Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

ColorFabb HT


vanias78
 Share

Recommended Posts

Posted · ColorFabb HT

Last days tried to print with this high temperature filaments as i need something to can handle my cars temperature without melting. Unfortunatlelly the prints from this material comes out very sensitive and break very easy. Maybe the problem is i use 260C and maybe need more (280c). Does anyone know away to print right with this material or a way to use more than 260 on my ultimaker 2 extended + ?

I print with recomended from colorfabb settings (except temperature use 260 and they need 250-280)

Thank you.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    I print with HT on 265C, but I have used 260C and it wasn't more brittle – but had to print at a slightly slower speed.

    To make really tough parts I increase the flow, it really benefits the HT. However increased flow will also sometimes give excess material, so be careful with the adjustments especially if your objects should look good. Also like XT and nGen, material sticking to the nozzle becomes brown and makes ugly spots on light colors. For even tougher parts increasing to 100% infill makes them almost indestructable, and thicker perimeters are also helping.

    Even if you print only at 260C I think having the extra i2k beneath the teflon is a must, just remember that for the 2+ models you would need either a spring or a custom part as the part above the teflon is only one size and will not fit with the stock teflon and i2k at the same time.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    • 3 weeks later...
    Posted (edited) · ColorFabb HT

    You might want to look into I2K (3dsolex) and tinkergnome firmware. Google time!

     

    @Tinkergnome firmware does not allow to set the maximum temperature. But you can edit the firmware source according to your needs. I extended the range to 290°C, which leaves my TF2K equipped hotend on the safe side.

    Edited by Guest
    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · ColorFabb HT

    Some results of a 270°C-250°C overhang test with HT:

    20160720_ColorfabbHT_Overhangtest1.thumb.jpg.a8b576b8c25656455dd3b45b3d0ababe.jpg

    20160720_ColorfabbHT_Overhangtest2.thumb.jpg.22313fed91b486288599dc2620b3efde.jpg

    20160720_ColorfabbHT_Overhangtest3.thumb.jpg.a1eed2dd1d769dce22a9d013a644dd9f.jpg

    20160720_ColorfabbHT_Overhangtest4.thumb.jpg.82bf876215125c70dc038bf320152003.jpg

    I also did a test 280°C-260°C but except more stringing there is no difference. I used 280°C for the first layer and 15% fans.

    Bed temperature was at 105°C, which resulted in an adhesion loss on the first print, so I used PVA glue water mix which made it stuck - well - like glued.

    20160720_ColorfabbHT_Overhangtest1.thumb.jpg.a8b576b8c25656455dd3b45b3d0ababe.jpg

    20160720_ColorfabbHT_Overhangtest2.thumb.jpg.22313fed91b486288599dc2620b3efde.jpg

    20160720_ColorfabbHT_Overhangtest3.thumb.jpg.a1eed2dd1d769dce22a9d013a644dd9f.jpg

    20160720_ColorfabbHT_Overhangtest4.thumb.jpg.82bf876215125c70dc038bf320152003.jpg

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    It has a glass transition temperature of 100°C. So if you don't put it under a lens: yes.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    Hopefully someone will still be around to answer this.

     

    How do the layers come out, it's hard to see on the pictures.

     

    I noticed Nylon seems very smooth, hows this compared to Nylon?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    I have an ultimaker 2 with a Bondtech upgrade feeder and the olsen block, and I am not an expert, but this is one of the main materials I print with.  In my opinion, once you get the settings where they need to be, it will make some very beautiful and durable parts.  

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT
    1 hour ago, Ace1992 said:

    once you get the settings where they need to be

     

    Would you like to share your settings here?

    Since there are always problems with the XT and HT filament, this would be very helpful for many users.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    Ace,

     

    Is the HT flexible at all? In comparison to PETG and Nylon?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    Colorfabb HT is like XT or UM CPU or PETG, it is more less the same. The HT has the advantage that it has a higher glass transition temperature, but is more prone to warping compared to XT.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    Okay, so it's as flexible as PETG, I can work with that. 

     

    Does it warp below it's HDT or only during printing?

     

    I have a heated bed and an enclosed printer with doors to minimize drafts so hopefully that helps.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    Sorry for the late reply.

     

    I am still messing with it, but currently I am printing with the following settings:

     

    235 degrees hotend

    .4mm nozzle and .1mm layer height

    110 degrees heated bed (enclosed) I have a 120v heated bed, and I allow it to heat up the chamber for 10-15min before I print

    40mm/s print speed on everything (except the first layer, that is just the default)

    103% flow of the material

    60% cooling

    1mm roof on support surfaces

    Z direction .15mm distance between the support interface and the part. Z axis is the priority

     

    Support material is needed everywhere, because it tends to warp pretty easily if it is not touch anything.  Also, I have noticed that this material is very susceptible to overheating.  If you get it too hot, it will become very brittle.  

     

    I am actually going to try to turn down the print temp to 230 tonight, to see what it does.  My last part were really brittle. 

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    Here are some sample pictures.  I am still getting some ringing, and to me it looks like they are still printing a little too hot.  That is why I am going to turn it down a bit tonight. 

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    I can't see the pictures, are you able to upload them directly to the site?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    IMG-5178.thumb.jpg.13c08b3e82f44e028eed29a2a250c0b3.jpg

    IMG-5179.jpg

    IMG-5180.jpg

    IMG-5177.jpg

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    Wow, that does look very similar to Nylon.

     

    What is the layer height you are using here?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    Sorry about that.  Can you see them now?

     

    As you can see in some of the pictures, there is some noticeable ringing around the holes.  I have been able to eliminate that by cooling the prints down a little.  

     

    I started another print last night, and printed at 230, I will take some pictures of that tonight and post them.  

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    It is at .1mm

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    YEs, I did see them. Very nice. How is the smoothness of the surfaces across the layer?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    Its not bad.  I can make PLA smoother, but overall it is pretty smooth.  

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    Cool. Well, I got a roll of the clear stuff coming so I'll give it a go.

     

    What temp you print at?

    Bed temp?

    Bed adhesion? (Blue tape, glass, do you use glue?)

    Z offset?

     

    Thank you.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ColorFabb HT

    For Colorfabb HT you can use the CPE+ settings for a good starting point.

    For bed adhesion you should go with something stronger, like Dimafix, 3DLac or UM adhesion sheets.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
     Share

    • Our picks

      • New here? Get ahead with a free onboarding course
        Hi,
         
        Often getting started is the most difficult part of any process. A good start sets you up for success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere. That is why we have a onboarding course ready for
        Ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle, Ultimaker S5, Ultimaker S3 Ultimaker 2+ Connect.   
        They're ready for you on the Ultimaker Academy platform. All you need to do to gain access is to register your product to gain free access. 
        Ready? Register your product here in just 60 seconds.
          • Like
        • 8 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...