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hot-end isolator cannot screw onto the thread of the brass Olsson Block

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While assembling the Olsson block I found that I was only able to screw the block by about 3 revolutions onto the hot end Isolator.

I then cleaned out the inside of of the isolator to remove any plastic.

I still could not screw the isolator to Olsson block.

So I heated the isolator and block with a hot air blower and tryed again while the two were hot, I was then able to screw it in with a lot of muscle and huge pliers about half way but not all the way.

This meant that when I assemble everything back the block makes contact with the outside fan holder which I think is the reason I get temperature errors when I print.

My question is, are there more than one size available for either the block or isolator?

Would greatly appreciate any help and ideas as currently I cannot use my UM2 because of the problem.

Stephen.

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The question is where you bought both Olsson block and stainless steel coupler from. If both are from an 'official' source such as any 3dSolex or Ultimaker reseller it could be that an Ultimaker stainless steel coupler could be deformed due to its thin walls. In this case replacing the stainless steel coupler is the solution.

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The question is where you bought both Olsson block and stainless steel coupler from. If both are from an 'official' source such as any 3dSolex or Ultimaker reseller it could be that an Ultimaker stainless steel coupler could be deformed due to its thin walls. In this case replacing the stainless steel coupler is the solution.

 

The Isolator is the original that came with my Ultimaker 2.

I bought the Olsson block from Create3D.

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Unfortunately some of the older Olsson blocks have a tight fit and some of the UM steel couplers also and if you add slight corrosion you just can't get those together.  All the Olsson blocks sold through me in USA are sent through the die (look up tap & die if you don't know what this is) one more time so they don't bind up like this.

so you can either spend $10 or so for a die and fix your own or you can send the Olsson block back and demand one that has a looser fit.  Or you can buy your steel coupler from 3dsolex or create3D.  Those always fit.

In other words if you get the Olsson block and steel couplers built by 3dsolex they always fit.  But if your steel coupler is from Ultimaker then *sometimes* it's a tight fit.  Much too tight.

Incidentally you should have heated only the round steel coupler but not the block.  You want the coupler to expand but not the block (metals expand when hot). And use a drop of wd40 also.

Edited by Guest

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Unfortunately some of the older Olsson blocks have a tight fit and some of the UM steel couplers also and if you add slight corrosion you just can't get those together.  All the Olsson blocks sold through me in USA are sent through the die (look up tap & die if you don't know what this is) one more time so they don't bind up like this.

so you can either spend $10 or so for a die and fix your own or you can send the Olsson block back and demand one that has a looser fit.  Or you can buy your steel coupler from 3dsolex or create3D.  Those always fit.

In other words if you get the Olsson block and steel couplers built by 3dsolex they always fit.  But if your steel coupler is from Ultimaker then *sometimes* it's a tight fit.  Much too tight.

Incidentally you should have heated only the round steel coupler but not the block.  You want the coupler to expand but not the block (metals expand when hot).  And use a drop of wd40 also.

 

I have now ordered a steel coupler from 3dslex.

Incidentally I only heated the coupler, but I must admit the idea of applying WD40 as well did not occur to me at the time, good idea since it removes rust as well...Let me see what stories the new steel coupler has when it arrives and progress accordingly.

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