the right ones check this folder: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker-Original-Plus/tree/master/laser%20files%20Ultimaker%20Original%20%2B
Btw if your 2.1.4 board isn't from 'official' sources, remember to print this Spacers, china cloned boards don't have it and you need to have some distance from the wood frame to the board. Or buy some Nylon Spacers (more temp resistance)
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/printed-spacers-for-ultimaker-2-pcb
Also about your question about Fan cooling the board, no the 2.1.4 doesn't need a fan. But In my experience on past summers, I had to add heatsink to the stepper chips to avoid problems when the room gets at 30C. Since then I never had a problem with them and also my board doesn't show the typical 'brown' discoloration that is typical on the um2 boards over time.
Hi neotko,
Thks for the great feedback and my compliments for the acurate desribsions from the upgrade.
greetings,Ed
The real question is: "why would you want to do that?"
I have both (an UMO and an UMO+) and I don't see any advantage of having this 2.1.x board. The old one is rock solid; no SMD : so you can easily fix any problem; change drivers, ... And the new one is really expensive in comparision.
For a real upgrade I would rather buy a Duet3D...
Hi amadee
I allready bought the board. Maybe in the future i will do the "duet3D" upgrade. thanks anymay for youre replah
greetings,
Ed
The real question is: "why would you want to do that?"
I have both (an UMO and an UMO+) and I don't see any advantage of having this 2.1.x board. The old one is rock solid; no SMD : so you can easily fix any problem; change drivers, ... And the new one is really expensive in comparision.
For a real upgrade I would rather buy a Duet3D...
Hi amadee
I allready bought the board. Maybe in the future i will do the "duet3D" upgrade. thanks anymay for youre replah
greetings,
Ed
Indeed @amedee is right
I even forgot to talk about it XD I have now one printer with the Duet3D and it does work wonderfully better than the um2.1.4 board. It just do everything and MOAR
List of Advantages of the Duet3D
- Modern processor, not retro ATMEGA gameboy brain-style
- Can do 256 micro-stepping, or for lazy guys 16 microstepp with 256 interpolation when printing slow (automagical)
- Is close to noiseless. And that's a big plus with a UMO frame where everything reverberates. Is so noiseless I can leave the printer at night without disturbing my little son.
- It has wifi or ethernet (2 versions) so you can actually control the machine remotely from the pc/phone, upload new gcodes, relaunch last prints and control everything on the machine.
- It has gcode macros, you can reshape almost any process. Atm IMO it could be nice if they add Variables to the macros to make it a proper simple programming language, but that might come later since the devs also like the idea.
- Can use up to 7 extruders, 2 with the default board and 5 more with the extra expansion board. So it you like modding, this won't die of old fast.
- Um2.1.4 new boards only come with 4 steppers so they can only use 1 extruder.
- No Zebra stripes, moire, noise from steppers missing microsteps.
Disadvantages
- You need to cut the PSU cables, use ferrules and recrimp the Endstops and the 5v fan (of the um2 hotend for example). (they provide the ferrules and crimps when you buy the board, so you just need a crimp tool)
- You need some degree of understanding to install and setup the machine.
And about the understanding, I'm making a guide to show how to do the basic setup on a umo+ (with um2 hotend but is the same for umo+) and a guide for um2 users.
I have already all the gcode setup for the machine for umo+ and um2 ready on two folders, photos of the key parts. So basically I'm making a basic manual of how to port a umo+ or a um2 to Duet3D board. I was hopping to be able to do it past weekend but time time time... Hopefully next weekend I'll be able to advance on the text since I also want to finish a video explaning how to use s3d supports for complex objects... To much to-do-be-do-be-does
Edited by Guest
3
Hi Neotko,
When i change the Estep setting too +369.0 and go printing i have the problem off under-extruding. Is that setting for 1,75 filament or did you determend it yourself. The prev setting was +836.0
greetings Ed
Hi Neotko,
When i change the Estep setting too +369.0 and go printing i have the problem off under-extruding. Is that setting for 1,75 filament or did you determend it yourself. The prev setting was +836.0
greetings Ed
Afaik that's the esteps of the um2+
Check bowden, everything is in place right or check the feeder tension indicator is in the middle. It should work.
Hi Neotko,
When i change the Estep setting too +369.0 and go printing i have the problem off under-extruding. Is that setting for 1,75 filament or did you determend it yourself. The prev setting was +836.0
greetings Ed
Afaik that's the esteps of the um2+
Check bowden, everything is in place right or check the feeder tension indicator is in the middle. It should work.
Checkt it all and everyting was ok. Uploaded the firmware like discreibt on the builder from Amadee. E steps are set on +569.0 and then the extrusion is ok
1
Hey there @Neotko. Thanks so much for these great instructions. I was just wondering one thing, would be be OK to drill out the frame and mount the extruder on the back panel in the same position as the UM2+. The panels are 1mm different in thickness, and the pinion on the extruder can be moved on the shaft by 1mm so the gears mesh exactly. What do you think?
Greg
Hey thx for this Tutorial.
In the near Future i want to change the Hot End of my Umo+ to the olson Block from the Um2+ but first i want to change the wodden Slider Blocks.
Where can I get the Twister Blocks from the Pictures or can I build in the Um2 Slider Blocks with the Um2 belts and the Um2 Pulleys does anybody knows this will fit in the Umo+ ?
Thx
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neotko 1,417
Oh yeah is very important. It will clog & short the TFM life span (probably both things).
Just make a custom firmware with the /experimental version and click on the 2.1.4 board part. If this is confusing check the youmagine, I explained to someone how and where to go just yesterday.
Edited by GuestLink to post
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