ultimaker original hot-end question

[derek-bosch 1]

I've heard some difference of opinion on exactly how to tighten the hot-end of an Ultimaker Original.

The assembly manual says to have the nozzle flush with the aluminum block, and that the heat pipe above the block doesn't need to be flush, as long as both are tight.

I've also heard the opposite, tightening the brass pipe so that it is flush, then tightening the nozzle.

Which one is best? I'm still experiencing some extrusion issues, and want to get this right!

-Derek

[derek-bosch 1]

anyone?

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Depends if you want to exchange nozzles. If you do, then screwing the nozzle the whole way in is maybe not a very good idea...

[tommyph1208 55]

I don't know about the ultimaker hotend (replaced mine ages ago), but some instructions for other hotends, eg. the ones from E3D, instructs you to screw the nozzle all the way flush with the heatblock, and then back out like half a turn... Then screw the heatbreak in from the other side but dont over tighten.

Now you heat up the hotend and then tighten the nozzle up against the heatbreak while the metal is hot to form a good seal.

[neotko 1,417]

Screw the barrel with peek assembled. Insert nozzle until both touch BUT the nozzle should be less than a nail out (just a little bit out. So, when all assembled (except the fan cap so you have room to play with. Set the heat to 200-250C (I always use 200) and withthe propper tools, hot the block and tight the nozzle a bit (don't overdo or alublock screws will suffer and nozzle could break)

I always use this video as visual reference

 

[derek-bosch 1]

thanks, guys!

[gr5 2,167]

The most important thing is that the nozzle is touching the "pipe" (the long threaded piece). So that you don't have filament escaping where the 2 meet. If you are going to be changing nozzles all the time and they are even slightly different threaded lengths then you need to have the nozzle not touching the block.