Jump to content

ultimaker original hot-end question


Recommended Posts

Posted · ultimaker original hot-end question

I've heard some difference of opinion on exactly how to tighten the hot-end of an Ultimaker Original.

The assembly manual says to have the nozzle flush with the aluminum block, and that the heat pipe above the block doesn't need to be flush, as long as both are tight.

I've also heard the opposite, tightening the brass pipe so that it is flush, then tightening the nozzle.

Which one is best? I'm still experiencing some extrusion issues, and want to get this right!

-Derek

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ultimaker original hot-end question

    I don't know about the ultimaker hotend (replaced mine ages ago), but some instructions for other hotends, eg. the ones from E3D, instructs you to screw the nozzle all the way flush with the heatblock, and then back out like half a turn... Then screw the heatbreak in from the other side but dont over tighten.

    Now you heat up the hotend and then tighten the nozzle up against the heatbreak while the metal is hot to form a good seal.

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ultimaker original hot-end question

    Screw the barrel with peek assembled. Insert nozzle until both touch BUT the nozzle should be less than a nail out (just a little bit out. So, when all assembled (except the fan cap so you have room to play with. Set the heat to 200-250C (I always use 200) and withthe propper tools, hot the block and tight the nozzle a bit (don't overdo or alublock screws will suffer and nozzle could break)

    I always use this video as visual reference

     

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · ultimaker original hot-end question

    The most important thing is that the nozzle is touching the "pipe" (the long threaded piece). So that you don't have filament escaping where the 2 meet. If you are going to be changing nozzles all the time and they are even slightly different threaded lengths then you need to have the nozzle not touching the block.

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • UltiMaker Cura 5.8 beta released
        Another Cura release has arrived and in this 5.8 beta release, the focus is on improving Z seams, as well as completing support for the full Method series of printers by introducing a profile for the UltiMaker Method.
          • Like
        • 1 reply
      • Introducing the UltiMaker Factor 4
        We are happy to announce the next evolution in the UltiMaker 3D printer lineup: the UltiMaker Factor 4 industrial-grade 3D printer, designed to take manufacturing to new levels of efficiency and reliability. Factor 4 is an end-to-end 3D printing solution for light industrial applications
          • Thanks
          • Like
        • 3 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...