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gudo

PIB polybenzimidazole Isolator Coupler

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It looks really smooth! What do you think is in a filament that makes it work better without a primer if you want to paint it?

 

Probably Poo! Hahahaha

No, for real, maybe? it's fully compostable in 2 years without shredding and can survive 110C like a champ.

Esit. Sorry it needs shreadding to decompose. It's willowflex the one that can be compostable without it.

Edited by Guest

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Hi @gudo,

Reading your posts got me thinking about the possibility of replacing the PEEK and PTFE parts of my UMO by just one PBI part with an integrated cooling profile similar to your hotend...

Do you think this might work?

Would be interesting to gain some temp for e.g. PC printing with the UMO...

Btw. Where have you sourced the PBI?

Greetings from Graz!

Edited by Guest

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Hi Graz !

I have no experience of UMO

however I think it is possible to adapt a similar PBI print head that I installed on my UM2 Ext on UMO.

my "All in 1" PBI printhead works really well, it is combined with a Bondtech feeder, close to 200 hours now, mainly PLA print, without any issue , I never experienced with the UM feeder

  It seems that the use of PBI requires a feeder with high torque, there have more friction than with PTFE, but no risk of sticking or deformation.

Neotko is a great specialist of the UMO and he'll be the best advice , he tested a 1.75mm PBI coupler , he'll be able to give some feedback.

I can help you to redesign a complete adaptation if necessary

PBI source : http://www.plasticstockist.com/Duratron-PBI.aspx

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Sorry for the late answer too busy this days :D

@drayson I didn't actually used it on a UMO, but on a UMO+ with UM2+ hotend. So is basically the same as using it on um2+

The only problem I see of doing a PIB for UMO is that you need to design something that replaces the PEEK around the hotbarrel & the PTFE coupler. It could be a really big one PIB piece.

Ofc that would be a bruteforce approach. Something more elegant would be to make the PEEK on Aluminium and replace the PTFE coupler with one made on PIB. It would probably need active cooling for the aluminium. But again, is overcomplicating things, also not cheap.

It would be cheaper to just get a um2 hotend and use a PIB coupler or just use a less expensive (but that won't last that long) TFM + I2K, to use the hotend at 300C. Will it last forever? No, on PIB it looks like it would certainly last A LOT since it can handle 300C continuous.

So I don't know to what extend is worth going the umo modding route for a PIB, the problem is that the PEEK must be replaced since it starts to degrade at 260C, and I seen with my own eyes how the bottom of the barrel starts to deform at 260C+ after 5-10h of use, not enough to cause troubles but it won't last much.

Other possibility is that making the PEEK on PIB should suffice to cut the heat from arriving on the PTFE coupler, probably with a fan and another design to keep the tip near the ptfe cool, but... I don't know :D

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Hi to all

It's been a while since I have not posted, here just a few new PBI print head.

It now makes some tens and tens of hours that the PBI head works without problems

No special maintenance on that level.

One thing is certain ! is that I'll have trouble going back on classic hot ends uses!

Some pics of my final PBI print head, as I am an uncondional user of Biofila PLATEC which is very suitable for functional prototyping, most parts are printed with this material.

20161027_165558.thumb.jpg.21ed336f1edc298082a520e6da30f0a4.jpg

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some print work samples

20161008_191301.thumb.jpg.18f7be4e7752e9129d746327d14bb2fe.jpg

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50mm bridge lenght

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Yoda with a ton of retractations

 

20161012_131545.thumb.jpg.b5d2205eeab094aaadf44b4b8a43c295.jpg

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20161027_165656.thumb.jpg.10b86c14918ab4a2285307c5f8bba992.jpg

20161027_165819.thumb.jpg.7d984f74038ef2804050343c53b494d0.jpg

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20161027_134218.thumb.jpg.8c6fc8dfcf42f9a76b885db4c8930967.jpg

20161027_134146.thumb.jpg.cdfff486b081180f020d6dd828fc847d.jpg

20161027_170100.thumb.jpg.9d91d737dd29355194874813f8e8a90c.jpg

20161012_131545.thumb.jpg.b5d2205eeab094aaadf44b4b8a43c295.jpg

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20161012_171552.thumb.jpg.d80d3ccae7fa7863896bb679bceaa264.jpg

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That looks really good, it seems like it can handle retractions better than the original printhead?

How long is the pbi-part and which outter-diameter did you choose? Do you feel like it can be made shorter without the loss of functionality?

 

Hi MTG

Thanks !

The part was machined from a19mm dia. x 37mm lenght PBI rod, test said that 12 mm rod would be large enough.

My goal was to took the PBI properties opportunity for that the coupler /heat break could serve as a hot end support also, the all in 1 part.

A well functionality depends more on a appropriate lenght of the heat zone/warm zone/cold zone which is included in the total of the minimum 37mm, dictated by the need to had enough height under the XY shafts for the all parts head assembly housing around the hot end.

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It looks really smooth! What do you think is in a filament that makes it work better without a primer if you want to paint it?

 

Btw I been digging into what is pla-tec since noone says what really has. And it seems that they use Potato starch as main component. Also there a company in usa that sells APLA that matches almost all the features of pla-tec, except that you actually need to 'bake' the printed part to get the matte finish and 140C temp resistant and after digging they use potatos. Probably the starch has better temp resistance than corn starch (common PLA).

How is plastic made of potato starch?

Super boring video:

 

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I would need Ø20mm x 0,5-1m...

 

One meter?? Whow...

You can order it in UK but please note that it is available in 305mm rods which costs app. 350€ incl. tax and shipping...

Also thinking of ordering but my financial officer (:p ) said "no"... (up to now)....

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Design.thumb.PNG.4ef3348f3a56f6b988b391b6fcda084d.PNG

I have made a design for the UM2 for dual extrusion which uses nozzle lift and a cover which prevents oozing. I have changed it so far that you don't need an stepper motor anymore, the mechanism is controlled by a lever on the back side. For the tool change, the printhead does a special move to throw the lever. Then the nozzle lifts and gets covered.

I'm that far that the complete mechanism fits in the printhead and is ready for a prototype.

That mod does not require any build space in x,y but 5 mm in z. The only problem to solve is the heat brake.

I can't use the standard design as the nozzle gets lifted and I don't want to waste space in z-direction. At first I thought stainless steel would be okay, but I understood now that the heat zone should be as small as possible. Then I thought PBI is good, but I think thats too pricey.

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